[Tom-s]

It will be more difficult to get them working as a balanced headphone.
Open the left ear cup and see if the 2.5mm socket is a 4 pole (TRSS) socket with 4 wires running to it.
If so, then just use a TRSS male tot 4 pin XLR for the cable and you'll be set.
If not, then it will involve some customization. I don't know what they look like on the inside.
You'd have to rearrange the cables on the inside of the headphone to a TRSS female to make it work (replace the TRS 2.5mm female with TRSS).
 
Or you could rework the right ear cup so you get a cable exit on that side and bypass the small internal wiring in the headband.
But again, i don't know what's where on the inside with these headphones. First have a good look and then decide what will be the most easy / best option.

 

[Middy]

Thank you for taking the time to respond Tom. I have to admit I can solder to Aerospace standards but know electrics like my grandmother. As I have now a decent headphone Amp I wanted to see what a custom cable can do. I think I will just try an experiment with a 1/4 + custom 2.5mm jacks. I went mad with solid silver 4 wire litz 1 meter and have 10 mtrs of silver occ copper coming to play with. I entirely blame Head fi members and a hifi nut at work who lent me furutech silver power cable.... Any advice basic cabling would be appreciated if not keep smiling and thanks.
Dave 8^)

 

[esteboune]

Middy!
 
That's a though job...
 
the 2.5 TRS in the left cup is really tight, i do not believe we can change it...


the only way, from my point of view, is the dismantle completely the 2 cups, and to do a "traditional" wiring. 2 wires per cup.
 
The problem is that i do not have a single clue on how to dismantle those cups!
 
It is so well made.
 
And the real question remains...:
 
Will it affect the sumptuous engineering, the sound quality ?
 

 
I do not dare try it.
 
i used some pure silver wire previously on the P7, useless...
 
i tried on several other headphones, there is a true improvement, but if you cannot change the wire until the solder point with the driver, it is pointless.
 
in the P7 case, 0 improvement, so i went back with a  canare L4es6 cable, it is perfect. Aesthetic improvement....
 
the only way to really improve the sound quality of the p7 will be the re-wire the connection between the 2.5 TRS jack and the left/right drivers. But what a difficult job...!

 

[Middy]

I do not wish to destroy my P7'S for small change to sound. I think I will use this experience to make a cable rather than improve the P7. My sowing is not so good. Maybe a heat gun can remove the other cup? but as you say I am not that brave. When my OCC Copper/ silver plate wire comes, I will make a longer cable with a 1/4 male jack. This will be more useful for my OPPO ha1. If it sounds different to my ears I will let everyone know but I am 42 not 24...
Thank you for the reply.
Keep smiling
Dave 8^)

 

[esteboune]

I do not wish to destroy my P7'S for small change to sound. I think I will use this experience to make a cable rather than improve the P7. My sowing is not so good. Maybe a heat gun can remove the other cup? but as you say I am not that brave. When my OCC Copper/ silver plate wire comes, I will make a longer cable with a 1/4 male jack. This will be more useful for my OPPO ha1. If it sounds different to my ears I will let everyone know but I am 42 not 24...
Thank you for the reply.
Keep smiling
Dave 8^)

Good
 
i already did 3 different cable for my P7, and obviously the latest one is the best one.
 
i started DIYing my cable about 3 months ago, and did huge improvement.
 
My advice, buy a lot of Canare L4E6S, it is GREAT and cheap, you can use it for earphone, headphone, interconnect and PRACTICE !

 

[Tom-s]

If you look closely to your headphone cups you'll see there's 4 spots on the grey area that are actually hollow (maybe it's more easy to locate them by touch).
1 is mid top, one mid bottom, one just below the dot on the left and one on the right.
In those holes you'll find the screws that hold the cup. 
That's the way to open them.

 

[esteboune]

  If you look closely to your headphone cups you'll see there's 4 spots on the grey area that are actually hollow (maybe it's more easy to locate them by touch).
1 is mid top, one mid bottom, one just below the dot on the left and one on the right.
In those holes you'll find the screws that hold the cup. 
That's the way to open them.

hmmm
 
will look at it tonight...
 
thanks

 

[Middy]

Thanks both for taking the time to reply just got a carbon fibre 1/4 trs but ebay seller sent a mono not stereo..
Keep smiling
Dave

 

[Ilja77]

Is someone have experience in changing wiring of AKG K702? 

 

[esteboune]

  Is someone have experience in changing wiring of AKG K702? 

nope sorry

 

[esteboune]

new cable !
 

 

[Middy]

Nice,do you have any assembly pics.
Keep up the good work
Dave

 

[Peridot]

new cable !

Nice job. Were you able to open the earcups?

I followed Tom-s suggestion, and found the screws on the right and left side. However the fasteners on the top and bottom appear to be some type of rivet.

 

[esteboune]

no
 
i cannot unscrew it...
 
it is turning, but not moving.
yes, i believe it is a type of rivet.
 
so i'm stuck!

 

[Peridot]

 
no
 
i cannot unscrew it...
 
it is turning, but not moving.
yes, i believe it is a type of rivet.
 
so i'm stuck!

 
I've actually done some more investigating and found that the rivet type fasteners at mid-top and mid-bottom are not relevant.
 
There are actually six screws securing the driver mounting plate to the headshell at roughly the four corners, and centre right / centre left. They are difficult to locate under the thin felt layer beneath the earpad, but once removed access is available to the jack and internal wiring.
 
I'll try to post a photo later.