The Stax SRM-001 mod thread
Feb 4, 2011 at 2:25 PM Post #376 of 440

 
Quote:
I changed output Fets and Transistors but unfortunately I didn't solve the problem; after three minutes I hear an annoying distortion on the right channel. Do you think the replacement of the output Opamp could solve the problem?

 
You know the noise when the earspeakers make or break seal, right? Just to make sure that your distortion problem is not that, which is not a problem.
 
Feb 7, 2011 at 6:15 PM Post #377 of 440


Quote:
Dear AudioCats,I have just made the FC class MOD and it sounds fantastic. The only issue is that i could not find the 0.1u 630V, so used only the stock output caps in paralel for this task. Can you recommend some replacement that can be found in stock? Conrad has WIMA caps, but there are several 0.1uf 630v available and i am not quite sure what is the difference.Thanks in advance and admirations for the hard work you have done, so all of us can do the mod.
 
 

 assuming you are talking about the high voltage rail reservoir..... any high quality cap should work, as long as it is no taller than 12mm and less than 6mm in thickness.
 
Jul 15, 2011 at 12:18 PM Post #380 of 440
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Jul 19, 2011 at 6:17 PM Post #383 of 440
I want to contribute some to this thread. A cure for all baby STAX lovers with unfit/hurting ears, without headband aid - a custom silicone prototype
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The sound signature is relatively the same with better bass / mid / image so this is definately NOT a cure for the treble roll-off but I can live with it so far.
 
Now you can use it anywhere, shake your head (violently?) to your fav tunes, took it out for jogging or even sleep with them in bed.
 
The best thing for this mod is the comfort. Moreover it costs very little and does not require a skillful hand - but not too clumsy one though.
 
Hope you will be more enjoy with your baby STAX like I really do enjoy mine.
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AK
 
Jul 20, 2011 at 5:08 AM Post #387 of 440


 
Quote:
^That's so cool bro! Wonder where can I get one locally, hmn...



Cheers bro. I bet you can get it locally or even do it by yourself.
 
The process is fairly simple and straightforward. For summary, it's actually your ear impression on one side and your baby stax's impression on the other side simple as that. You visit your local audiologist(bring along your baby stax without silicone tips with you) asking for ear impression, just when the silicone fully filled your ear canal, put your baby stax on and adjust it to a proper position(dont forget to first seal the phone's hole with cotton to prevent silicone entering your phone), wait for few minutes, take it out and repeat the step for the other side (while you enjoy the work of art of your own ear canal on another), take your baby stax out (you can later on attached it back firmly - good thing about silicone impression) put it in the safe place, go back home, use the cutter or sharp knife to cut out the unwant bit, carefully cut out the hole for your sound outlet (I would repeat - carefully and good planning on where to cut and where not to cut is crucial or else you would end up starting the process once again),blend the cut in to get the equal cross section of your ear canal. My pics would be an idea whereabout to cut it and you get a hint hole on your own mold where your baby stax just touch your ear canal and you can start cutting carefully from there.
 
This video will be an idea for the overall process but Radian silicone cure in 10 mins not few mins. If you having a problem seeing your local audiologist, you can follow the step on this video without a problem. If you have already watched this video, you can skip watching.
 

 
If I would say something, better tell your audiologist to use less silicone than normal as it is hard to push the baby stax to the proper depth as you can see me wearing the baby stax with 3-4mm thick silicone shown - I wish I had a lot less. Also ask your audiologist for help on adjusting the phone when you put it to the proper depth might be good idea as you can't see where you going.
 
Quote:
The SuperFatCat++ mod was the cure for the treble roll off, at least in my case.



I have discussed with him and I might try this soon. So the amp's roll off then not the phone's? Wikiphonia said the other way round.
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Jul 20, 2011 at 5:19 PM Post #389 of 440
Way back in the thread it stated that:
 
"Opamp power supply upgrade, +/- , 9~12V:
R33, 34 and 35 need to be shorted. The original purpose of these resistors were probably for creating a Pie filter network so small filter capacitor can be used (stock caps were 10uF/16V). The new op-amps (next step) requires a lot more operating current than the stock JRC062L, if you leave R33/34/35 in the circuit they will drop voltage so much that the new opamps won't work. "

 
I'm using the OPA1642 op-amp (thanks Boris) and am wondering do I have to replace the R33, etc resistors above with other values or would it be OK to short them out?  Is the goal is to bring the voltage (supplied to the Op-amp) down as low as possible to lower the current drawn by the Opamp/amp?  I ask because in post #224 Sclee found that:
 
"I installed two AD8620AR, i tested with following and overall current draw is:
Short R35/R34 15V 360ma
R35/R34 with 220ohm 12V 345ma
R35/R34 with 440ohm 9.1V (the stax's default SMD resistance) 320ma"



 
Also, if I was to change the value of the resistors, I can't figure out which ones to change - all three of them or one or two?
 
Thanks for any help
 
Tim (marcus1)
 

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