DIY Earbuds
Jul 12, 2017 at 9:40 AM Post #451 of 4,705
I'm also interested in H180 mod, if you decide to do it, let us know how the sound changes with each step, at least if it sounds better/worst to you.
My H180 arrived today, out of the box it's not musically satisfying to me, they need to burn-in for a few days.

I re-cable my Vido and I'm giving them a second chance.
The diaphragm of the right driver was hanging so had to glue it, I used the tiniest bit of nail polish/varnish, making sure it didn't run to the diaphragm.
They still sound good.
 
Last edited:
Jul 12, 2017 at 10:04 AM Post #452 of 4,705
Ah, ok, got it. I confirm that there is a hollow rivet in the center in the H180 and it is indeed filled with glue.
Let us know how the mod goes if you do it :beerchug: I guess I might as well just try it, I like H180 but its not my favourite so no big risk. Would you know the sound difference between v2 and v3? i think I remember v2 being more V-shaped, but not too sure
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 10:54 AM Post #453 of 4,705
Let us know how the mod goes if you do it :beerchug: I guess I might as well just try it, I like H180 but its not my favourite so no big risk. Would you know the sound difference between v2 and v3? i think I remember v2 being more V-shaped, but not too sure

I have not heard the V2 and I traded my V3 for the ZEN (well, I gave a friend a V3 and a Blox B160 to get the Zen). I liked the sound of V3, but absolutely hated the stiff red cable:)
 
Last edited:
Jul 12, 2017 at 11:12 AM Post #454 of 4,705
I'm also interested in H180 mod, if you decide to do it, let us know how the sound changes with each step, at least if it sounds better/worst to you.
My H180 arrived today, out of the box it's not musically satisfying to me, they need to burn-in for a few days.

I re-cable my Vido and I'm giving them a second chance.
The diaphragm of the right driver was hanging so had to glue it, I used the tiniest bit of nail polish/varnish, making sure it didn't run to the diaphragm.
They still sound good.
Which cable did you use?
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 12:48 PM Post #455 of 4,705
Hey guys, my solder from AE died on me. Any recommendation for a good soldering station?
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 12:48 PM Post #456 of 4,705
Hey diyers. What is/are your best creation/mod so far? I've read all this thread now and apparently, the most common mods are re-cables and housing tuning. Has someone tried something different than those things?
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 12:58 PM Post #457 of 4,705
Hey diyers. What is/are your best creation/mod so far? I've read all this thread now and apparently, the most common mods are re-cables and housing tuning. Has someone tried something different than those things?
Other front cover too.. not only housing
P70621-125430-001.jpg P70701-131810-001.jpg
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 1:17 PM Post #458 of 4,705
Other front cover too.. not only housing

Is that a **** PT15 to a Yuin-ish earbud? Really cool!

I've tried a similar thing with a Monk+ but there's an amount of glue around the driver which makes difficult to disassemble without separating the diaphragm and the plate (at least for me), so honestly, you're a really skilled. :thumbsup:
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 1:25 PM Post #460 of 4,705
I used the cable from a broken TY HI-Z HP-150 to re-cable the Vido.
IMG_20170712_171612.jpg

Some moths ago I got a Seaf 150 and a TY 150, looks like they have the same drivers, but _my_ TY 150 sounded very bad and the Seaf 150 sounded very good.
I opened them and saw that the TY driver was full of glue, also on the other side of the driver the glue had runed over the top of the diaphragm, that explained why they sounded so bad.
So I used that cable in the Vido.
IMG_20170530_013444.jpg

I also bought another cable from AliEx, it's cheap and it looks good to me, they say each conductor is 32*0.05 Oxygen Free Copper.
It can't be seen well in the photos, but each conductor L,R,G,G is inside a black insulator like the seaf/TY cable above and after that there is a transparent jackets all around.
I got the grey color and It looks like the Toneking Tomahawk cable.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-2...k-LC-OFC-DIY-Headphone-Audio/32764439785.html
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 1:34 PM Post #461 of 4,705
Hey guys, my solder from AE died on me. Any recommendation for a good soldering station?
I bought one similar to this one. For the small things I do it's great, and for the price excellent :) It takes 5 minutes to warm up though, but its a good time to reconsider what you are going to do. The tip is a bit large for soldering in the zishan, but as its replaceable I'm sure one can get other tips if its a problem.

Edit: I'm sure you can finder nicer ones though if you don't go for budget ones.
 
Last edited:
Jul 12, 2017 at 1:46 PM Post #462 of 4,705
I bought one similar to this one. For the small things I do it's great, and for the price excellent :) It takes 5 minutes to warm up though, but its a good time to reconsider what you are going to do. The tip is a bit large for soldering in the zishan, but as its replaceable I'm sure one can get other tips if its a problem.

Edit: I'm sure you can finder nicer ones though if you don't go for budget ones.
Thx for the fast response! Unfortunately it doesnt ship to the place i'm in. But i shall probably look for something with this form factor. The previous one was just a standalone pen and it probably got cooked after i used it for like an hour straight lol. Now it cant even liquidify the solder on the driver T.T
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 1:49 PM Post #463 of 4,705
Thx for the fast response! Unfortunately it doesnt ship to the place i'm in. But i shall probably look for something with this form factor. The previous one was just a standalone pen and it probably got cooked after i used it for like an hour straight lol. Now it cant even liquidify the solder on the driver T.T
I think they have that model all over the world, it was just an example. I bought in local store. Of that type Velleman has 1 model that goes to 450C and 1 to 480C, as I understood it the latter would be better if one wants to solder un-leaded but I was too petty :smile_phones:
 
Last edited:
Jul 12, 2017 at 1:55 PM Post #464 of 4,705
Every earbud driver I see has one connector marked with paint/ink.
The drivers have polarity, one contact is +/positive and the other is -/negative.
In all earbud drivers I've seen:
The (+) contact is marked with paint/ink and connect to the Red wire (R) or the Green wire (L).
The (-) contact is unpainted/unmarked and connect the ground wires.

Something interesting is my TY HI-Z 32, doesn't have the paint/marks on the same side of the driver.
Do you think they build the driver and only after that they somehow measure and mark the polarity?
_20170526_220311.JPG
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 2:36 PM Post #465 of 4,705
I think they have that model all over the world, it was just an example. I bought in local store. Of that type Velleman has 1 model that goes to 450C and 1 to 480C, as I understood it the latter would be better if one wants to solder un-leaded but I was too petty :smile_phones:
I shall check out my local stores. Thx again!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top