Will try to be at the meet, barring any interference from work sending me to remote regions of the world :)

My suggestion: Tin two pads in opposite corners, then place your opamp. Reheat one of the pads to secure one side, then line everything up. Once things are lined up, tack down the second side, and continue to solder down the remaining pins. I'll usually solder down the rest of the pins...

I use a combination of the bins linked to above, snap-top storage boxes, plastic bags, my kitchen table, some shelves in my master bedroom, a portable cart, and patience from my wife. In all seriousness, this thread makes me realize how much my DIY gear and tube collecting has sprawled...

I usually buy the longer versions of the hammond cases and then put the power supply in the case with it. I use the case itself as a heatsink for the regulator, isolating the regulator from the chassis with a heatsink insulator pad. Then you have a nice all-in-one amp

The Earth Ground is usually the center tab of the IEC connector (power input connector): http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/ima...ta/iecdiag.gif The earth ground needs to be tied to the chassis so that if there is stray high voltage, a person doesn't complete the path to ground and get...

Quote: Originally Posted by 32y0 One of my first builds. Not the most beautiful build, but it works for me. You will want to make sure you have an earth-ground on the chassis so nobody gets electrocuted if something goes wrong. I couldn't tell in the pictures if you have one...

The F5 is probably a great amp for headphones, but my concern would be that it has too much power.. It usually takes fractions of a watt to drive your headphones to ear crushing levels, so perhaps an F5 with lower voltage rails? For something similar, take a look at the "Zen" headphone amp in...

I've bought quite a few Nichicon's here: Nichicon Muse & QXF capacitors From my understanding of the Muse polarized line, it goes like this: KZ - Top of the line FG - Second to the top of the line FW - Below FG The ES is generally considered "superior" for anything that is in the...

I don't have any personal experience with them. I've always thought that if I built a Full-range project, I'd probably go with either the FR125 or maybe something from Audio Nirvana. The FR125 has some pretty good reviews on diyaudio: diyAudio Forums - CSS FR125S Initial impressions - Page...

Dump the tang bands and go with these: Creative Sound - Product Details For the subs, maybe some of the Apex Jr specials: Speaker Stuff A good option might be to build the subs behind you, since the wavelength they're creating is longer than the distance to you, you shouldn't be able...

I've ordered a few thousand dollars in parts from mouser and digikey over the past 7 years, probably in 50+ shipments. I can only recall one occasion where I've had a problem with either company. I don't remember which one it was, but they had shipped me most of the parts I'd ordered, plus some...

I think the only amps I've missed are a Millett Hybrid with Elna Tonerex caps throughout, and a PPA v1.1 with diamond buffers that i gave to a good friend as a going-away present. I figure with the Millett, I could always retrofit one of my other Millett builds with Tonerex caps if needed...

Just saw that this was back on. Glad to hear it! I should be there, barring anything unforeseen. I don't think I have anything too new or interesting to bring, but I'll try and whip something together prior to the meet Mike

I'll try to be there, but can't make any guarantees on this one, unfortunately. I have a ton of stuff happening in October (like getting married!). Mike

The LM1875/3875/3886 also like to put out a bit of DC. Not enough to harm speakers, but probably more than I'd be comfortable with on headphones. If you poke around on DIYaudio.com, they do have a thread on how to throw away some of the gain with different feedback topologies, while still...