Disclaimer: I bought this in October 2019 at JDS´official site at full price (+ import fees yay) so I have used this for almost 2 years now.
Disclaimer 2: My opinion is that amps do make some very slight differences in the tonality but it is very minor and if you want to change the tonality of the transducer it is better to change the transducer itself or to change the tips/foams/pads (iem, earbud, headphones). While the DAC does NOT make any difference at all.
Price: 100 usd (I paid closer to 200 usd thanks to import fees + VAT but will judge this based on its MSRP at 100 usd)
Specifications:
Frequency Response, 20Hz-20kHz +/- 0.01dB
THD+N, 1kHz, 32 Ω 0.0008%
THD+N, 20Hz-20kHz, 32 Ω 0.0012%
IMD CCIF 19/20kHz 32 Ω 0.0002%
IMD SMPTE 32Ω 0.0005%
Noise, A-Weighted -114 dBu
Crosstalk @ 150 Ω -87 dB
Input Impedance 10k Ω
Output Impedance 0.1 Ω
Channel Balance < 0.6 dB
Max Output @ 600Ω 125mW (8.68 VRMS)
Max Output @ 150Ω 502 mW (8.66 VRMS)
Max Output @ 32Ω 1 Watt (5.66 VRMS)
Accessories:
None
Build: Entirely plastic build that isn’t really that well made. If you press on the top plate, it bends inwards. The 6.35mm output port is on the front to the left and gain (low/high) control and input button is on the front right. The volume wheel is on the front center and has a white LED behind it as a backlight. While the backside has the RCA in/outputs, 3.5mm input and the power input.
Useability: Being an amp only, it is pretty straightforward in its use. Just connect it to a separate DAC and a transducer to the 6.35mm output port. But be aware that if you have it on the top of a stack stand like the Topping KGU12 (the one I use) it is too lightweight to actually completely touch the surface. Which means that it is tilting a bit upwards. Another problem that a stack setup might give you is that you need 2 hands to insert/remove transducers, because if you don’t hold the amp itself you won’t be able to connect anything since it moves too much.
Also be aware that the volume wheel is not that sturdy, so you can actually remove the cap itself pretty easily (fortunately it reattaches without problems).
You can have powered speakers connected to it as a preamp which is what I do and you can then control the volume via the volume wheel on the amp instead of using the volume wheel on the speakers (you can of course still use the volume wheel on the speakers).
The atom can be powered on 24/7 without issues. This is how I have been using it since I got it, with it being turned off during power surges only. There is also little to no heat being generated while it is on and pretty lukewarm while it is in use.
Setup: PC -> Topping E10 -> JDS Ol switch -> JDS Atom
Transducer:
Tin Hifi P1 (high-gain volume around 9 o'clock, EQ, JVC Spiral dot++, cable A9 4.4mm): Low-gain is at 12 o'clock while high-gain is around 9. Power is not a problem here in terms of volume but bass isn’t as tight as on the Asgard 3 which to me means the Atom is not capable of driving the P1 at its full potential.
Audiosense T800 (low-gain, volume around 7 o'clock, Elecom EHP-CAP20 tips + DIY Foam mod, cable A6 4.4mm): Here is where the Atom struggles, with a sensitive iem like the T800. I only have the option of having too little volume (and channel imbalance at that) or be right at where I want it to be but the slightest adjustment will increase it too much. You basically do not have any volume control here. Fortunately, no hiss here.
K´s Samsara K300 (low-gain, volume around 8-9 o'clock, full foams, stock 4.4mm cable): Volume control is not a problem here nor does it lack in quality.
Koss KPH30i (low-gain, volume around 8-9 o'clock, unmodded, stock 3.5mm cable): Volume control is not a problem here nor does it lack in quality.
Synergy: The Atom works better with higher impedance transducers than it does with sensitive/low-impedance transducers. IEMs especially aren’t really a good match with the Atom as in most cases, they have too little volume control.
Comparisons:
Ibasso DX160: The Atom has a similar output power (needs around the same volume, percentage wise when paired with the Tin Hifi P1 + EQ). But the DX160 is a better amp due to it working with everything from iems, earbuds to headphones. While the Atom struggles a lot with iems, especially sensitive ones due to the very poor volume control (either too little volume or way too much). The Atoms tonality is a bright-neutral one, so it’s the opposite of the DX160.
Schiit Asgard 3: The Asgard 3 has a lot more output power and the volume control is also better but since it is a volume wheel instead of showing the volume in terms of numbers in the DX160. It is similar in that regard. The Asgard 3 is neutral so it isn’t as warm as the DX160, which also means that it retains the transducers original tonality better without coloring it too much.
Tonality: It’s a bright-neutral amp that is on the more analytical side. Not the most versatile amp if the transducer is already borderline too bright for you, since this might push it beyond the edge of what you can handle in terms of brightness.
Conclusion: If you are using the Atom with non-sensitive/low-impedance transducers then this is a very good amp at a pretty affordable price, that you can also have powered on 24/7. But if you are intending to use it with mostly iems (sensitive and low-impedance) then I cannot recommend this to you. Thanks for reading.
