NO, the Valhalla2's is always active. Pay attention to what I'm saying. When I said use passive preamps I meant use the Schiit Sys, not the Valhalla. Bifrost and a TT for example go into Sys, it outputs the analogue signal from either into the Valhalla2.
I was thinking of coupling Pamp and amp because if you look at the Valhalla, you have one input and one output. If you look at the Saga, you've 5 inputs for one output. So I was thinking you can use it in order to plug a turntable, a cassette player, a CD player etc. Actually, it was the configuration from my mom when I was a child that's why I'm reffering to this example.
Yes but the thing is as I've already discussed dedicated preamps were designed for use with power amps, regardless of how many inputs they have (ie there are some passive preamps with only one input and one output). Also, are you sure your mother's system had a dedicated preamp with a power amp? That could have been an integrated amp. Basically a full-feature preamp with an amplifier output stage built into the same chassis, although the input selector might be on a raised daughterboard.
At the same time, the need for a preamp then was because of how many analogue sources were in use, because practically there probably wasn't anything digital - or at best, the CDP - in your mother's system. Dedicated preamps nowadays are really more for controlling power amps because apart from a TT everything else tends to be digital, so a DAC handles most of the inputs (CD transport or media player on coax SPDIF, gaming PC or PS4 on optical SPDIF, smartphone or tablet on USB), with the TT being the only one that can't work with all those. At the same time even speaker equipment is reducing all this, not just by having a DAC board built into the same box as the integrated amp (as with DAC-HPamps)
Also while the Saga does have a passive preamp mode (active mode has a 10v output - normal line input into anything that has its own preamp stage is 2.0v), you're essentially going to spend $350 on something that won't utilize what it was really made for, which is its tube preamp. Really its passive mode is there more for getting a headphone amp in the same chain, because the DAC (like the Bifrost) would have only one output, so that will get routed to the Saga and then back out to the HPamp in the secondary passive output while the other output is likely going to run active with a dedicated power amp. Just how many analogue inputs do you need? Because you can just use all the digital inputs into the Bifrost (and note that there are affordable SPDIF switchers on Amazon in case some need the same SPDIF port) and then the Sys to use a TT.
The output off that laptop is only 3.5mm headphone amplified output. Should be good enough for many headphones. If it has SPDIF optical you can use its DSP with an external DAC-HPamp system, but definitely does not work with the E10K unless Nahimic 2 is a purely software processor that works off the processor instead of its own DSP chip. You need to check with MSI for that, or in this thread:
Yes since the IEM will get to your pain threshold a lot sooner and before the amp piles on distortion and noise than the HD650.
Actually, I don't really care about the video but I'm more into rythmic. Like if you listen Run Boy Run from Woodkid, it gave me the wish tu run like a superhero or to be outside the world in another dimension. Moreover Alizee is from my native country so it reminded me of my childhood. But I understand what you mean here.
Again that was just an example that had a lot more to do with aesthetics than anything about the music specifically, to make a point about subjectivity as when you raised the point about perceiving "emotion." I mean even with emotion specifically 1812 Overture and Arirang would have a different effect in Europe and Asia (unless the person listening is a history or political science major/MA/PhD).
Based on past posts here that can be the case. Others do point out the graph of the HD600 response curve, but there's on problem that is always overlooked: that graph was taken in an acoustically isolated room. That's great for getting what they need to get, but doesn't represent real world conditions, where ambient noise will get in the way of what the listener hears and most especially the low bass.
While they are on Amazon, I'll try them but reviews are not really nice. I will trust you more than them because you were a really good adviser from a lot of things even if I probably don't get everything! But this is a really wide domain, complicated but interesting. And with all your responses, it should help other foggy people like me.
Just note that the thing with the Aurisonics design is that they're really skewed in favor of the bass, and that's one common reason why people don't like Aurisonics/Fender. That said, the response above the bass region is relatively smooth (no peaks on the ASG-1.3, not so much the FXA-2 but still relatively smooth), and in my case a low shelf EQ cut at 1000hz (it applies the cut or boost uniformly below the chosen center frequency) to balance it all out is enough. Although this is easiest on NeutronMusicPlayer, when I use Spotify, I just activate AdaptSound (Samsung's AutoEQ). It does this differently, boosting the treble, but you tend to get less obvious distortion boosting treble than bass, so it's not that bad of a problem. Highly likely the people who dislike it don't like using EQ (look at how none of them even mentioned it).
Yes but like I said once above 100dB the differences aren't all that consequential for not getting a lot of distortion out of many devices, while at the same time, anything with very high sensitivity couple with (very) low impedance can just result in a lot of electronic noise (hissing). So if you're using a smartphone and without any feedback on how it is with at least an IEM with comparable sensitivity and lower impedance, it's safer to get the 105dB IEM (in any case just make sure it's over 100dB) unless the 130dB IEM at the very least has about 32ohms.
I didn't have the opportunity to study in depth that. However I tried to find a reference guide or something easy to learn from but I failed. While it's a huge domain, that's normal for a guy like me it's difficult to understand everything in addition that my English just vanished. Anyways, it should take a couple of months before understanding everything correctly.
Look for a free textbook on electrical and acoustic engineering online.