Home-Made IEMs
Jun 12, 2017 at 4:36 PM Post #6,587 of 15,973
I did read that article, and it was written based on conflicting information that Asius and 64 audio was putting from the initial launch. I don't think Cymbacavum actually got a pair to try which is why it was written from an opionated point of view. I do know that the reviews of them when they were in 64's IEM's are great.
 
Jun 12, 2017 at 5:08 PM Post #6,588 of 15,973
That may be - I don't know. But the article does contain some nice technical information. Especially the bespoken Vanderbilt poster was useful.

I can imagine that the modules might have a positive effect. Particularly the percepted soundstage could get better.

I highly doubt though that those modules will reduce the harm caused by high listening levels.
 
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Jun 12, 2017 at 5:18 PM Post #6,589 of 15,973
That may be - I don't know. But the article does contain some nice technical information. Especially the bespoken Vanderbilt poster was useful.

I can imagine that the modules might have a positive effect. Particularly the percepted soundstage could get better.

I highly doubt though that those modules will reduce the harm caused by high listening levels.

I would agree, I'm curious to see what the effects! The article was extremely informative and has tons of useful info for sure!!!
 
Jun 13, 2017 at 3:05 PM Post #6,590 of 15,973
Hi Everybody! I've been lurking around this forum for a couple years now but thought it was about time I actually register. This is my first attempt at participating in any forum so please go easy
on me:)

I thought the same thing, so wouldn't that represent the most realistic reproduction of the ear drum? Nothing a pin hole couldn't fix, ! I'm excited to play around with them to see if it's something viable for us DIY'ers. I wasn't willing to spend more than that just to try them out, I was apprehensive about spend 40bucks lol.

If you ordered the O1, you might be in for a bit of disappointment. I'm not 100% certain but I do believe it's just a solid plug without any kind of membrane so that you can hear the IEM without ADEL.
If I'm wrong, hopefully someone can correct me.
 
Jun 13, 2017 at 3:29 PM Post #6,591 of 15,973
To echo @Dirtrider's statement, the O1 is a solid piece of metal that can't be turned into a B1 or a G1, as it doesn't have an actual membrane. A pinhole would theoretically let air travel in-and-out of the IEM, but it won't effectively relieve pneumatic pressure to the absence of a diaphragm (in the case of the B1), or two diaphragms (in the case of the G1). It's not even an ADEL module per se; it's what you buy if you want to turn an ADEL IEM into a non-ADEL IEM.

As someone who has an ADEL-equipped IEM and has compared it with the non-ADEL variant, I can say its health benefits are very tangible. Personally, my left ear gets fatigued quicker than my right, and after an hour or so of listening to a non-ADEL IEM, I get pseudo channel imbalance, but in terms of dynamics and focus rather than volume or SPL. This never occurs with my ADEL IEM. Ear fatigue also sets in much slower with ADEL, maintaining sharp aural focus and consistent perceived listening levels for much longer.

However, I must say that its effects on sound are much more mixed. ADEL technology relies on venting, which means a loss in isolation. This loss in isolation also causes a reduction in mid-bass warmth. Given, this causes the bass to be less congested, and more airy and natural in its presentation, but it may cause lean IEMs to sound anaemic and thin down low, and incoherent. Also, its soundstage expansion is at a cost of imaging accuracy and resolution. Because the details are further away, perceived resolution takes a hit, and imaging becomes smeared as the soundstage is somewhat stretched. If you're someone who values resolution and critical listening a lot, you may find yourself pumping up the volume to counteract the loss in isolation and in an attempt to bring up the details, eventually counteracting the effects of ADEL by exposing yourself to excessive levels of SPL.

ADEL is definitely a give and take. Its health benefits are real, but they come at a cost of an altered sonic presentation, and they can only be taken advantage of in the right circumstances. Here, you can obviously tune your IEMs to work well with the effects of ADEL, but I reckon it'll take a bit more work than simply plugging it in.
 
