That makes sense, that's how it felt when I was soldering it. If I recall, I was worried about melting the inside plastic. Also, my soldering iron doesn't have a heat adjustment on it, so I can only get so much out of it. Maybe time for an upgrade? This project is starting to suck away my funds, but I'm coming out of it with a lot of knowledge and a lot of new tools that will last quite a while. So, I got some more done on the case. The test case is actually going to be pine, not cedar, I misspoke. I'm glad I went this route, as I made a ton of mistakes so far, and I would have been mad at myself if it was with the cherry. I cut two 15" boards for the front and rear, and two 8" boards for the sides. I only plan on having a ~14 inch wide finished case, but I want to sand down the front face to rounded edges for aesthetics, so I made them significantly longer. I cut 1/4 inch grooves along the lower inside edge for the MDF to sit on. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but I wanted to try this first. I don't have a router, so I had to make multiple passes with the circular saw. I'm glad I bought the Kreg Ripcut several months ago, as it made this much easier. Still, I invested in a cheap Husky table with a built in router part, plus a cheap accessory to use my Dremel as a router. I will see if I use it much, to decide if I "need" an actual router. I didn't have very straight cuts on the side pieces, as it was my first time using the Kreg tool, so I went to sand them down. Doing it by hand wasn't cutting it, and this isn't really a job for the orbital sander. The fiance heard me lamenting, so she told me to go buy a new tabletop sander, which was pretty cool. My first time using the sander, I wound up taking too much off one side piece, so I had to recut it anyway, and it came out much better that time. I had already cut the MDF down to 12x8, which is what I wanted my final inside dimensions to be. I didn't take into account the grooves, so now I have to recut a new piece of MDF, about 8.5 x 12.5 this time. Before I realized this, I started screwing the case together (see below) with the MDF fit perfectly in place. So now I will need to drill new holes on at least one side, as it is only ~11 inches wide due to the MDF being in the slots. I hope this is making sense, as there is not a real good way to explain this. When I was making the first cuts, I noticed my saw was very dull, so I went to buy new blades, one for fine work this time, instead of a "general" blade. While I was at the hardware store, I looked for some good screws. I don't want to glue this whole thing together, in case I need to take it apart. So I was looking for an EZLok style threaded insert. I remember seeing Adam Savage from Mythbusters using something like this when building his "Traveling Beaver Case" (check out the Tested youtube channel for some more good stuff from him.) They had something similar, but when I went to screw them in, a combination of the hole being slightly too small (my fault) and the quality or thickness of the metal near the screwdriver slot (not my fault) caused the tabs to break off when they were about 90% in. I ordered some actual ones from Amazon, so I will try those out when they get here. I also found some hex socket head screws which look great, although they take forever to screw in due to the fine threads needed for the small EZLok parts. Even though it's a case of form over function, I won't be taking this thing apart very often (hopefully!) I ordered some more wire from Navships, glad to see he is still in business. This time I got a green 24 AWG wire for ground for the audio jacks (I already have two other wires for signal.) I also bought some 20 AWG two conductor twisted pair for the power wiring throughout the case. I think it will clean it up, as I have multiple things going on inside for this build. I bought a set of terminal blocks as well to clean up the power wiring. For power to the Pi, I bought a RaspiATX board. The Pi board should not have the 5V just shut off due to concerns with corrupting the memory. People do it all the time, but I thought better safe than sorry. This board uses an Off-Mom button (I hope) to control shutting down or rebooting the Pi. The downside of this is that my AC/DC-DC converter now has to have power to it all the time. Also, I had to find a new button that matched the look and feel of my other button, not an easy task if you are picky. Still, Digikey's catalog is much easier to navigate than I remember, which helped. I also bought test jacks from Digikey. I didn't use the ones from the BOM, as those look a little harder to get a good solder joint, but I got a similar part. For the RaspiATX board, I also needed to buy Raspberry Pi GPIO header jumper wires, and header pins. I could have just soldered directly, but I like the idea of all the components of this build being modular so that replacing anything is not too great of a task. I did a little research into Volumio with an LCD or touchscreen display. While version 2 should be compatible with the Raspberry Pi foundation 7" touchscreen, that doesn't really fit my (current) design (maybe mount in the top someday?) The LCD display would be more do-able, but we are back into "custom" territory again, so I'm going to start with getting this base build working before I start adding on more features. More than the ones I have already added, that is. Hopefully I can get a few more things done in the next few days. The Glass Jar Audio kit came and it looks great, packaged well enough to take a bomb blast. Very exciting to get components in the mail again! The IQAudio board has still not arrived yet, and I'm considering buying a "Lite" hifiberry to use as my test subject for this first build, due to cost concerns if I kill a board. Still waiting on my tubes from Beezar, but they are probably in my mailbox now. I'm still going to meet up with the local vendor, just to put some more tubes in the stock pile. He did confirm my suspicions that he gets his tubes from various sources: repair shops going out of business, old stock kept in non-temperature/humidity controlled basements or sheds, etc. That's all for now. I'll try and post some pics of the case later tonight.