Quote: The pads are copper. They are easy to lift, though, so beware of putting strain on them or excess heat.

There is no attenuator in the standard build. It can be used to drive headphones with a preferred opamp substituted for this purpose, but you need to supply attenuation elsewhere in the chain. In general though, it's just a DAC.

25v is fine. 19v is a minimum amount of drop.

Ferrari has also done this. Check the builders thread.

Aesthetics aside, it does seem less functional for forum usage.

^correct.

My recently acquired TF10 reshells. Fit and sound are both good.

I have also ordered Hakko tips from Cantonmade and they seem to be authentic. Regardless, they perform flawlessly.

If it is the socket making poor contact. You can tighten the contacts with needlenose pliers.

I will happily contribute.

Just brainstorming at this point, but I would like some feedback on feasibility and/or desireability of my idea. I have the triple-fi, which, like many others, I am considering getting remolded. I also have some sleek sa6's. I much prefer the mids of the sa6 to the tf10--so, why not use the...

It was the ldo's. With new ones in she is singing again! Thanks everyone. Edit: It was working fine for a few minutes. Now the regs are gone again. Maybe it wasn't a dmm probe that caused this, after all. Thoughts? Edit Two: I think I found the problem. Shoddy wiring on my part, suprise...

Quote: Originally Posted by tacitapproval Current draw is 20.2mV without music and 21mV with. This is low, no? U1 is 4.98v going in, and .29v out and .93v on the NR. U2 is 4.98v in, 1.7v out and .98 on NR. Does this reveal anything? Mister X (or others) can you tell me if...

Current draw is 20.2mV without music and 21mV with. This is low, no? U1 is 4.98v going in, and .29v out and .93v on the NR. U2 is 4.98v in, 1.7v out and .98 on NR. Does this reveal anything?

The reason I ask about powering the y2 separately is because I had some contact problems with the pins and headers, so I ended up wiring the the boards together. Therefore, I would rather eliminate other things before desoldering the wiring.

Forgive my ignorance, but can you explain what powing the y2 separately would show? Both y2 regs are getting 5v on their inputs. I will check the current draw.

I will see if swapping the regs solves it. I wonder why it damaged the y2, but not the y1?

I need some troubleshooting help. I was working on reconfiguring a tread to power a previously working y2 and I briefly, accidentally shorted positve to ground on the y1 dc jack with an errant probe. Now the y1 continues to function, but the y2 does not. I get 1.7v on the 3.3v reg and only...

Quote: Originally Posted by m1abrams I would look at JP1D pin. I bet that connection is iffy. Nope, no luck with that one. Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX Patch the optical output into the optical input and make sure it's not the source? I don't have...

I found yet more strange behavior with the optical input. If I run asio the music is nearly intact, but with split second dropouts every second or two, whereas directsound produces more stutter than music. And, again, I can immediately switch the plug to the y1 out and everything is clear. I...

Very strange, indeed. I will keep poking around. There must be an iffy joint somewhere, because I have had to restart the dac a few times after locking up while playing for a bit. The optical results have been consistent this way though.

I suppose that is possible, but then why would the y1 output continue to function properly?

I just got a y2 up and running, but have found a strange problem. USB and coaxial inputs are clear and sound great, but optical puts out a stuttering version of the music. It sort of pulses rapidly in and out. The optical works fine on the y1 output. It only occurs on the y2. Any ideas?

This sounds really good. I am listening to Bitches Brew now and wow, the bass is thumping. With the 6n23, I get 84v at B+ and 53v at TP. With 5814, I get 84v and 56v, respecitvely. I did use a 22k resistor at r4 (I didn't have 18k), so I get 9.8k--I think I have some 16k's, so I could switch...

Quote: Originally Posted by regal 5ma is still on the low side, so you aren't stressing the tube at all. If you raise B+ and change R4 to 9k you shouldn't get a 30V voltage drop across the CCS but it shouldn't hurt. I did both of those steps and r6 is 100--not sure why I get that...