I ended up stripping the guts from the powered speaker, cutting the crossover from the PCB, and wired it up as a passive. I put a £20 Lepai amp on the back and have a reasonably nice sound from them, once I'd plugged up all the holes left behind after removing the old electrics. I've a pair of...

Yup. Live and learn - I hope.

No luck with replacement boards, so I pulled all of the electronics from the left speaker, sawed the crossover part of the PCB off, plugged the holes in the back panel, glued the crossover inside on a block of wood (neoprene mounted) and soldered the leads from the old PCB to it and connected...

I contacted AEUSA about mine with this problem. They (Marshall) said they had had a few reports of the problem described here, but hadn't found a cause for it, and anyway mine were out of warranty, so goodbye. I'm pretty sure this is common enough to be a design fault, which, if they admit to...

I replaced 4 caps, one blown, 2 leaking and one for good measure, but problem still present. I'm awaiting a response from Audioengine USA to see if they can supple replacement boards.

I contacted their authorised supplier here in the UK by email. They replied that I should get in touch with AEUSA.   I've since taken it fully apart and found 2 more caps that have leaked from the bottom. I might as well clean up and replace them. If that doesn't work, I'll do as you say and...

Thanks for the reply.   The crossovers are already there, but the one in the LH speaker is part of the main PCB. Maybe it can be cut off. But it would be nice to see if anyone has a fix for the basic fault that started off as the swishing noise others have reported before it went really bad.

My A5s are way out of warranty, and I've just started to get the snap, crackle and pop noise with no input connected, and regardless of volume setting (it needs an input to get out of sleep mode, but thereafter unplugging the input doesn't stop the noises).   I took the guts out of the powered...