Disclaimer 2: My opinion is that amps do make some very slight differences in the tonality but it is very minor and if you want to change the tonality of the transducer it is better to change the transducer itself or to change the tips/foams/pads (iem, earbud, headphones). While the DAC does NOT make any difference at all.
Price: 100 usd (I paid closer to 200 usd thanks to import fees + VAT but will judge this based on its MSRP at 100 usd)
Specifications:
Frequency Response, 20Hz-20kHz +/- 0.01dB
THD+N, 1kHz, 32 Ω 0.0008%
THD+N, 20Hz-20kHz, 32 Ω 0.0012%
IMD CCIF 19/20kHz 32 Ω 0.0002%
IMD SMPTE 32Ω 0.0005%
Noise, A-Weighted -114 dBu
Crosstalk @ 150 Ω -87 dB
Input Impedance 10k Ω
Output Impedance 0.1 Ω
Channel Balance < 0.6 dB
Max Output @ 600Ω 125mW (8.68 VRMS)
Max Output @ 150Ω 502 mW (8.66 VRMS)
Max Output @ 32Ω 1 Watt (5.66 VRMS)
Accessories:
None
Build: Entirely plastic build that isn’t really that well made. If you press on the top plate, it bends inwards. The 6.35mm output port is on the front to the left and gain (low/high) control and input button is on the front right. The volume wheel is on the front center and has a white LED behind it as a backlight. While the backside has the RCA in/outputs, 3.5mm input and the power input.
Useability: Being an amp only, it is pretty straightforward in its use. Just connect it to a separate DAC and a transducer to the 6.35mm output port. But be aware that if you have it on the top of a stack stand like the Topping KGU12 (the one I use) it is too lightweight to actually completely touch the surface. Which means that it is tilting a bit upwards. Another problem that a stack setup might give you is that you need 2 hands to insert/remove transducers, because if you don’t hold the amp itself you won’t be able to connect anything since it moves too much.
Also be aware that the volume wheel is not that sturdy, so you can actually remove the cap itself pretty easily (fortunately it reattaches without problems).
You can have powered speakers connected to it as a preamp which is what I do and you can then control the volume via the volume wheel on the amp instead of using the volume wheel on the speakers (you can of course still use the volume wheel on the speakers).
The atom can be powered on 24/7 without issues. This is how I have been using it since I got it, with it being turned off during power surges only. There is also little to no heat being generated while it is on and pretty lukewarm while it is in use.
Setup: PC -> Topping E10 -> JDS Ol switch -> JDS Atom
Transducer:
Tin Hifi P1 (high-gain volume around 9 o'clock, EQ, JVC Spiral dot++, cable A9 4.4mm): Low-gain is at 12 o'clock while high-gain is around 9. Power is not a problem here in terms of volume but bass isn’t as tight as on the Asgard 3 which to me means the Atom is not capable of driving the P1 at its full potential.
Audiosense T800 (low-gain, volume around 7 o'clock, Elecom EHP-CAP20 tips + DIY Foam mod, cable A6 4.4mm): Here is where the Atom struggles, with a sensitive iem like the T800. I only have the option of having too little volume (and channel imbalance at that) or be right at where I want it to be but the slightest adjustment will increase it too much. You basically do not have any volume control here. Fortunately, no hiss here.
K´s Samsara K300 (low-gain, volume around 8-9 o'clock, full foams, stock 4.4mm cable): Volume control is not a problem here nor does it lack in quality.
Koss KPH30i (low-gain, volume around 8-9 o'clock, unmodded, stock 3.5mm cable): Volume control is not a problem here nor does it lack in quality.
Synergy: The Atom works better with higher impedance transducers than it does with sensitive/low-impedance transducers. IEMs especially aren’t really a good match with the Atom as in most cases, they have too little volume control.
Comparisons:
Ibasso DX160: The Atom has a similar output power (needs around the same volume, percentage wise when paired with the Tin Hifi P1 + EQ). But the DX160 is a better amp due to it working with everything from iems, earbuds to headphones. While the Atom struggles a lot with iems, especially sensitive ones due to the very poor volume control (either too little volume or way too much). The Atoms tonality is a bright-neutral one, so it’s the opposite of the DX160.
Schiit Asgard 3: The Asgard 3 has a lot more output power and the volume control is also better but since it is a volume wheel instead of showing the volume in terms of numbers in the DX160. It is similar in that regard. The Asgard 3 is neutral so it isn’t as warm as the DX160, which also means that it retains the transducers original tonality better without coloring it too much.
Tonality: It’s a bright-neutral amp that is on the more analytical side. Not the most versatile amp if the transducer is already borderline too bright for you, since this might push it beyond the edge of what you can handle in terms of brightness.
Conclusion: If you are using the Atom with non-sensitive/low-impedance transducers then this is a very good amp at a pretty affordable price, that you can also have powered on 24/7. But if you are intending to use it with mostly iems (sensitive and low-impedance) then I cannot recommend this to you. Thanks for reading.