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now this is a power cord! - Page 4

post #46 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amol
placebo ?
possibly, but i have already sold the zu mother. the bass can't be mistaken tho...IMO.
post #47 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilPeart
I may replace the Signal Cable HCPC with a PS Audio xStream Plus cable but I foresee little benefit in swapping the cable from the wall to the P300 itself.
The Power Plants are like big amps. So you should treat them like amps. Biggest and baddest power cord straight into the wall. Definitly get another power cord for it.

I use Multiwave I on SS3 115V. My P300 has all new better capacitors. The sound is through the roof!
post #48 of 65

Hmm...

My P300 is brand new (but I did not pay close to retail price for the P300 - don't ask because I cannot tell) so perhaps it has the "better caps" you referred to, Lan. Multiwave II offers only 5 patterns as opposed to Multiwave I's 9, but II's patterns are said to be superior. I really like PS Audio's power philosophies so I may buy a couple xStream Plus cables (1 for the DAC1 and 1 for the P300), and when I have my own place I'll definitely buy several power ports. I’m still confused regarding the DAC1’s 0 watt power draw…
post #49 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilPeart
My P300 is brand new (but I did not pay close to retail price for the P300 - don't ask because I cannot tell) so perhaps it has the "better caps" you referred to, Lan.
Lan modded his P300. YOu won't find those caps in yours.

Quote:
I’m still confused regarding the DAC1’s 0 watt power draw…
The P300 (as well as the other Power Plants) is not that accurate for power draw. Remember that it rounds to the nearest 10th. So it is registering less than 10 watts is all.

Yep, I have my P300 straight out of the wall. I tried a Brickwall to protect the P300, but it only restricted dynamics, was probably starving the P300 for power a bit.

-Ed
post #50 of 65
Yeah the meter isn't that accurate. My emu 1820m is also registering "0".

Multiwave II is supposed to be better but I didn't bother upgrading as I could use that money for other tweaks. Multiwave I or II should give more quality along with bass since it charges the caps "better". Of course it would only work on small current items. Using it on my amp made the sound kind of lifeless but the noise floor was less. Could be because my amps would register like "170" on the meter.
post #51 of 65
if your going to blow $300 on a power cord... why not just run your amp off of a boat battery or an SLA or something and have pure clean DC power?
post #52 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by flecom
if your going to blow $300 on a power cord... why not just run your amp off of a boat battery or an SLA or something and have pure clean DC power?
Cause the powercord is cooler
post #53 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReasonablyLucid
Cause the powercord is cooler
post #54 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by flecom
if your going to blow $300 on a power cord... why not just run your amp off of a boat battery or an SLA or something and have pure clean DC power?
I don't believe that works for some of us with tube amps.
post #55 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by lan
I don't believe that works for some of us with tube amps.
sure why not, you use what... 600v on your tubes? pick up 13 48v boat batteries, gives you a nice clean 624 volts

i use batteries on my tube amp, although i guess its easier since it runs off 24v
post #56 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by flecom
sure why not, you use what... 600v on your tubes? pick up 13 48v boat batteries, gives you a nice clean 624 volts

i use batteries on my tube amp, although i guess its easier since it runs off 24v
using 13 deep cycle batteries @ about $80 a pop would make the $300 ac cord look like a bargin
post #57 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReasonablyLucid
using 13 deep cycle batteries @ about $80 a pop would make the $300 ac cord look like a bargin
better than a $300 power cord going to a $.15 outlet and $.05/ft copper wiring in the wall with mice chewing on it
post #58 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by flecom
better than a $300 power cord going to a $.15 outlet and $.05/ft copper wiring in the wall with mice chewing on it
Actually the majority of the line noise would come from your own nearby equipment so a cord with uber sheilding would actually help.

But im using a power conditioner so I have clean power going into my uber cord
post #59 of 65
This has evolved into an informative thread. Its great to see powercord believers & non-believers exchange insights in a civil, dare I say friendly way. I hope it stays this way in this thread.

What I gather from this thread is that powercords do their magic by removing noise out of the power (thru ferrites) & blocking out noise (thru shielding). I totally agree with this belief. I also believe that it is overkill to get a 4-gauge powercord when the component drawing power is not a power-amp, especially if the wiring inside your walls are only 14-gauge wires. With regards to the cost of powercords, I think it is a non-issue. $1000 may be a big sum for some here but it will be peanuts for others since the earning capacity of all members here are different.

With that stated, I have a few questions. What I would like to know is how do other powercords that dont have shielding & ferrites work? Do they still help at all?
post #60 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by tortie
With that stated, I have a few questions. What I would like to know is how do other powercords that dont have shielding & ferrites work? Do they still help at all?
With that guys nailgun analogy I suppose they would still help becuase when the amp peaks during the music it still has full vailabile power and not being restricted by the cord guage.
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