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Post pics of your builds.... - Page 593

post #8881 of 9593

Here is the CMOY I built about 5 years ago. It was originally in a plastic project box from RatShack, but after cutting cups for my Grado's from the Paduk, I bought a cheap piece of 5x5x2 Zapote for $7.00 and hollowed it out to move the CMOY into something more attractive. The base is two 2.5x5x1/4" oak boards which can removed with some heat to melt the hot glue, should I need to service the components.

 

I want to burn wording into the front panel for each switch, the knob and connection, but not sure how to go about that at the moment.

 

 

1000

post #8882 of 9593

That looks very sleek. May I ask how you planned and constructed the box?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

Here is the CMOY I built about 5 years ago. It was originally in a plastic project box from RatShack, but after cutting cups for my Grado's from the Paduk, I bought a cheap piece of 5x5x2 Zapote for $7.00 and hollowed it out to move the CMOY into something more attractive. The base is two 2.5x5x1/4" oak boards which can removed with some heat to melt the hot glue, should I need to service the components.

 

I want to burn wording into the front panel for each switch, the knob and connection, but not sure how to go about that at the moment.

 

 

post #8883 of 9593

its my cmoy  3 ch http://www.flickr.com/photos/60241833@N03/8304936326/


Edited by kipkip - 12/24/12 at 11:07am
post #8884 of 9593

The concept came from Grado's RA-1. Since I love the grain of Zapote hardwood on larger surface (not very much to appreciate when used with cups), I decided to get a bock of Zapote and hollow it out. I tried using a router but it wasn't working out very well, so instead I used a drill press with a table vice and went to work using a few sizes of forstner bits. Larger bits for the majority of material removal, smaller bits for the corners, and got as close to 1/8" as I could for the front and back walls, without breaking anything. The inside is reinforced with a cross pattern of 1/4" oak board which keeps the walls from flexing, and makes it ridged. Holes were drilled in the supports to route wiring through.

 

 

1000

post #8885 of 9593

Hello

 

this is my hybrid headphone amp. It works similar like a starving Student, with the different it uses not the tube filaments as source resistors for the Mosfets.

I was worried about the heaters, so i built in 150 ohm-source resistors.

The tubes are two PC96 (one per channel)

 

700

 

700

 

700

 

greetings

Pit

post #8886 of 9593
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pit-K View Post

Hello

 

this is my hybrid headphone amp. It works similar like a starving Student, with the different it uses not the tube filaments as source resistors for the Mosfets.

I was worried about the heaters, so i built in 150 ohm-source resistors.

The tubes are two PC96 (one per channel)

 

 

 

greetings

Pit

Love the old-school look!  Nice work.

post #8887 of 9593
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pit-K View Post

Hello

 

this is my hybrid headphone amp. It works similar like a starving Student, with the different it uses not the tube filaments as source resistors for the Mosfets.

I was worried about the heaters, so i built in 150 ohm-source resistors.

The tubes are two PC96 (one per channel)

 

700

 

700

 

700

 

greetings

Pit


That is beautiful. Nice carpentry! Hopefully I can make something that clean looking before too long...

 

Also those are some supersexy cans!

post #8888 of 9593

Wow....

There are some really nice builds here. I wish I could say the same about my builds:

 

1000

 

1000

 

 

 

1000

1000

 

There are a few things that I regret not doing now (eg. Having the screws face down so that you can't see them) but it works and I didn't need to spend that much on them and I was 13 and 14 at the time that I built these (mint tin amp was built when I was 13). The second one is just a mint tin amp with a similar circuit. 

I should probably get back into the DIY game... I've done a little bit of valve stuff before so a valve headphone amp might be seen in future...

post #8889 of 9593

Hello People

 

I´m glad you like my amp. :)

 

Hello Pinto Dave,

your amp is beautyful!

The polished Wood surface is wonderful.

But i have no idea how to burn words in the front, whitout ruin the surface.

You should test it on a waste piece of the same wood.