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Jun 14, 2017 at 3:21 AM Post #6,592 of 15,973
To echo @Dirtrider's statement, the O1 is a solid piece of metal that can't be turned into a B1 or a G1, as it doesn't have an actual membrane. A pinhole would theoretically let air travel in-and-out of the IEM, but it won't effectively relieve pneumatic pressure to the absence of a diaphragm (in the case of the B1), or two diaphragms (in the case of the G1). It's not even an ADEL module per se; it's what you buy if you want to turn an ADEL IEM into a non-ADEL IEM.

As someone who has an ADEL-equipped IEM and has compared it with the non-ADEL variant, I can say its health benefits are very tangible. Personally, my left ear gets fatigued quicker than my right, and after an hour or so of listening to a non-ADEL IEM, I get pseudo channel imbalance, but in terms of dynamics and focus rather than volume or SPL. This never occurs with my ADEL IEM. Ear fatigue also sets in much slower with ADEL, maintaining sharp aural focus and consistent perceived listening levels for much longer.

However, I must say that its effects on sound are much more mixed. ADEL technology relies on venting, which means a loss in isolation. This loss in isolation also causes a reduction in mid-bass warmth. Given, this causes the bass to be less congested, and more airy and natural in its presentation, but it may cause lean IEMs to sound anaemic and thin down low, and incoherent. Also, its soundstage expansion is at a cost of imaging accuracy and resolution. Because the details are further away, perceived resolution takes a hit, and imaging becomes smeared as the soundstage is somewhat stretched. If you're someone who values resolution and critical listening a lot, you may find yourself pumping up the volume to counteract the loss in isolation and in an attempt to bring up the details, eventually counteracting the effects of ADEL by exposing yourself to excessive levels of SPL.

ADEL is definitely a give and take. Its health benefits are real, but they come at a cost of an altered sonic presentation, and they can only be taken advantage of in the right circumstances. Here, you can obviously tune your IEMs to work well with the effects of ADEL, but I reckon it'll take a bit more work than simply plugging it in.

Thank you for your interesting input! Nice to hear someone's opinion having dealt with it for a few months.
Regarding the "pumping up the volume to compensate" was an issue I also thought about. It seems like the Adel can be a double edge sword if not used correctly.
 
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Jun 15, 2017 at 1:26 PM Post #6,593 of 15,973
I know this is off current topic (sorry). Im currently trying to make a clear shell. When I take the shell out of the investment I put it in glycerin, put it under the uv light, then put it in alcohol. Take it out and do all my sanding, then it goes back in alcohol. Dry the alcohol up with a dryer and wipe the shell out. (These are steps I've gotten from Shiliohsjustice many pages back).
But my question is, does the alcohol make everyone else's shells dull? I'm not worried about the exterior cause I can buff or lacquer it. But just not sure what to do with the interior. I want them to be as clear as possible and I'm afraid they won't be with them being somewhat dull on the inside. Maybe I'm doing something wrong in the steps listed above. 8-/
Thanks!
 
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Jun 15, 2017 at 5:34 PM Post #6,594 of 15,973
I know this is off current topic (sorry). Im currently trying to make a clear shell. When I take the shell out of the investment I put it in glycerin, put it under the uv light, then put it in alcohol. Take it out and do all my sanding, then it goes back in alcohol. Dry the alcohol up with a dryer and wipe the shell out. (These are steps I've gotten from Shiliohsjustice many pages back).
But my question is, does the alcohol make everyone else's shells dull? I'm not worried about the exterior cause I can buff or lacquer it. But just not sure what to do with the interior. I want them to be as clear as possible and I'm afraid they won't be with them being somewhat dull on the inside. Maybe I'm doing something wrong in the steps listed above. 8-/
Thanks!

After the glycerin bath, you should not have to put the shell in alcohol, it should be fully cured and just a rinse of water will rinse the glycerin right off.
When the resin if fully cured, i found the alcohol in no way affects the shell clearness.
Maybe the shell is not fully cured in the glycerin bath....
 
