Denons spotted here (japanese font). AH-D5000, 25 Ohms, 106 dB/mW AH-D2000, 25, 106 AH-D1000, 32, 103

I hope this project isn't perceived as some kind of evil EQ attempt. The equivalent circuit of an ER-4 transducer is not so different from that of a loudspeaker, basically an inductor with a little bit of resistance and a springy bit in the middle. The objective was to take some of the bounce...

First Listen From past experience I know not to expect too much from modifications like this, and sure enough, there was momentary subjective disappointment as some of the all-too-familiar Ety "flavour" was effectively suppressed. This is especially the case when comparisons are made with short...

Here's a different way to drive any of the 4-series transducers by Etymotic. The idea is to reduce the driving impedance without sacrificing the treble/bass balance. This will improve the damping factor at the transducer's resonant frequency, to produce a more natural sound. Unfortunately...

Quote: Originally Posted by wualta Isn't this the same kind of inline attenuator that all sorts of folks complain drastically changes the sound quality when it comes already attached to the headphones? If you mean R2 plus headphones without R1 then no, that's a different beast...

True, the OP isn't around much these days, but remains most interested in this topic. Quote: Originally Posted by ken36 Publicity.

Shorting the left and right channels together is not the most elegant way to achieve mono. Here's another approach:- SW1 is a 6P4T shorting (make before break) rotary switch, quite a rare bird. With 30 connecting tabs in two layers, figuring out which is which is also a bit of fun. Once...

Connect two sets of headphones to a single source and gain control becomes an issue. Sticking an inline volume control on one pair of headphones can help, but often has the unwelcome side effect of causing the other person's headphones to get louder when you turn yours down. Plus, those things...

Um, guys, that's a bit spooky. I'm writing this reply from the Head-Fi Twilight Zone... Glad you like the metal shell connector. I think I got it in Akihabara, in the rabbit warren of component stores under the railway station. Believe it or not, at the time I was disappointed that I...

Quote: TimmyMac: If I'm looking at this right... most of the current goes through the little cross resistor then? And the phones only see a small amount of current? True, and the larger current through R1 ensures that the voltage across the phones is a faithful, scaled-down replica of...

Hi audiomagnate. Quick question - what's the power output of that Mitsubishi? I can't find any info on it, other than that it's a well regarded amp from circa 1980. The reason I ask is that you have to think about power issues when you build something like this into a device which is capable of...

Quote: Bob_McBob: How does this affect the sound of Westone UM2s? I have heard most attenutators affect it negatively, but the hiss from my iPod is really bothering me. Wow, a Westone UM2 owner. Did you know that in the spreadsheet (see link in first post) they came up as the most...

Bumpety bump. After a few weeks of use I can say this simple attenuator is a winner. All my hissy sources (soundcard, integrated amplifier etc.) are now hiss-free. They still have plenty of headroom too. My only concern is the packaging as I'm not sure it will withstand being squashed under...

Modern headphones are too sensitive. How sensitive should they be? Some people find that previous favourites like the HD580 (at 102 dB/V) are hard to drive with portable players but I've had more frustration due to the opposite problem, i.e. background hiss from headphones which are too...

Here's an easy project for those times when a 6x6 matrix stepped attenuator is overkill. An inline volume control is handy when sharing a source or to reduce background hiss. It also helps you to get a good sound from sources which don't perform well at low volume settings. Ideally, P1 would...