lol same... None of my outlets are even grounded. Looks like I’m gonna have to buy some Blue Dragon power cables

Is this the general consensus for all audio setups? Am I going to have to get an upgraded power cable for my PSU? I was under the impression that having a clean usb connection and a transparent DAC/Amp mattered more...

:purse::purse::purse: Yeah, Dolce & Gabbana, LV, and Gucci have some real competition! It’s only a matter of time before the APM comes with $300 case options. Oh and the handle will be a separate $200 purchase, which will require a $50 dongle to connect to a not-included power brick.

$549 HandBag lol w/ bluetooth They should’ve surveyed people who actually commute with headphones. We need more headphones that fold up or have twistable headbands. Also, we need more butt cases because apparently that’s the ChiFi trend.

Sooo it seems like the only ppl that’ll buy this are rich ppl with cash to burn and planes to catch. Regular ppl will go with Bose/Sony and audiophiles have a whole lot more options.

Real disappointed on the price point. Apple still using the outdated lightning port and it doesn’t even have any next-gen features like LC3! Also, the name is pretty ridiculous... Like they couldn’t have come up with something better than Airpods Max? Next up: the Airpods SE, Airpods Mini and...

No I don’t use any of those. Just typing out second-hand knowledge. The wireless Modmic only connects to its usb receiver—an aptxLL transmitter, it seems. PCIe wireless adapters can only transmit Windows’ ‘basic’ bluetooth codecs—SBC and aptx, if you have the driver. Additional bluetooth codecs...

There’s always going to be interference, especially if you live in an apartment complex, but moreso the closer these sources are placed next to each other. I would recommend that you plug the two adapters as far away as you can. Personally, I installed a wireless adapter (Wifi/Bluetooth)...

Bluetooth headphone-headset combos are always going to have crappy audio/glitches and issues when set to headset mode. idk why this is but headset audio and media audio are treated differently with the latter having the superior sonics, but the former has the benefit of being able to use a mic...

One of the Shanling DAPs support LDAC transmission. That’s pretty much it for LDAC transmitters...

Last I checked, IF became a shill blog for headphone manufacturers. Gone were the in-depth teardown and reviews... I miss the reviewer who would nerd out over the guts of a headphone and give a thorough analysis of the sound, but still be able to recommend “fun-sounding” headphones. If anyone...

I doubt it. We’d just have some janky Frankenstein of a headphone. Too many ppl reported buzzing in the left earcup. Imagine that as all one headphone? The buzzing would blow your eardrums!

My Panda’s hinges are solid but the buzzing is there. I guess that’s part of the Drop lottery...

Another 7 month wait for youuuu Hopefully they’ll test your unit for buzzing in the left earcup Also, that Panda be looking like the confused Mr. Krabs meme lol

Sivga Phoenix ($255) with the BW round pleather pads ($14). Total = $269. I picked this combo because for less than $300 and w/o a dedicated amp/dac (compare that to the other entries here) you can get a great sounding, bassy, v-shaped, stupidly efficient headphone that’s also comfortable to...

Good luck...

Given how things are rn, you’ll probably get them by next Christmas... 2021...

Are these wired to be balanced? Anyone know? I know the PM3s were...

Limits are not meant to be surpassed. Either your phone blows up or it rips open a hole in the space-time continuum... Lol jk I wouldn’t worry about it. If it says 8 devices then don’t use more than 8 devices. Simple :gs1000smile:

One thing you can do is pad swap. Pad swapping my dt990s with Dekoni Choice Leather really tightened and boosted the sub and mid-bass. Whomp-factor increased tenfold, but at the expense of overall tonal balance. Honestly, like everyone else said, if you really want bass impact then get yourself...

idk why ppl are crying. Rona messed up shipping and manufacturing for everyone, not even Amazon was spared!

Looks like I’ll be skipping the Verums...

Probably costs more money lol but as others have said, the cable is the least important part because (usually) it can be easily replaced...

1400 Ohms is crazy! I saw the graph though... and I checked the calculator and it seems that the BL should be able to power the T1s just fine... Even at 1400 resistance, the T1s are way more efficient than the 880s and will at most need around 5 Volts, while the BL tops out around 10V... Hence...

Seems about right... On Normal, I sometimes have to take my 37 ohm Sundaras to the 2 o’clock position depending on the music, but they also have a lower sensitivity than the Beyers so it evens out... All the 600 ohm Beyer DTs should power the same so I believe the BL should be more than enough...