Based on my understanding of electronics, ferrite beads just help filter out "high frequency" signal coming from your power outlet (by increasing the inductive value L, you can search ohm's law and impedance calculation for more information), so they would be no uses because you already have a...

Not an expert in moving-around stuffs, but H2O suggestion is a good one as headphone P/P (performemt/pay) rate is much higher than DAP's. If you worry about having too many headphones, just sell them.

A standalone DAC also helps, but not as great at amps do. I used 2 set-ups: uDac 2/ Little Dot+ & Bifrost/ MAD amp. The uDac effect was hardly noticeable (when used alone) comparing with signal straight out my Alienware so I used it as a USB-RCA converter to feed the Dot+ and the MAD amp later...

They do need an amp to sound their best, even though they're easy to be driven My experiment: SR225i with Dot I+: mkey | SR325i with Dot I+: treble got round off, nice!! | SR225i/RS1e with Mapple MAD: wow, magical, much soundstage, much punchyl!!!   Just my 2cents

400 hrs would be more than enough time to let them burn in... if you see them too fatiguing, maybe Alessandro line would suit you more than Grados do

Just buy a headphone stand (Omega shape like blownaway has above which will cost you ~$80-over $100, or a more afforable T shape or a up-side-down L shape) or a hook (Sennheiser has one called HH10 or something like that). A box would take a lot of work doing daily... (rounding the cable...

As long as you keep the voltage input of your amp stable at 110V, everything will be fine. However, if you live in an area where voltage crazily jumping up and down, you need a good converter can deal with that situation which is a little more expensive; the choices are variable, and I better...

You just need to buy a voltage converter from 220v to 110v. I dont get why you needs a current converter.

You can't hear the different because the Mac already made you headphone sounded as its full potential (or somewhere near that). For me amping is just trying to make the gears sounded as their full-swing power. And in your case, the in-ear portable one was already sounded as it best so you get...

I've owned the SR80i/225i/325is/RS1e and couldn't agree with you. The SR325is is a different kind from the other 3; it has much more bass/treble comparing with the others and isn't suitable for death/black metal in my taste, yet plays nicely for Linkin Park, Avril Lavinge ect.. The other 3 are...

so true, the RS225 is absolutely worth the money, super improvement over the 80 (and probably the 125 too, as I didn't try those)

Hi guys, As the title said, I have a very confusion about how the pre-amp and power amp perform.   From digging some of our folks' posts, I understand that: - Pre-Amp is the one actually "drives" the headphones, or doing the "distorting job"; but it doesn't have so much "power" to gain the...

Hi guys, I'm gonna receive my RS1e soon, and after swimming through this threat, it still confused me about its soundstage. Does the soundstage narrower because of the depth of the new cup or just because of the new pads?? And anyone tried G-cush on the new RS1e??

Ok, I got it. Anyone have different recommend like Logitech...??

Thank you but how about the used A5? Does it do better far than the A2, or just a little?

Now I'm looking for a speaker around $200 (maybe $250) I'm want to listen classical, country and some "softly music" from it. Anyone have recommend for me?

same question as bodosko. My search bar say that the x-fi is terrible for headphone. Is it true??

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Quote: me too, and again, what cable??