That's a really good point. Do an external mod inline with a cable to figure out the desired FR first. Haha, so simple. Thanks!

Man, all these recommendations to use hot glue. I've never seen the stuff hold well, especially for long term use. Well, except maybe googly eyes on felt or paper. Use epoxy or E6000 if you can. For blocking holes I imagine hot glue is fine but not for something that will see mechanical stress.

I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I recently purchased a pair of HD681 EVOs, listened to them for about 10 minutes and then set to modifying them based on observations and issues. So far I haven't put in the filter to drop the bass (I'm a bit of a basshead) but it...

Ahhh interesting. Thanks for the tip about the extra low gain mod, that'll be helpful. Glad to know that you can run something like the V6 without burning them up. I'm currently using the Fidelio X1's and at 30Ohms, they're obviously very easy to drive.

Hi all,   Firstly thanks for all of the input you've provided about the Ember. I've gone over a lot of threads about the Ember and am fairly set on purchasing one in the not too distant future. One thing that I'm concerned about (and I have emailed with Jeremy about) is the use of low...

Thanks for the reply Casper! I'm considering some 26awg twisted and shielded pair wire that I found on eBay being sold by navships and jacketing it further with type 1/#95 paracord. Smaller and more discrete than using the quad Mogami.   I also came across these two in case anyone is...

Hi All,   Thanks for posting up the information and pictures (definitely) of your mods. I've been inspired to use the mogami quad wire and have covered it with a colored sheath from 550 paracord. I'm currently working on how to replace the wire for the right driver. Would 24 or 26 gauge...

Very true this is. As we're also finding, the capacitors used in the T1's manufacture also vary. I have Lelon caps in mine and am curious what it'll sound like with those changed out for better quality versions. I'm aware of small and large saucer getters. What other type is there?

So that's either a 4th week of November 1967 or 1977 made in Heerlen, Holland. I'm leaning toward a 1967 because of the ring getter. Anyone else? The delta symbol is more like a right triangle correct? Also, as I've got several Amperex tubes, I've found that I prefer certain variants/dates of...

Someone more knowledgeable please correct me if I'm wrong here. I believe all Voskhod have the rocket logo as that was the company/plant logo. Also I'm not sure but I think Voskhod never made a -EB/V variant of the 6N23P. I wish they had because I've found the Reflektor 6N23P-EV to be inferior...

Quote: Awesome!!! Thanks for collecting this info. I have a few of these pages bookmarked as well. This should be linked to in the first post here if it's not already.

I was just curious. That sounds great! I just finished a prototype ring guard adapter using acrylic. It looks great with the LED on. This is a very unprofessional mobile phone pic but you get the idea.

A wooden tube guard?

Definitely a nice write up! Thanks!

Haha! I was totally thinking about doing the same thing!

Quote: That's purty right there!! Caused me to go look up the Pi and all it's recent developments. Thanks!

Quote: Tape would be a very bad idea. Handle the areas of the tube with the labels as little as possible. Your fingers will rub them off relatively easily.

Hah! I just pulled my T1 apart and indeed found a TI N5532A opamp. However, this is not a dip8 socket style opamp. It's a surface mount and putting a dip socket where the opamp is would be prohibitively annoying. I'm sure someone sells an adapter to go from surface mount to socket mount but...

After doing some more reading on the topic of rolling opamps I don't think I'll be doing it. I recently read an article written by NWAVGuy (the guy who created the O2 amp and the ODAC) on subject and it totally called into question the common practice of changing out opamps. The guy isn't a god...

Quote:   Fair enough. In the scheme of things there are very excellent and inexpensive tubes for this amp and they sound great. It's relative though. I recently purchased a NOS pair of really great tubes for my Little Dot that cost me $10USD shipped. Typically I spend anywhere from...

Ahhhh, the Pan Am costs over three times more than the T1. I don't understand. One is a cheap tube with a solid state amplifier and the other is a tube amplifier with a solid state DAC. If you've got the money, buy the ALO. The tubes for the T1 are great for audio but expensive. The tubes for...

Not really. Not in the way that I think you're asking about. It wouldn't change soundstage or timbre or that sort of thing. I suppose if your cans aren't being powered sufficiently at +0db then it's possible you'd miss some small details and a good bit of the bass section. Someone correct me please!

Quote: As in what does changing the output gain do?   It changes the gain from +0db, +10db and +16db.   Gain in this case is an increase in voltage to the headphone jack. This is a greater amplification of the outgoing audio and is useful if you have high impedance headphones. I...

Quote: You must use the USB input on the T1 in order to use the tube DAC built into it. It has to be connected to a computer (or some Android devices). I'm unclear about how you would use a USB-S/PDIF converter with your current setup though I'm assuming you'd like to run it between your...

There are likely other reasons group buys cannot be discussed on this site. I imagine some reasons, as suggested are quality concerns. Linked to that are support issues of the kind we're seeing talked about now. Yazen needs to contact the group buy site, not this thread. Posts about that site...