Disclaimers 1. I am not as knowledegable as many others on the forum. As such, I am closer to a consumer than I am an audiophile or even an audio enthusiast. 2. I have purposefully kept myself out of the loop when it comes to headphone reviews. I have not even read the rest of the thread. About...

Honestly, I have a Bottlehead Crack and Speedball with the 650, but it is so big and heavy that I cannot use it often. I have been using a Burson Soloist, which is slightly smaller, makes less noise, but is slightly heavier. The 650 sounds fantastic.    Regarding the topic at hand of...

I am interested in purchasing a pair of headphones with a budget of 1000 USD. These are the criteria I'm looking for:   Comfortable Fantastic build quality Huge soundstage Musical, not purely technical: I don't want a pair of headphones that are technically fantastic. I want a pair of...

It could also be noise related to static. After putting ferrite beads on my cables, I had considerably less static-related issues.

I have not tried the majority of the choices you provided.   These are the amps that I have tried:   Burson Soloist  Schiit Magni 1.0  Schiit Magni 2.0   These are the dacs that I have tried:   Schiit Modi Schiit Modi 2U Schiit Bifrost   These are the amp/dacs that I have tried:  ...

Right. The only thing I remember between the DT varieties is that there are differences between the premium and pro lines. I don't know if there really is a difference between the pro and studio lines though.

I don't know much about the Soloist SL, but I love the Soloist with the HD 650 and the NightHawk. 

@timind I was looking into that when I was first interested in purchasing a pair of DT 770s. I ended up with the conclusion that the second picture you posted is the older version and the top picture is the newest one. I believe that the only difference is in the cable (straight vs coiled)...

You have to keep in mind three things: 1) that there is so much misinformation out there; 2) people exaggerate differences between headphones 3)noticeable differences may only happen with high quality equipment. 1) People who haven't heard headphones recite what other people have said as fact...

Wow. It feels as if you just released Ether Flow-C. I think it is pretty incredible that your company has been outputting products at such an incredible rate.

@Bern2 Portable? I thought they leaked sound.

I can't wait to hear your opinions since it seems like you've heard just about everything.

I have a pair of NightHawks that I will hopefully get to listen to this weekend. Since people are saying that the sound is similar to the NightOwl, I may just listen to the NightHawk for a while and make a decision later.

@shurealltheway   Hmm... now I'm stuck. I was planning on getting a pair of SRH 1540s because the SRH 840 is one of my favorite headphones I've ever owned. However, these NightOwls sound like they could be what I'm looking for. 

@shurealltheway How would you describe the sound signature?

Honestly, you have to take some of these things with a grain of salt. People are talking about relatively minor differences. The difference between the Fazor and non-Fazor is subtle in comparison to having a LCD-2 and not having one. My suggestion? You purchased these awesome headphones. Spend...

I ended up having a bit too crazy of a night, and so I just woke up. I'll just have to live until the next meetup, I suppose.

Is it too late to sign up? I would like to stop by. If there isn't enough room for my stuff, I totally get it.

For those of you who have build the speedball upgrade, do you suggest building the Crack with speedball upgrade in one go or do you suggest building the Crack, testing it and then upgrading it with the speedball?

Yeah. I probably won't be able to buy it for a month or so. I might just wait until the next speedball sale so I can get both at the same time. In the mean time, I'm going to solder everything.

I have a 5 inch/17.5cm wire cutter/stripper and a 5 inch/17.5cm long nose pliers. I forgot about the base. I do need wood glue and some paint.

Well, I understand that I need those items. Some people suggested getting a soldering iron that can run 600 degrees Farenheit and others said I need an iron that can run 600 degrees Celsius. That's a pretty big difference, and I still haven't figured out which one is correct, although 600 F...

So I was looking this up, and I found a lot of information from a few years ago. I'm sure it's still relevant, but I might as well ask again. I am interested in building the Crack and don't have any equipment (iron, solder etc.). With a $50 budget, what equipment would you suggest? Or do I...

Why is that?   I have heard great things about their customer service. I just don't want to deal with the shipping fees.