If I'm not wrong, the FIIO FW5 supports LHDC and not LDAC... unfortunately.. I would be interested if something similar to the FiiO UTWS5and with LDAC support would be available from any other manufacturer in the market.. Kr, tent:wq

actually I was using the "pimeta" style called "unity" boost.. just putting tha cap across r4 and a switch as well to set it off.. R4 is indeed 4.7k and the cap is 0.1uF from some suggested sentence.. maybe that's the reason about this "huge" bass boost?   tent:wq PS: by the way the...

IT WORKED! The C4- and C4+ writings I was referencing at were the ones on the top side not on the bottom side (that where as well reversed.. ;)) but at the end I also used the opportunity to get rid ot those tants and am using now instead some good and huge richmond 4.7uF MKTs unpolarized. But...

woa! that was a hint indeed! thanks! I will do the desoldering and resoldering of the cap in correct orientation and let you know asap!   tent:wq  

uhm.. also this seems to be a good point! But first of all let's say I interpreted the writings on the PCB like that: C4- writing means the - leg of the cap should go in the hole nearest to the - sign of the C4- writing, correct? I interpreted the opposite for the other tant: the - leg of the...

actually I just wrote I've used two black tantalum caps in C+ and C- (22uF, 16V, with black drop ceramic coating) but I'm starting to have some suspect those are some old tants that might somehow have issues? could I test that? or should I simply try to substitute them? But definitely I have not...

uhm... interesting.. I read 684ohm between both chip's V- and IG and somehow infinite resistance between V+ and IG (the ohmmeter counts up till out of scale..) I can try to make some better high res shots of the board if needed or the short could be in some cap or else (for instance I decided...

Hello,  I was out of town but finally back.. actually without good news: without ICs the issue was still there, so I ordered and replaced the TLE2426.. bit without success, everything still unbalanced.. :( what could it be?? :(     tent:wq  

no success so far.. I keep seeing this "unbalanced" voltages about everywhere on the board.. across C4+ the 2.55V and across C4- 5.65V, etc..  is there some specific measurement I could do to try to isolate the component or area where the issue could be? (for example if some cap or some ic, etc)...

No problem.. I also did not understand you were referring to those as per "green caps".. ;) anyway suggestions for next steps? should I dismantle and start over from the beginning? I would maybe try to: - susbtitute the split rail ic2 - swap the PSU caps.. they were some samsung caps I...

Quote:   I checked carefully and I really do not find any short or similar.. no contact evident between IC2 and C3.. what could I've done wrong? (The green caps are very good caps for the C6 positions, Im using 12pf and I suppose it is correct to put them across R6 positions.. the bass...

Quote:   I've attached some pics.. but let me know if I should upload them in some separate image hosting, zoom in some specific place or take it out from the cables.             But still wondering how it could be that just on V+ there is a fixed voltage value...

ok sorry for posting so much but I dared to make some further investigation step: I tried to measure the difference between V-/V+ and OG also with the amp powered with the wall wart (12V) and indeed some further odd result comes out: -11.75V vs 2.55V (curiously enough the 2.55V is same as with...

I also wanted to point out again that now that I'm using two green "normal" or low voltage leds the problem of the green led1 to change brightness is not there anymore.. So now for example I have full battery (giving 9.24V when amp is off, 9.04V when on and going down slowly, like 0.01V each...

ok, maybe I'm missing then what you mean by testing the battery terminals at the amp... do you mean measuring difference between V- and V+? Or just on the "batt" 4 pins plug? I really think there is no difference between measuring it at the battery terminals o at the pins.. anyway I've now...

Ok at the moment I measured voltage unloaded and it was 8.05V but if I turn the pimetav2 on the voltage will quickly go down (the battery was almost empty) so not really able to tell the voltage drop difference when turning BIAS on/off.. so definitely need to charge the battery first..   I...

Uhm.. ok then let me check carefully what it could be...   First of all the battery: I just discovered it is a 8.4V 200mAh NiMH and not 7.2V like I belived... not easy to understand which is the matching datasheet tough.. basically it is this one...

I've now listened to it anyway with this setup (no BIAS, one OPA2132 in OPALR and one LM6171 in OPAG) with the ipod and the Fiio Line out and I have to say it really sounds amazing there! The bass boost circuit is a bit too much even if impressive itself as well, no particulare difference...

Hello, news and updates: I've managed to get around a single opamp for OPAG and still the difference between IG and V+ is 3.00V and IG and V- is -4.71V with my 7.2VNiMH 9V battery.. still do you think it's ok, Warren?   I've also tested further: There is no DC offset between OL or OR and OG...

Wow thanx Misterx! ;) Why do they use such confusing and cumbersome numering system to name their chips??   tent:wq

Thank you Warren. I think I'll use OPA134 then to match it with my OPA2132s... but one question still for my understanding: if instead I would like to use OPALR with LM4562NA, what would you suggest better in OPAG? OPA227 or OPA134? I understood that LM4562 has no single version companion...

uhm.. I see.. so I'll need to figure out how to get a single opamp like opa132 since I have some opa2132s and put it in opag and recheck again. Thanks!   tent:wq   PS: btw. I just noticed that on texas' site the OPA132P is considered obsolete, only U version is available.. so what would...

yes, I dit that indeed in meantime.. I was lazy and threw in the question while up-ping.. ;) anyway, since I'm still without any single opamp I'll need to search about one (I have only dual opamps ghosh!), now I started firstly in testing the PSU by checking V+ and V- compared to IG with my...

up? ;)   I'd also like to add another newbie question: do I need to put single opamp at the OPAG socket or if I have just double opamps is it ok to use a double also in this one?   thanks in advance, tent:wq  

Hello,  does anybody of you try to add to the pimeta v2 a preamp out connector by adding a dual opamp in the scratchpad area? Something like suggested by Warren in the tweaks section. Maybe you are able to show some hint/idea/picture about how it was done? I'm looking into correctly wiring the...