Good to see people still have a love for these. I always felt the hp-2 and hp-1 were just so much better in terms of comfort- I just can't be bothered to use the hp-3 for long sessions. If I need that style in my life, I prefer the hp-50(a) or whatever it was called. They came with the Yamaha...

Daaamn, I've seen a few of these examples on the Japanese market a few times, but the costs just get astronomical for my blood. I have a feeling you're not the type to want to look inside, but I'd love to see the driver from the hp-d90

@EtherealCereal it's a bit hard to tell from the pictures, but you may have created some cold soldered joints there. Also you can always find resistor calculators online (I always forget the number system so that's what I use) If you want some help/guidance I'm available on discord...

Sure that could have happened. Those parts can take a lot of punishment but not an unlimited amount. The right side has less parts in it though, I'm curious what you could have blown. Make sure your soldering work is actually better than the old work, or post pictures here so we can look too

What device do you have? Is it an esp6 or an esp6a?

I have no idea. I've looked but the diodes used in most of these schematics are no longer available, and since the companies are defunct, the diode values cannot be identified in any simple way. So I could get something like forward voltage drop but few other metrics.

That is definitely abnormal. I wonder if you have any blown diodes in the voltage multiplier?

I actually just recapped a set of esp6a's. Kinda kicking myself for not taking pictures of it. I also replaced the resistors. If I knew more about replacing the diodes I would have done those as well. Can you describe the distortion you're getting? Is it during certain frequencies or volumes?

It was a yh-2 If I remember correctly. Here's some more stuff, a fostex t50 oem. Kapton driver.

The metal disc around the outside is essentially a terminal. So as a regular speaker has a hot and common, an orthodynamic driver has the same... The brass pin in the center connects both poles, with the thin traces acting as the voice coil.

@iFi audio Bros, do you ever actually participate in this thread or are you just always here farming posts? anyways, here's the inside of a dead yamaha driver. Lots of grossness got inside over the years...

Nice find. I would 3d print new parts.

I really have a bad feeling about what's happening here. On the note of tensioning a diaphragm, I think a heat gun would be a bad idea. Assuming that the plastic is even slack and could be reformed with heat, you would probably be better off putting it in an oven with carefully selected...

Okay, but seriously do be careful. These sorts of voltage multipliers "cockroft walton multipliers" are quite simple, but the actual parts themselves can't be measured in circuit if I remember correctly. Look for burnt diodes, they will be discolored and harder to read. Make sure all the...

Whoa. Uhhhhh Do us a favor and be really careful with that stuff- 1 because these are nice rare speakers and 2 because they are biased with speaker voltages which are quite high and dangerous. I would honestly suggest that you start smaller and work your way up. Find success in easier projects...