Jun 16, 2017 at 11:08 AM Post #6,595 of 15,973
General tube and damper guidance for novice. I've searched on the subject but ended up a bit confused and still pretty unclear on preferred or best practice on tube configuration. I do realize that this is all part of the tuning process, but looking for a leg up in guidance on what seems to be preferable from those with experience. Still pretty new to the discussion. For my questions, I'm assuming that #16 is 1mm/2mm and 13 is 2mm/3mm.
In my initial 2 driver build I did the following: BA >> #16 for 5 to 7 cm (tweet/woof)>> to short piece of #13 to house the damper >> back to #16 to exit ear. It seems to work quite well for my initial use as a stage monitor, but I'm ready to start tinkering with some new builds. So, not even knowing if I'm even asking the right questions, here's a few for starters:
1: Length and id influences on freq response and volume.
2: Is bigger id better if it will fit to the canal tip?
3: Influences on location of damper in tube relative to BA or exit to ear canal.
4: I'm focused on BA's, but do dynamic drivers respond differently to tube size/length?

Thanks in advance. I'm simply amazed by the creativity and expertise on this forum.
 
Jun 16, 2017 at 11:44 AM Post #6,596 of 15,973
After the glycerin bath, you should not have to put the shell in alcohol, it should be fully cured and just a rinse of water will rinse the glycerin right off.
When the resin if fully cured, i found the alcohol in no way affects the shell clearness.
Maybe the shell is not fully cured in the glycerin bath....


Like Brian said, if it's fully cured Alcohol will not affect it. You likely still have an inhibition later. Try curing it longer in the glycerin bath.

I rinse in alcohol because water can leave water spots, especially if you do not know the quality of water you have, the alcohol does not leave spots and is a controllable variable.
 
Jun 16, 2017 at 12:31 PM Post #6,597 of 15,973
Hi,

I just re-shelled some GK drivers using some cheap IEMs I bought on Aliexpress: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/Bran...-ear-sport-moving-coil-Noise/32577767745.html. I was using a Shure replica but it had some rough edges that made it uncomfortable. These are much more comfy and isolate well, and for the same price you get a cable, mmcx connectors and some dynamic drivers to play with. I also wanted to try out the GK with separate tubes and filters.

Green filter for the TWFK and a red one for the CI. Due to the constrained space, I separated the drivers and tucked the TWFK close to the spout, and the CI ended up with about 5 cm of tubing. Getting everything to fit was a nightmare and required some reworking of the inside of the shell... but in the end it was well worth it. I filled in the spout with hot glue around the silicone tubes before trimming off the excess to seal it and it turned out pretty well - I tried listening before and after and the difference was huge.They now sound outstanding and are nice and comfortable. I also covered the faceplate with some 5D carbon fibre vinyl (pic doesn't do it justice...). Not even near as good looking as the CIEMs on here but still more than happy!
IMG_20170616_181703.jpg
 
Jun 16, 2017 at 1:23 PM Post #6,598 of 15,973
General tube and damper guidance for novice. I've searched on the subject but ended up a bit confused and still pretty unclear on preferred or best practice on tube configuration. I do realize that this is all part of the tuning process, but looking for a leg up in guidance on what seems to be preferable from those with experience. Still pretty new to the discussion. For my questions, I'm assuming that #16 is 1mm/2mm and 13 is 2mm/3mm.
In my initial 2 driver build I did the following: BA >> #16 for 5 to 7 cm (tweet/woof)>> to short piece of #13 to house the damper >> back to #16 to exit ear. It seems to work quite well for my initial use as a stage monitor, but I'm ready to start tinkering with some new builds. So, not even knowing if I'm even asking the right questions, here's a few for starters:
1: Length and id influences on freq response and volume.
2: Is bigger id better if it will fit to the canal tip?
3: Influences on location of damper in tube relative to BA or exit to ear canal.
4: I'm focused on BA's, but do dynamic drivers respond differently to tube size/length?

Thanks in advance. I'm simply amazed by the creativity and expertise on this forum.

If you go to Sonion's website, you will find a lot of helpful PDF's that cover those topics. Look for one called "Designing Earphones" .
 
Jun 17, 2017 at 5:24 PM Post #6,599 of 15,973
I had an extra GV and GQ at the house and was thinking about putting them together to see what kind of sound would be produced. I was thinking about doing it in parallel but then I didn't know if that would have an effect on the crossover on each set of speakers. Would wiring them in series be any better?
 
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