I noticed the same thing. Seems like a pretty good deal. I've read from others here on the forum that it's a rebranded Fiio, but I believe that the Fiio rep also said that they sell OEM parts, which I could take to mean that it might not be 100% an E7 with a different brand name.   In any...

Well I'm not sure what happened, but I picked up two sets of Philips SHE9500's for my wife and I. Not quite as good sounding IMO, but decent

So I've been using these Razer M100's I got over a year ago on some Buy.com sale for like $8. They're decent, especially for the price. But I found lately that the right side doesn't have any.... boom. It's like the whole low end and doesn't really come through anymore. It didn't disappear, but...

Looking at getting one of these for my wife for while she's working... does it last more than 8 hours? Thanks for the pics, it's pretty nice looking.

Thanks a lot tangent! I'm going to be sure to read that again when I get some more parts in a day or two. Some of it is over my head though.... I'm still watching your videos as well, great references for when I'm working.

Okay, I may have found the problem... thanks Emooze for making me think of it... I went to tangent's site, read up on different breadboards... I do in fact have protoboard, and now I see where the problem most likely is... I have soldered the 2nd LED's negative onto the same copper as the...

I used some protoboard, but I was soldering it... didn't think of not having to solder... hmm....

Sorry if I didn't say it in my first post. Yes, I'm using IR LED's, and I know I can't see them on personally, but that's why I'm using a webcam with the IR filter removed to test it.

Yeah, I am using a webcam with the IR filter removed to test it. So if I'm getting basically 9V across each LED... then they've all failed? Would that be possible if the resistor failed like if I heated it too much while soldering? Edit: BTW thanks for all the help

Yeah, I'll give a different LED a try.

Quote: Originally Posted by Logistic These LEDs are rated at 1.3V, you shouldn't have 9V across them. Are you sure you connected them in series like that? Battery positive to resistor to + LED1, right? @obobskivich, I might try switching the middle LED. I'm a noob with all...

I'm trying to set up this program called Freetrack. It's a head tracking program. Basically I'm using a modified webcam that picks up light, but easily picks up IR light. I know it works because I am using my Xbox remote which it picks up VERY easily.

270 ohm, 1/4 watt. I am using infrared LED's with a rating of 1.3V and 20ma. If my calculations are correct.... (9v - 3.9v) = 5.1, 5.1 / 0.020 = 255 ohm resistor.

Hi guys and gals, I tried a super simple DIY project, basically 3 LED's powered by a 9V battery... I followed this diagram: So I connected the battery positive to the resistor, resistor to + LED 1, - LED 1 to + LED2, - LED2 to + LED3, - LED3 to - battery. Simple, right? Lights are...

Good observations, thanks for sharing. Interesting that the Fiio has a standard cross-feed without an on/off switch for it.

Well I was reading in a thread quite a while ago that ASIO should disable volume control... but then some people are still able to. If you don't hear any audible difference, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. But I would also say, that if you are able to set your DAC to receive 100% volume...

How I understood it was that you are not running an analog signal at all, it's a digital one (obviously), so unless you are running it at full volume, like tomb mentions, then you are altering the signal and changing it from it's original form. You want the DAC to work with an unaltered signal...

Quote: Originally Posted by error401 For ground I just used the negative lead of the main power cap as a star ground and soldered wires to it for each ground connection. Gets a bit messy with a huge, hard to melt solder blob, but it works fine. Ah okay, great. I'm a big noob at...

@error401, So you did you use the case for grounding?

Well there's a good answer That looks very do-able, looks great as well! I was thinking of trying to stick this DAC in with my Millett Starving Student, but I think the CableDac looks good, plus I'd be able to use it with more than one amp.

I see, thanks for the quick reply!

Quote: Originally Posted by ruZZ.il No, The BantamDAC is still strictly USB input, by design. You'll have to look elsewhere to have those features in a DAC.. but it wont come at the same price :P Alright, well then everyone is going to have to excuse my ignorance, please...

So by cable dac, you mean SPDIF or optical in as well?

Whoops, didn't realize me asking about that would cause such a commotion. I was just curious because the original BOM was what, $40? That one is being sold for $200. Anyways, back on track....

Quote: Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict It would have been about $200 for a similarly upgraded Millett SS from rds when I was looking for one. Pretty expensive parts I see.