Should be ample current for it. Enough for adding a bunch of LEDs too.

The original used a .38A (or 380mA) PS. The .313A might not be enough to get it up and running. You planning on using some LEDs with it? Power LED, tube LEDs? The tube heater draws 150mA of current, and since you have two tubes both will draw 300mA of current. Throw in a LED or two tube LEDs and...

If you don't want tube LEDs just omit them and their associated resistors.

Got mine today. Looks good. Thanks!

Quote: The minimum is 48 volts, 0.38A, so 0.4A is enough to get it up and running.

Quote:   It does indeed get hot, that's perfectly normal for this amp. How hot it gets is also a function of how large the heatsinks you used are. Bigger heatsinks cool things better.

Quote:   Yes they are!

Hmm less robust is debatable... My Mini3 with ARZ still going strong after nearly 3 years. The opamp doesn't get really hot in use either. Running form the line out of my iPod with volume knob @ 12 o'clock into a 32 ohm Sennheiser PX-100ii (= pretty loud, borders on the uncomfortable for me) I...

Quote: The AD8397 comes in two flavors, the -ARDZ and the -ARZ. The -ARDZ has the E-pad, which allows you to use the PCB as a heatsink for better cooling for higher power applications. In the Mini3 the -ARDZ can be replaced with the -ARZ, see Mini3 construction notes. My Mini3 has the...

This one perhaps? http://www.qables.com/shop/

Quote:   My build didn't have a power LED, the tube LEDs double as a pair of power LEDs. I connected the on-off-on switch, LED resistors and both tube LEDs to the 48 volts right after the power switch. For the LED resistors I used two resistors in parallel to distribute the power...

Quote:   Consider using an on-off-on switch so you switch of the LEDs with the switch in its central position.   Need LED resitor values? Check this: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Quote:   Looking good Mullett!

Nice touch, having added a puppy! I'm glad to see there's still progress.

For the sake of tinkering, you can make the tube LEDs switchable. I wired a on-off-on switch between the tube LEDs, I can run them at two different levels of brightness.

It's all in this thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/319231/millett-starving-student-hybrid-amp/5685#post_7319936   Quote:  

That's great news. I had almost given up on this puppy. Will Beezar be selling complete kits of this DAC (just like the GrubDAC) in the near future?

  Quote: A complete waste of capacitance IMO. Perhaps you could use them to make a flux capacitor... 

You build the 12au7 version of the amp. Start reading here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/319231/millett-starving-student-hybrid-amp/3870#post_6024902   Schematic: http://diyforums.org/SSMH/variants/SSMH-12AU7.gif

Listening to Return of the Headhunters right now with my GrubDAC feeding my 12AU7 Starving Student. What a great sounding setup.   Good luck assembling your GrubDAC, it's a bit fiddly to make but once you've got it working you are rewarded with a very fine DAC.

A 12AU7 build needs to dissipate more heat than the original 19J6 build. Every bit of extra heatsink surface area helps to keep things from getting too hot to touch.

Those 63mm tall heatsinks are a good choice. You can also use cheaper 50mm tall ones but they will get noticeably hotter. 

Another vote for the excellent GrubDAC. Sounds great, fairly cheap to build. Oh and and stripboard DAC? You're kidding right?

GrubDAC output into Mini³ into PX100's gets really loud past 11 o'clock using recent source material. Go beyond that and your eardrums start clipping violently, but not the Mini³...

  Quote: That's exactly what I do: iPod Classic line out into a Mini³ (5x gain) into a pair of PX100's. Works like a charm. Could easily blow your eardrums, I think.