 

greetz

Pit

post #8890 of 9593

Finally finished my Hagerman Bugle phono pre, I had been using it in a battery powered setup for a while, which was fine, I really like the sound of this pre, but I hated changing batteries twice a month.  So I ordered the power supply board and built a box for it.  I am not a wood worker, I work with metal, I understand metal, it makes sense to me, wood on the other hand, well there's plenty of expletives I could use, but they'd all be censored, so I'll leave it at, this was difficult for me.

 

Internals:

 

 

 

 

The divider is an steel bar that I drilled and tapped then screwed to the case, 

 

 

Picture of the rear.

 

 

 

Front.

-Off

 

On.

 

 

The wood knob is actually a push button for the power.  I spent a lot of time trying to figure out a power switch to use, eventually I settled on the idea of taking a push button switch which I then took a piece of round stock oak, cut, drilled a hole a little smaller than the plunger of the switch about 90% of the way through the wood, then another whole that was large enough to slide over the threaded portion of the push button's shaft.  I'm really really happy with how the button turned out, and might be my proudest part of this whole project.

 

For the LED, I stole this idea from another members project in this thread, I don't remember who, but if you recognize it, pat yourself on the back.  I drilled a hole through the wood that was about half the diameter of the LED, then on the inside of the box, I drilled a hole to fit the LED, and epoxied the it to the wood.  It glows very nicely, and when it's off it doesn't look like an LED, I really wanted this project to look nice, and not have parts and pieces sticking out on the front panel.

 

I stained the button with a cherry stain, and used an onyx stain on the case, in the end I can't tell the difference between the two, HA!  The button got two coats of lacquer clear, and the case got five.

 

The top is a piece of MDF which I sealed with a mixture of water and wood glue spread on thin to harden the board and to allow for sanding, it was then sprayed with four or five coats of black lacquer, followed by the same number coats of clear lacquer.

 

On the bottom I have gold speaker spikes for feet, I had a credit with parts express, so I figured why not?

 

That's enough rambling from me for now.

post #8891 of 9593

Looks good to me. I also have the Bugle/PS combo, but use PRP resistors and Orange drop cap's. I recently did this Caddock/Obbligato mod:http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=111983.0

and it sounds fabulous. I got the parts for the mod from Parts Connexion.

post #8892 of 9593
Quote:
Originally Posted by samsquanch View Post
 

Very nice case work biggrin.gif

but shouldn't you use Type-A PowerCon for inlet?

post #8893 of 9593
Quote:
Originally Posted by funch View Post

Looks good to me. I also have the Bugle/PS combo, but use PRP resistors and Orange drop cap's. I recently did this Caddock/Obbligato mod:http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=111983.0

and it sounds fabulous. I got the parts for the mod from Parts Connexion.

 

Hmm, just when I thought I was done...  I had been thinking about swapping the caps, I think I'll give your suggestion a shot when I get around to it.  (got a lot of records I'm jonesin to listen to)  Thanks

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by b1o2r3i4s5 View Post

Very nice case work biggrin.gif

but shouldn't you use Type-A PowerCon for inlet?

 

Thanks, I'm slowly losing my fear of wood work.

 

We have a bunch of the power out type laying around my shop, so I just snagged one of those.  If someone ever runs into my bedroom and tries to jam a power cord into the back of my preamp to power their death ray, or what have you, well, the joke will be on them!

post #8894 of 9593

My mini, pocket able, PPAv2:

AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark

Thinking about calling it the PPAv2-Ve, the "Ve" standing for Volumetric efficiency, there is very little waisted space inside that case.

post #8895 of 9593
Quote:
Originally Posted by H22 View Post

My mini, pocket able, PPAv2:

 

Thinking about calling it the PPAv2-Ve, the "Ve" standing for Volumetric efficiency, there is very little waisted space inside that case.

Wow! This has got to be one of the most cramped PCBs I've ever seen!

Very nice!

 

Is is just me or does the PCB look completely different from the outline?

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