Yeah, the only good 14.8mm driver is proper 150 red-films IMHO. The second driver you listed can sound 'decent' with tons of back pressure, but still doesn't get close to 150 red-film--and red films get wiped clean by most 15.4mm divers IMHO.

Yeah, you'll need some air for those drivers. You can do a hole like previously stated. Or even play around with a rivet and sealing the cable hole. Love the purple with clear shells, btw. Grab some trig-rain purple foams and you'll be off.

Maybe a good multimeter is in my books later on. This one is fine enough. Cheap chinese one that came with my soldering iron, but the best I've had. Just this issue is the problem I'm facing. Edit: Scratch that. Found out the caps I have are waaaaay too high of value so they were pretty much...

I'll see if my cheapy multimeter can do that. Right now I just want to know power is going from one end to the other. Thank you!

I think I have something similar in my cart. Thanks. :thumbsup:

I'm still having no chance soldering these caps. :angry: I'm not quick to blame bad sellers or products, but none of these are working regardless of my soldering techniques. I've tried high heat, low heat, using high quality solder flux and wire, scratching the surface to expose the copper...

Thank you! Drivers are wired up correctly--just bare connections work perfectly. Maybe I'm burning them. :thinking: I've got one of those big bag combo packs with most values I don't use, so I'll try some practice/test wiring. OK, cool. I just see everyone and the makers use the larger caps...

Hey ya'll. I started DIY IEM stuff after loving DIY earbuds. It's a totally different beast compared to the plug+play ease of earbuds. So much knowledge from everyone on this board, so thankful for it all! I have a stupid question: Does SMB capacitor size matter? I ordered resistors and...

Thanks for the write up, especially on drivers I haven't tried. Really good stuff. If you haven't, I'd recommend trying different tunings of air. Wood shells can be more closed off compared to MX500s or other shells. No wonder the 64comp-ti are at the top of your list. They certainly have...

Completely sealing is bad. The technical explanation is, there needs to be enough pressure behind the driver to produce the best sound possible. Back pressure. Some drivers prefer more, while others prefer less. For example, the 64ohm full-ti sound horrible in a normal MX500 shell with just a...

I don't have these N52 drivers, but I can say you can do MUCH better. From what I hear, those drivers tend to like closed off shells more. Rivet mod might not help, but you can give it a go. Half of the drivers out there can do with more air, the other half actually need some seal to perform...

Yep, those. They're an easy recommendation for the higher price drivers.

Never heard any VE stuff, but I can recommend 300LCP based on that description. Great everything, slight W-shape, warm mids without bleed. They lack a touch of depth in soundstage compared to other drivers, but make up with detail--as per buds are.

I've heard that the cheapy shells can have some weirdness in the cable port hole, but I never had these. (I drop a drill bit down these holes to check). As for adding soundstage without too much bass, maybe drill some holes in the back of the shells. MX500 shells need more air. But, again...

I don't have the 600ohm berry because they're expensive. Modding depends on hundreds of factors. For me, when I get a new driver, I run it in the basic MX500 setup with horeshoe foam on the shell and not touching the driver. That's the baseline. I let the driver burn in (if it help, I don't...