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Tempting new Virtual Dynamics power cord-- $50! - Page 9  

post #121 of 698

head-fi voodoo

OK, head-fiers. I surrender. I phoned Rick and got VD. My dose consists in one Power 3 (b-stock) and one Basic Cryo power cord. Rick said that the Power 3 has better connectors, but that the cryo is really cool (pun), so that it is hard to say which will actually sound better.
So even though I planned to try only one, I had to get both and commit myself to marathon a/b sessions.

Thanks Head-Fi, I guess.
post #122 of 698
daycart1,
I've been itching to try one of those cables but still have alot of doubts about their benefits. And if there are any benefits to be had, I would probably not be able to discern.
In anycase, let me know if you can hear any difference.
post #123 of 698
Still...................waiting for my two VD Ref cords, shipping has not been too efficient for my 2nd order, another call may be necessary as shipping date seems to be constantly changing.

Daycart.........very clever the Rene Des Cartes avatar.
post #124 of 698
Darkclouds: are you still in OC? PM me if so, and we can see if we can have coffee or something at UCI.
My surmise is that powercords make a big difference when there are RFI/EMI problems and not otherwise (since the power comes from a lousy power company line in the first place etc.). But it is hard to know whether you have subtle interference problems until you try stuff with good shielding.

Darkangel: Your avatar is pretty interesting as well.
Is that "Vampirella"? My kid brother was her assistant (head of fan club or some such) for a while--no kidding! His regular job is being personal assistant to Alice Cooper (no kidding!), but while Alice was in detox at one point, he had to work for Vampirella instead (what's her real name--Cassandra Peters, or some such?)



Rick seemed like a great guy to deal with; I hope the shipping isn't a problem. How did you decide on the reference cords? I was going to get the cheapest, then asked about demos/returns, then got confused about what was best for me at the price.

I seem to be conversing with the darkside of head-fi!
post #125 of 698
OMG
The heavy artillery has arrived, VD Reference Cryo AC cords:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/darkangel...iew=t&.hires=t

Fortunately as can be seen by picture the VD Audition, Reference, and Signature cords will retain shape they are bent to which makes them easier to use vs lower end VD cords.

Wow, that smurf blue color matches my cardas smurf cable for Senn 600.............heh,heh,heh
post #126 of 698
Thread Starter 
My Sig Cryos came. They are a foot shorter than the Power 3s, though interestingly, they feel much lighter than the Power 3's than you'd expect even for being a foot shorter. These bent and held their shape, making installation much easier but still not fun. My LEAST favorite thing in the whole wide world of audio is having to fuss with the unreachable tangle of cords behind my gear.

Anyway, these don't look exactly like DarkAngels's Reference (they're a step up in the line), they're all black and the connectors look slightly different.

Anyway, after some minimal burn-in I'll post impressions.

markl
post #127 of 698
What I want to know is, what's the bend radius of one of those cords?
post #128 of 698
Thread Starter 
Eric,
Where I said the Power 3 could require as much as 12 inches behind the component, the Sig Cryo (and presumably the Audition and Reference) only needs about 6 inches.

markl
post #129 of 698
I agree with 6" bend clearance for 3 cable VD cords.

Mark even though its only been 1/2 day it is clear the VD Ref AC cords are having much greater positive impact on my sound than the VD Sig ICs did. Mostly thats because the Sigs were replacing an already excellent HG Silver Lace IC while The Ref AC cords were replacing $50 Absolutes.........don't have to listen hard to hear big improvement, more comments to come.

Also now that you have some expensive AC cords I highly recommend replacing your $1 AC wall recepticle you plug your audio gear into with good aftermarket one for @$50, VD even sells these but I use PS Audio Power Port:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/darkangel...iew=t&.hires=t
post #130 of 698
Thread Starter 
DarkAngel,
I'm no electrician . How hard is it to replace the receptacle? Is there soldering involved? What sort of tools are required?

OK, Can't resist, I have three observations about the Sig Cryos straight off the bat:

1. If you thought the Power 3 had "too much" bass-- stay away from the Sig Cryo! I have never heard bass like this through my R10s before. Fan-friggin'-tastic!

2. Someone else observed earlier (Hirsh?) that the Power 3 seemed to cause an apparent increase in volume over the stock cord at same volume setting. I'm not sure I heard that with the Power 3's in my system, but with the Sig Cryo, it's unmistakeable. That's very very interesting to me.

3. Hmmm... I have to admit that the Power 3 might be "darker" sounding than the Sig Cryo. There's a lot on top and bottom with the new cables. Yet mids are emphasized too as singing voices seem "louder" and more "present" than before, and come through even more clearly with more force than before. Thin-sounding, these cables are NOT!

More to come...

markl
post #131 of 698
Replacing a receptacle is easy, and requires only a screwdriver (although having a wire cutter and electrical tape nearby doesn't hurt).

However step one is critical: Go to your circuit box, and shut off the current to the outlet to be replaced. If you have any trouble with step one, STOP NOW! and let an electrician do it.

Once there is no current at the outlet, simply unscrew the cover plate and the outlet, and make note of which wires go where. Unscrew and release the wiring, and then put the whole thing back together. You'll have a positive lead, a negative lead, and a ground for a total of three connections to make. Some outlets use the outlet box itself as a ground (improperly, IMO). In that case, you may have to create a ground connect from the outlet to the wall mount, if your replacement outlet isn't self-grounding.

After making sure that all electrical contacts are screwed into place securely, I wrap electrical tape around the outlet to cover the connections, and then screw everything back into place. The whole process takes about ten minutes, if that. I use a volt meter to make sure I've got the correct current at the outlet before I plug anything back into it.

My main system is on a dedicated 20 amp circuit of its own.
post #132 of 698

thanks Hirsch, but....

Time for the next installment.


Quote:
Originally posted by Hirsch
My main system is on a dedicated 20 amp circuit of its own.
What's involved in THIS step? Major electrician bill? Dedicated "how far out"? Next to the power company's meter?

Thanks, as always
post #133 of 698
Here are some great instructions with pictures from PS Audio site on how to change wall recepticle........I have no electrical training but I figured even I could handle this job.

http://www.psaudio.com/articles/powe...stallation.asp

As Hirsch said you must make absolutley sure power is off before doing any work on outlet, otherwise get professional help. Besides the superior contact surface area the Power Port (really a modified hubbell model 8300) grips your plug much tighter which can be helpful when using big heavy AC cords like the VDs.
post #134 of 698
Quote:
Originally posted by DarkAngel


Also now that you have some expensive AC cords I highly recommend replacing your $1 AC wall recepticle you plug your audio gear into with good aftermarket one for @$50, VD even sells these but I use PS Audio Power Port:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/darkangel...iew=t&.hires=t
DA, have you compared your recepticle to the ACME silver (non-cryo) recepticle?
post #135 of 698
Quote:
Originally posted by pigmode


DA, have you compared your recepticle to the ACME silver (non-cryo) recepticle?
I have read other peoples comments on these but have not tried them myself, only the PS Audio units. There are many aftermarket
AC recepticles available now from several sources, pretty cost effective upgrade IMO.
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