Coming along nicely Alick 
Agreed the hook up from the rail splitter to P3 is a bit of a fiddly pisser but I can understand why it's been implemented that way but can't understand why David didn't make it easy and make that part of the board "jumperable" with zero ohm resistors. The hook up wire is a wee bit tight for comfort (space between pads) and time consuming.... I see you hooked up 0V on the underside of the board... good idea, leaves plenty of space between +V & -V on the top of the board.... I used very thin PTFE wire and hooked up all three (0V +V -V) on the top of the board.... one things for sure, you don't want to use thick wire from the rail splitter to P3, one loose strand out of place and POW goes your PSU...... I agree with you Alick...... I found this part of the build very fiddly and, quite frankly, frustrating considering the board could have been designed to use jumpers, This is one part of the design David will hopefully address. Even with pin headers it would be a bloody fiddly job ..... Jumpers are the way to go......
I notice you're using the BC caps? They're pretty good and reasonably priced did you get them from Rapid? From the size of the two yellow Nitai non polars I would guesstimate that they are 16V 1000uF? I can see the RC55Y's (300R and 1K) are in place for the LM6181 what resistors did you use for the rest of the board? They look like Trueohm 0.1% 15ppm from the pic
Looking good Alick I can't wait to hear what you think of the LM6181...... I've still got them in place and am VERY happy with the sound quality indeed...... Try the MKll with the LM6171 also, there's not much in it and it'll be interesting to learn your opinion.
Look forward to it.
All the best.
Mike.
EDIT:
Thanks for the pic it will show the difference between the PCB1 and PCB2...... they are both identical with the exception that PCB2 has provision to board mount the volco and head-socket....... other than that they are identical. It's good that two boards are available to cater for all applications:

PCB1
PCB1 is similar to the previous WNA (and can also be used as a buffer amplifier) except the pcb is a little larger; there are now "two" pairs of output devices per channel to deliver a lot more grunt into low impedance 'phones; the rail splitter is now preceded by a capacitance multiplier to make performance less dependent on the quality of the external power supply so you can now get fantastic performance using a bog standard PSU; the output caps now mount on the pcb; and each channel is now completely independent ( i.e. the amp is dual mono ) so that you can have one power supply per channel. The PCB1 is ideal for people who want to use a stepped attenuator or want to build a fully balanced system using 2 boards... It can also be used as a Dual Class A Buffer Amplifer.

PCB2
PCB2 is the same as PCB1 except that the potentiometer and headphone jack mount on the pcb.

Agreed the hook up from the rail splitter to P3 is a bit of a fiddly pisser but I can understand why it's been implemented that way but can't understand why David didn't make it easy and make that part of the board "jumperable" with zero ohm resistors. The hook up wire is a wee bit tight for comfort (space between pads) and time consuming.... I see you hooked up 0V on the underside of the board... good idea, leaves plenty of space between +V & -V on the top of the board.... I used very thin PTFE wire and hooked up all three (0V +V -V) on the top of the board.... one things for sure, you don't want to use thick wire from the rail splitter to P3, one loose strand out of place and POW goes your PSU...... I agree with you Alick...... I found this part of the build very fiddly and, quite frankly, frustrating considering the board could have been designed to use jumpers, This is one part of the design David will hopefully address. Even with pin headers it would be a bloody fiddly job ..... Jumpers are the way to go......
I notice you're using the BC caps? They're pretty good and reasonably priced did you get them from Rapid? From the size of the two yellow Nitai non polars I would guesstimate that they are 16V 1000uF? I can see the RC55Y's (300R and 1K) are in place for the LM6181 what resistors did you use for the rest of the board? They look like Trueohm 0.1% 15ppm from the pic

Looking good Alick I can't wait to hear what you think of the LM6181...... I've still got them in place and am VERY happy with the sound quality indeed...... Try the MKll with the LM6171 also, there's not much in it and it'll be interesting to learn your opinion.
Look forward to it.
All the best.
Mike.
EDIT:
Thanks for the pic it will show the difference between the PCB1 and PCB2...... they are both identical with the exception that PCB2 has provision to board mount the volco and head-socket....... other than that they are identical. It's good that two boards are available to cater for all applications:

PCB1
PCB1 is similar to the previous WNA (and can also be used as a buffer amplifier) except the pcb is a little larger; there are now "two" pairs of output devices per channel to deliver a lot more grunt into low impedance 'phones; the rail splitter is now preceded by a capacitance multiplier to make performance less dependent on the quality of the external power supply so you can now get fantastic performance using a bog standard PSU; the output caps now mount on the pcb; and each channel is now completely independent ( i.e. the amp is dual mono ) so that you can have one power supply per channel. The PCB1 is ideal for people who want to use a stepped attenuator or want to build a fully balanced system using 2 boards... It can also be used as a Dual Class A Buffer Amplifer.

PCB2
PCB2 is the same as PCB1 except that the potentiometer and headphone jack mount on the pcb.








I may well buy one and house it in its own enclosure (offboard) how many steps will you be using? I'll probably go with 24 for starters.




. Dr White would lend you a cascode if you wanted to try one.



