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Post pics of your builds.... - Page 638

post #9556 of 9591
This one has some back ordered parts with alternates added for I think most of the silicon.....I've not gone back and back filled the resistors, but those are easy. The MJE vs MJF is metal backed case vs insulated/plastic. Insulate accordingly:
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?State=EDIT&ProjectGUID=df581a66-f0dd-417a-9e40-bd9346f974b3
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?State=EDIT&ProjectGUID=4BF9A07D-45AF-401B-9932-6C4A7B2AF1DB
Edited by GrindingThud - 6/5/14 at 5:16pm
post #9557 of 9591

What great tip.  I had no idea you could purchase directly from On Semi.  I actually have the MJF15031G's.  What I'm waiting for are the MPSA56's. I checked On Semi's web site for those, and they are not selling that particular part direct but they do list a couple of distributors who do have them in stock.

 

Me

post #9558 of 9591
Looks like mouser has them....I happen to like the tape/reel configuration:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MPSA56RLRAGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-MPSA56RLRAG
Quote:
Originally Posted by muskyhuntr View Post

What great tip.  I had no idea you could purchase directly from On Semi.  I actually have the MJF15031G's.  What I'm waiting for are the MPSA56's. I checked On Semi's web site for those, and they are not selling that particular part direct but they do list a couple of distributors who do have them in stock.

Me

Edited by GrindingThud - 6/6/14 at 2:33pm
post #9559 of 9591

I saw that when I made my original order but thought MPSA56RLRAG and MPSA56G were different devices and not just a packaging difference.  Item ordered and thank you for pointing that out.

 

Me

post #9560 of 9591

Here's a unique build of the DIYtube Budgie SE (Single Ended). This one features Elna Silmic II electrolytics, Koa Speers resistors, a Noble potentiometer, Cardas wiring, and Russian silver mica caps. Everything is mounted to a 0.1" thick copper plate and is sitting on a copper leafed wood frame. Tested with Sennheiser Amperiors and sounds quite nice :) 

 

 

 

 

Shannon at DIYTube (I have no business affiliation FYI) offers a mounting PCB to make the build super easy if you are interested in building. It's a fairly low cost build if you stick to the BoM. 

post #9561 of 9591
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiGHFLYiN9 View Post
 

Here's a unique build of the DIYtube Budgie SE (Single Ended). This one features Elna Silmic II electrolytics, Koa Speers resistors, a Noble potentiometer, Cardas wiring, and Russian silver mica caps. Everything is mounted to a 0.1" thick copper plate and is sitting on a copper leafed wood frame. Tested with Sennheiser Amperiors and sounds quite nice :) 

 

Beautiful build.  Your casework always looks awesome.

post #9562 of 9591

I just finished a beta22...

post #9563 of 9591
Quote:
Originally Posted by troymadison View Post
 

I just finished a beta22...

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

That looks amazing.  How does it sound with the K1000s and do you have any heat issues with just the vents in the back?

post #9564 of 9591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post
 

That looks amazing.  How does it sound with the K1000s and do you have any heat issues with just the vents in the back?


The heatsinks touch the top metal enclosure cover as extra "heatsinking". It does get warm but not hot when I drive my Magnepan MMGs which need the same volume position as my K1Ks with the drivers positioned all the way out. Keep in mind I have two sigma22 power supplies powering two beta22 boards. I can tell there is an improvement driving the K1K out of the beta22 compared to the cheap power amp I bought from the Good Will. The biggest difference is that they seem to be "faster" and "sharper" compared to before, as if the beta22 can actually keep up with the K1K. The cheap power amp didn't do a horrible job either though. The Big Joe amp was pretty crappy at driving them though which made me give up on the K1000 the first time.

post #9565 of 9591
Quote:
Originally Posted by troymadison View Post
 


The heatsinks touch the top metal enclosure cover as extra "heatsinking". It does get warm but not hot when I drive my Magnepan MMGs which need the same volume position as my K1Ks with the drivers positioned all the way out. Keep in mind I have two sigma22 power supplies powering two beta22 boards. I can tell there is an improvement driving the K1K out of the beta22 compared to the cheap power amp I bought from the Good Will. The biggest difference is that they seem to be "faster" and "sharper" compared to before, as if the beta22 can actually keep up with the K1K. The cheap power amp didn't do a horrible job either though. The Big Joe amp was pretty crappy at driving them though which made me give up on the K1000 the first time.

interesting heatsinking idea.  I like it.  Ya having one sigma per board seems to be a good idea.  I run a 4 channel beta with two sigmas though and it powers speakers just fine...to a point but I am glad you are liking the amp. 

post #9566 of 9591

troymadison - Congrats on the build.  Something to consider for more ventilation (w/o access to CNC) is using table saw if you've access to one.  One of my amp builds used a case similar to yours & I'd agonized on how to make "nice" holes. 

