I haven't checked in on this thread in quite a while, but there's some amazing stuff happening here! Kudos to everyone pushing the limits of DIY tech.

Haven't been keeping up with this thread, so maybe this has already been covered, but what I want to know is how you made those hollow shells!

I apologize for momentarily hijacking this thread but I have something to get off my chest. I had a run in with the Head-Fi police yesterday. As I stated in my previous post, I had been thinking for a while that it would be fun to make IEMs for other people on Head-Fi, not even for the purpose...

Elias, what the hell is your profile pic???

I'm going to order some Sonion balanced armature drivers from Colsan Micro which is in the UK (I'm in the US). I'm not sure what quantity would have to be ordered to get a discount, but the shipping will probably be enough that getting more people involved would be worth it. If anyone's...

OK, I got pricing info. The Sonion drivers are a lot less than the Knowles drivers, to my surprise. Since I have to have them shipped from the UK I thought I would ask anyone if they're interested in a small group by to save on shipping. Also, I know this is a DIY forum and all, but I'd be more...

Alright, I got an explanation about driving the tweeter half coil. I mean, I still don't really understand what "half coil" means, but this is how you do it: They sent me some other information that might be proprietary to Sonion so I don't want to post it, but with the two drivers they...

Quote: Originally Posted by Bilavideo I realize engineers are trained - and paid - to work things out mathematically, which is economically preferable to trial and error. But given the number of variables at work, there's nothing quite like trial and error to test - and dismiss - a...

Quote: Originally Posted by Bilavideo I think you've found it. I think I just need to go back and re-read where you found it. Warner Tech Care, the DIY IEM builder's superstore. It's made by Dreve. They refer to all of the products for hearing aids/IEMs as otoplastiks. It's...

Quote: Originally Posted by jcx the HissBuster thread shows a divider on the amp output which lowers drive Z - the higher the attenuation you need the lower you can make the output Z of the divider I'd just like to point out, going back to what I said a while ago, this HissBuster...

Knurled nut driver

You don't have to buy paired cable, it's pretty easy to make your own. Just take two stands of wire and twist them together. This is the Y joint of a headphone cable that I made with 30g wire.

Are you talking about a domed hex nut? Could you post a photo?

Quote: Originally Posted by poo Marozie, of course "has turned into an inanely complex argument over a really simple question." It's an audio forum!!! Yes, well, sometimes people get a little carried away following the rabbit hole. It's one thing if you're going to build and amp...

Dude, it's going to cost you all of $5 to make yourself an adapter. If you don't like the way it sounds you haven't really lost anything. And in my opinion there is no appreciable degredation to sound quality as long as you keep your resistor values reasonably low. Christ, some companies give...

I could be entirely wrong, but since the gain of the amp is determined via resistors (at least in the Jung Multiloop and the like) what's the difference if that resistance is coming just before the output of the amp or just after it?

You need to use a stereo connector with three leads (for tip, ring, sleeve) and you need to connect the grounds. Just use a spare piece of wire or a clipped resistor lead. And be sure to insulate the ground wire and the left and right "wires" (I realize in your case they'll just be the...

I agree, anything between 50 and 75 ohms is a good place to start. I actually made a little interconnect with the resistors soldering into the wires for this purpose, and yes it achieves what you are trying to do without negatively impacting the sound.

I was waiting for a nice sunny weekend to try out the UV lacquer, which ended up being today. It worked like a charm. It cured in a matter of minutes in direct sunlight. Unlike the nailpolish, which has a very tacky surface even after it dries which made it at times a bit of a challenge to get...

Have a look at my thread. I took apart my Custom 2s, recabling would be fairly easy...

Yeah, this definitely seems to be the hard part. It seems like there's inherent toxicity with liquid plastics which is mostly due to the chemicals that are used as solvents, or in the case of epoxies the hardener component. The biggest problem is that outside of the medical device industry (and...

Quote: Originally Posted by pdupiano Some possible reasons why medical UV lights are expensive: 1) Specific spectral range: -While a large range of LEDs may produce 395nm wavelengths, they may also produce a wide range of wave lengths and the over all "power" is decreased (Bandwidth...

I've come across countless posts about the crappy cable on the Klipsch Custom series and several people have asked about recabling them. I recently made a pair of IEMs so my Custom 2s became expendable. While I didn't actually recable them I was curious to open them up and take a look, so I...

So, the LED from Mouser that SilverCans mentioned, from LED Engin, is pretty powerful: ~5V @ 1A putting out 5W. There's also a 10W (17.2V @ 1A!) version. And you can get them in very precise spectral outputs as they're made specifically for curing dental molds (which use the exact same resins as...

Quote: Originally Posted by SilverCans Hi Marozie. I kind of don't understand the face plate part, the company I spoke to the other day mentioned the use of a face plate as well. What I don't get is once the shell is made, I envision it as either one entire closed piece or two halves...