Post pics of your builds.... - Page 421

It is worth trying it set up with two 9V batteries. On bigger phones like the 570s I find it helps give a fuller sound and is particularly helpful on the bass end of the scale.

It has the advantage of not changing the sound per-se, it just allows the cmoy to drive the 'phones a bit better. A lot of bass boost circuits fall into the same trap that yours apparently has - increase the bass signal but not the ability of the amp to delivery it through the 'phones.

True.
Nice little layout, wap32

Thanks for your explanation! That makes alot of sense.

I'll probably sit this one on the shelf since I just finished the Mini 3 and it is a big improvement over the Cmoy.

See my reply to MASantos above.
They're just simple I/O switchers, nothing fancy.

Thanks

I say based on the STEPS because it pretty much has the same parts list, even if it does not have an on-board transformer.

Next step in my build is the Power Supply. Here's the build progress. I need a couple more parts, but should have them early next week.











I just ordered a custom wound transformer from SumR. Very nice and great prices. Can't wait to get it in and test this puppy

Looks awesome Kerry.
And after 6 years of electrical engineering (the equivalent of a very nice, hard earned Associate's Degree) at community college after a day of work, you could tell me those boards are for a new generation Microwave Oven, I'd trust you.

A typical ghetto build for typical poor student like me. Behold!





The little guy on the top is the SOUL Mini. It's a DIY 3-channel active-ground amp designed by our own psychoaudio which has undergone heavy modifications from the original design. The big guy below should be no stranger to you guys as it's the very popular σ11. Together they form a very musical combination which is very hard to beat at their price range.

I thank Ti, Dhaninugraha and Psychoaudio for making this happen.

My Dual mono gainclone build, based around a kit from www.chipamp.com.

Not finished yet, need to hook the power boards to the amp boards and fit a slo-blow fuse for v1, then adding a smaller toroid, suitable relays etc for the soft start with a power button on the front (power/standby) and fit a suitable temperature based fan controller to the cooler if needed.















And will be making a very nicely finished bit of walnut for the front panel...

(I know this has very little to do with headphones, that comes next with the Pimeta in with the Starfish based pre)

sam_cat - looks nice! Do you mind if I ask how much you ended up spending and what you ended up choosing for trafos? I'm building a B24 at the moment but want to build one of these as well just for fun. Also, are those heat sinks standard fare that come with the kit? I don't remember seeing them on the website.

Case was around £35, and the trafo's were about £30 each. Connectors came to around £25 (mains in, switch, 4 speaker binding posts and 2 phono connectors, all of good quality) All the wiring etc was stuff I already had.

Trafos were from http://www.airlinktransformers.com/t...ansformers.asp, specifically the 300VA 230V 2 x 22V toroidal transformer (part no 0300222).. Went overkill to allow for future plans (something that requires more power than a gainclone)

Heatsink is from an old computer, its a P2 slot cooler... Can get them off ebay for a few quid, and they came with a fan installed, so easy to improve cooling if needed.

Cheers,
Sam

An updated picture of my CTH (#2 of the proto builds) in action now with acrylic panels!

I love this amp

Beta-22 case during creation. Picture is terrible but I just happened to have it on my phone so why not. They are 3/8" aluminum with 1/16" L bracket to hold them together. The random holes on the sides are to become ventilation slots. Hope to be finished within the week, when better pics, and pics with pretty LEDs will be coming down the pipe.

slightly audio related: a delay ('staggered') startup sequencer for 4 disk drives in my networked disk server:



very simple idea (still has yet to be wired to my pc, though, lol): you want to stagger the load on the power supply if you have a semi-cheap (we all do, sigh) power supply and too many drives connected. on some power supplies, even 1 drive is 1 drive too many (I'm not kidding; I wish I was). so this device sees the system start to power on, it immediately presses and holds the pc's reset button and then starts to sequence the 4 drives, one by one, giving them power and waiting 5 secs to let them spin up. do that for all 4 drives (4 orange relays) then finally you release the reset button (top relay, red LED) and let the poor pc finally POST (boot). that's the theory, at least.

the board works and the lights come on and go off at the right times. controller is the usual arduino 328 chip. the smaller chip is a relay driver, uln2003. the small jumper shunts select between programmed spinup and forced spinup on a per-drive basis. the leds are in molex connectors so that they can be left there, removed or even remoted to the front panel.

just a half day project but one that I hope will save my NAS's power supply next time the system has to go from power-off to power-on (rebooting after a power outage, etc).

edit: it made MAKE magazine! their flicker blog, at least:

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/201..._hard_dis.html

I have full source code and schematic up at my project area: http://www.netstuff.org/spinmaster/


it even has a serial command-line interface (just added this today, 1-feb-2010)



you can turn drives on and off at will via a usb port, after the computer has booted and the o/s is running.

Another finished Bijou

I have finally completed the casework on my Bijou. I tried many times and could not get a decent shot without the the blue illumination washing out. My original front panel design had included a thin white inlay around the outside perimeter of the panel. My wife suggested I illuminate the border instead. (She strongly recommended I publicly give her credit for that idea! Thank you sweetie )





Case is a custom Par-Metal gold anodized enclosure. Black powder coated once I completed fabrication.







Please PM me if you have any tricks or suggestions to help improve the night shot.

Wow!