I used table saw with proper aluminum cutting blade, with bottom plate clamped down well & slowly raised the blade into the material, making nicely spaced / equal-length slots the width of the blade cut.  Got the process down well then did the top plate.   They came out pretty nice.  Lots of noise during the cut & used all safety precautions esp. as its not a proper cut to make.

post #9567 of 9591
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post
 

troymadison - Congrats on the build.  Something to consider for more ventilation (w/o access to CNC) is using table saw if you've access to one.  One of my amp builds used a case similar to yours & I'd agonized on how to make "nice" holes. 

I used table saw with proper aluminum cutting blade, with bottom plate clamped down well & slowly raised the blade into the material, making nicely spaced / equal-length slots the width of the blade cut.  Got the process down well then did the top plate.   They came out pretty nice.  Lots of noise during the cut & used all safety precautions esp. as its not a proper cut to make.


Yeah! I'll take that into consideration! It hasn't got alarmingly hot or warm yet I think.

post #9568 of 9591

This is a Beta 22 build that I just finished.  It's a '3 channel' or so-called 'active ground' version. The power supply is completely isolated from chassis ground using rubber sheets, Delrin blocks, etc. This maintains safety (the AC "subchassis" is bonded to the safety earth ground of the line cord) while keeping any noise from the AC safety ground off the signal ground.  The power transformer is inside a box of mild steel, which pretty effectively reduces it's radiated magnetic field, enough so that noise currents are not induced into the low level, high impedance circuits.

 

Other things I've done include rather heavy silver plated / Teflon wiring for the power rails - 12 gauge for the + and - rails, and 10 gauge for the common rail, in order to keep supply impedance at an absolute minimum, and noise rejection high.  The front panel was milled from a billet of 3/4" aluminum- not for any performance reason, but just because I like thick metal.

 

A Goldpoint attenuator is fitted, as are better quality RCA input jacks, being gold-over-copper rather than the more common gold-over-nickel-over brass.  The gold/copper jacks are said to be lower noise.

 

Side panels are made from selected "tiger" maple with a gloss finish (12 coats) for maximum depth and chatoyance.

 

 

 

This photo doesn't do justice to the 3-dimensional depth of the wood grain.

The wood sides can be removed if one prefers an all-aluminum look.

The front panel is milled from a single billet of aluminum.

Neutrik non-locking headphone jack. (I don't like locking jacks.)

 

 

 

 

Power supply is completely isolated, giving the circuit advantages of a 2-chassis build without the inconvenience and cost.

 

 

LED brightness was toned down to offer subtle white light indicating "ON" for the Bulgin-style on/off switch.  

Front panel is bead-blasted natural aluminum for a frosted look, with the raised area along the bottom polished to high gloss.

 

 

Good quality input jacks

 

 

The Goldpoint attenuator is rear-mounted to keep signal leads as short as possible

Efforts were made to keep the attenuator mechanical action as silky and smooth as possible- the attenuator is mounted to a machined Derlin block for rigidity and the shaft extension uses a high-quality aluminum flex coupling. The bushing holding the shaft to the front panel is closely fitted to the shaft and lined with Teflon to eliminate play and maintain smooth action.

 

I will be making a foam-lined, fitted wood case for the amplifier next. 

 

The amplifier will be offered for sale at some point. Since starting this build in 2013, I have (ironically) decided to concentrate on electrostatic 'phones and so don't need this Beta.

 

Gain is "medium" -  5?  I think?  Not 2 or 8.  I forget exactly, 5 I think.

post #9569 of 9591

Very nice unique & innovative build there milosz.  Clearly a lot of thought, time & expense when into it.  Especially like the front panel & power supply treatment.

post #9570 of 9591

Very nicely done.  The cable management is amazing and I can tell that the pictures don't do this amp justice....especially the wood.  

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