[ForceMajeure]

I want as much bass as possible should I open the vented black ports? I think that is what they are right ? The black things under the wire are mess ports on GV ?

 
Yes, the black thing is the mesh Knowles used on the Hodvtec driver for the GV. I recommend trying hearing it first without removing them and see if you like the sound before messing with it. 
There is a fine balance already established with it's combination with the twfk. Removing it will add bass but might mess with lower mids also. I guess you will have to play with it.
If you remove the mesh do it carefully so you can apply them back if you don't like the outcome.
 

  No one will help? =(
Guys who knows whether this polymer is suitable for manufacturing?
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z0d.6639537.1997196601.369.VayMl5&id=547279488592

 
You could try to wire it first in parallel to the GK and see how it sound. From there maybe control it with a resistor only, or do a high pass filter doing so might result in dips in the response because of phase...you will have to experiment.
 
That polymer is for SLA 3d printing, don't think it's safe to put in the ears, also how will it react to your DIY UV curing...
 

By the way, made this good for bass head iem. It's a 3 drivers 3way crossover. Who can guess what is this? It's gonna be a tough guess to get 100% accurate on my configuration. Hehe

 
Low passed X2 CI with an high passed 2389/ED?

 

[ziixtreme]

Yes, the black thing is the mesh Knowles used on the Hodvtec driver for the GV. I recommend trying hearing it first without removing them and see if you like the sound before messing with it. 
There is a fine balance already established with it's combination with the twfk. Removing it will add bass but might mess with lower mids also. I guess you will have to play with it.
If you remove the mesh do it carefully so you can apply them back if you don't like the outcome.

You could try to wire it first in parallel to the GK and see how it sound. From there maybe control it with a resistor only, or do a high pass filter doing so might result in dips in the response because of phase...you will have to experiment.

That polymer is for SLA 3d printing, don't think it's safe to put in the ears, also how will it react to your DIY UV curing...

Low passed X2 CI with an high passed 2389/ED?

Wrong. 2389 or ED would not give anything at all over 20k, this is over 20k. Plus, I am not a fan of ED. This is also not 2389. You do not need 2 CI for bass like this.

 

[Anton Roshchin]

Hi!
I want to make DIY Etymotic ER4-B. But didn't find what's inside the barell on cable exactly.
 
Variants:
1) 100 Ohm resistor & 220 nF capacitor in parallel. https://rinchoi.blogspot.ru/2012/08/p2b-adapter-for-etymotic-research-er-4p.html
2) https://d1jesv1uvhg9i4.cloudfront.net/9/93/93e9808d_post-2-1052299023.gif
3) https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13718717_1188285747870397_5222870271467699675_n.jpg?oh=06fce40b4eca4dbf1c623fa506bbccca&oe=597D2D8B
4) https://d1jesv1uvhg9i4.cloudfront.net/a/ad/ad68ca8c_cdpkorea-1327211441-1.png and https://static.flickr.com/72/215475607_a55e413f07_b.jpg are the same
 
Which one is right?

 

[ForceMajeure]

Wrong. 2389 or ED would not give anything at all over 20k, this is over 20k. Plus, I am not a fan of ED. This is also not 2389. You do not need 2 CI for bass like this.

So what is it then?
33AJ007i/9 and wbfk?

 

[J-breezy]

I know this off the current topic but wondering what you guys prefer to use between mmcx and 2-pin. I wish I could find a place to get 4 pin connectors like JH But I've made iems with both 2-pin and mmcx. On one pair my pins got bent but I still made them work with no sound issues. Had one mmcx cable that didn't connect great and made sound intermittent. But I replaced the cable and the issue was fixed. So just wondering if you guys prefer one over the other for any certain reasons.
Thanks!

 

[ziixtreme]

So what is it then?
33AJ007i/9 and wbfk?

WBFK yes. Not sonion this time. It's a single 22955 + 26805 + wbfk a little bit of tweaking it will sound like UERR with a little bit more bass texture due to modified 22956 hehehehe

 

[ziixtreme]

MH334 here you go

 

[drumkendrum]

Hey guys! Was wondering if you have any tips for me, I'm using the Klarsil H for the impression casting and there's always a ton of small bubbles in it, I've tried poring it slowly but still has quite a bit of bubbles in it. Would love any info !

 

[Bribo]

You need to degas your casting compound before you pour it.  I mix the silicone then use a break bleeder kit to create a vacuum and pop all the bubbles, then the casting material is nice and clear.

 

[Squirg]

LOVING THE NEW SITE!!! Nice work HF!

Hey, gave this stuff a shot over the weekend and it is, by far, the best polishing compound I have tried yet.

https://www.oaktreeproducts.com/buffing/cres-shine-earmold-polish-1-3-lb-bar-127a

Give it a try!

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I ordered some today, can you post some pics of yours results?

 

[ForceMajeure]

LOVING THE NEW SITE!!! Nice work HF!

Hey, gave this stuff a shot over the weekend and it is, by far, the best polishing compound I have tried yet.

https://www.oaktreeproducts.com/buffing/cres-shine-earmold-polish-1-3-lb-bar-127a

Give it a try!

Too bad there is no more picture gallery on the side. This was a great tool to look for things on a thread.

Regarding the buffing compound, do you use a bench or a DREMEL? Also it could be very nice to see your results

 

[Bribo]

I am having a strange issue with my Fotoplast. When i cast shells it works great, but when I add it to the shells later as a thin layer to add body or clear up some scratches it never seems to cure hard and stays a bit tacky. Anyone know what I am doing wrong ?

 

[ForceMajeure]

I am having a strange issue with my Fotoplast. When i cast shells it works great, but when I add it to the shells later as a thin layer to add body or clear up some scratches it never seems to cure hard and stays a bit tacky. Anyone know what I am doing wrong ?

When casting a shell, at one stage you add the glycerin so the fotoplast can cure avoiding free air to get in contact with it. this allows curing without the tackiness..when you do retouch you need to allow slightly longer curing time to make sure it gets hard. You'll have a slightly tacky layer in the end. To remove it wipe it with alcohol.

 

[Bribo]

Ahhhh thanks, i didn't realize the glycerin was to prevent air contact, i figured it was to prevent slumping of the uncured product.