The 3D Printer Thread! :D
Aug 30, 2014 at 4:21 PM Post #121 of 149
You could go the more scientific way, build 3 versions and the 4th being stock then do a test with a small group of people to see which version they like more and also to weed out the placebo effect (not supposed to talk about AB testing or any non subjective opinions on headfi)
 
Other then building and trying out the design there really isn't a way to figure out how the finished housing will effect the sound as there is no "right way" of going it. Fully open designs are vary forgiving like mine but with a closed back every little detail matters and can be a bit frustrating to fix all the issues a closed design has. The Orthodynamic roundup thread is probably the most active thread of people building and modding there own headphones and you can learn a lot about proper dampening and some have built woodies, maybe ask them about it.
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/23430#post_10827131
 
Jan 29, 2015 at 1:27 PM Post #123 of 149
http://www.head-fi.org/t/752877/3d-printed-closed-headphones-with-hd800-driver
I builded a prototype closed headphones with hd800 driver. The beauty of 3d printer is that you can make as many iteration as you can.
 
Feb 1, 2015 at 1:01 AM Post #126 of 149
  Is there any suggestions for an accurate and easy to use 3d printer for making headphone cups under $1,000 ?As 

As the above post, I have been using a printrbot simple metal (around $400-500) and it work fine making the 3d printed cup and baffle for my hd800 driver. Try to seek any 150x150x150 mm build volume, since the max cup diameter ever build (lcd-2 or sony r10) and maximum earpads diameter is 110mm.
A printer without heated bed(stock printrbot simple metal) is good enough if you want to build in pla (as I did), wood or bronze fill. If you want to print in ABS, buy the heated bed accessory plus a hair dryer for better result.
 
Feb 1, 2015 at 2:11 AM Post #127 of 149
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/752877/3d-printed-closed-headphones-with-hd800-driver
I builded a prototype closed headphones with hd800 driver. The beauty of 3d printer is that you can make as many iteration as you can.

 
  As the above post, I have been using a printrbot simple metal (around $400-500) and it work fine making the 3d printed cup and baffle for my hd800 driver. Try to seek any 150x150x150 mm build volume, since the max cup diameter ever build (lcd-2 or sony r10) and maximum earpads diameter is 110mm.
A printer without heated bed(stock printrbot simple metal) is good enough if you want to build in pla (as I did), wood or bronze fill. If you want to print in ABS, buy the heated bed accessory plus a hair dryer for better result.

Is the image you're printing completely smooth on the computer before it's printed by your printer and gives you the first post I quoted's finish? Ideally, we want a finish that we will not have to sand smooth after printing.
 
Feb 1, 2015 at 6:56 PM Post #130 of 149
What plastic works best for headphones ?

Wood fill is too soft and bronze fill is too heavy. Pla is more stiff and produced more resonance at higher frequency than abs. You can use either pla or abs but you need to mass damp them with dynamat or platicine.
 

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