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Replacing a HT subwoofer with a car sub. - Page 6

post #76 of 89
Ouch, that complicates matters. How do you have things wired? Multiple crossovers in series have to be set even more carefully.


gerG
post #77 of 89
Thread Starter 


Not sure if this is what you mean....
post #78 of 89
Does your manual say anything about the receiver's crossover? If it includes an actual high pass on the sats and a low pass on the sub, you can go with the internal x-over vs the one in the sub. In order to do the phase check that I described above the receiver crossover needs to be disengaged (allowing full range to both the sub and the sats). Once you have the phase nailed down, you should start with the 100 hz setting in the receiver. Leave the sub set at 160 if the receiver has a low pass on the sub channel. If you are getting a lot of cone motion in the sats, go to the 120 setting. 80 is probably too low for the 4" woofers.


gerG
post #79 of 89
Thread Starter 
Here is what the manual says about the crossover

Adjustable Crossover (80/100/120 Hz) for Bass Management
This setting allows you to set the crossover frequency for your
speaker system. This setting is valid when “Subwoofer” is set to
“Yes,” or for speakers that are set to “Small,” at the “Speaker
Config” menu. The crossover frequency is the minimum
frequency delivered to a speaker and can be set to 80 Hz, 100 Hz,
or 120 Hz. Frequencies below this are cut from speakers set to
“Small” and sent to the subwoofer (or to speakers set to
“Large”).

The manual can be found here if you are intrested

So should I just keep everything where it is at with the 100 Hz crossover on the reciever?
post #80 of 89
I would say yes, set the receiver to 100 hz and the sub option to "Yes".

The sub's built in crossover should be set to 160, since you are not using it.

This is a nice option for anyone setting up a system with a sub. I don't know if it is a common feature in digital receivers now, but it sure makes life easier.


gerG
post #81 of 89
I think it's a pretty common feature for receivers nowadays. My friend has it in his Onkyo that he got for under $300, I think, and I'm sure cheaper models have it as well.
post #82 of 89
Thread Starter 
Alright, sounds good. I must say I do love this reciever and will probably be keeping it for the rest of my life, if not that, then a long time.


Thanks again for all your help!
post #83 of 89
Thread Starter 
Well, after some months of use, it still sounds good.

However, I want to see if I can push it even more. Can anyone recommend me a new driver (from parts express if you can) that will work good with my box and port dementions.
post #84 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by skiguy411
Well, after some months of use, it still sounds good.

However, I want to see if I can push it even more. Can anyone recommend me a new driver (from parts express if you can) that will work good with my box and port dementions.
Well, I can't help you there, but I was toying with the idea of building an isobaric with this woofer http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=295-190
post #85 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by skiguy411
I have a cheap Awia 10 inch 150 watt Home Theatre sub. Instead of buying a whole new sub, I thought I might just change the speaker. I got the sub apart and pulled out it out. Would it be worth the extra 50 bucks to buy a new cone/driver and put it in the case with the home theatre amp?

Mods: Can I get this thread moved to DIY maybe?

Find out first with he manufacturer of the driver you choose, sometimes the subwoofers designed for car use, are designed just to work properly in small volumes, as the interior volume of a car, but once you place them inside a bigger space (as a room) they do not offer the same performance, do not mix apples and oranges...but in general you could always get a better replacement, for your sub, choosing among the driver manufacturers, you may need ot know some of the parameters first....
post #86 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sovkiller
Find out first with he manufacturer of the driver you choose, sometimes the subwoofers designed for car use, are designed just to work properly in small volumes, as the interior volume of a car, but once you place them inside a bigger space (as a room) they do not offer the same performance, do not mix apples and oranges...but in general you could always get a better replacement, for your sub, choosing among the driver manufacturers, you may need ot know some of the parameters first....
Oops, sorry, I probably should update my first post. Instead of replacing my current sub, I went ahead and just built a new one from scratch. Now, months later, I want to upgrade it.
post #87 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by skiguy411
Oops, sorry, I probably should update my first post. Instead of replacing my current sub, I went ahead and just built a new one from scratch. Now, months later, I want to upgrade it.
What size are you looking for? Parts Express, Madisound, Speakercity, etc...have a huge selection...try also Adire, they are among my favorites, if I need to go again into that, a Titanic or another Shiva (or better) from Adire would be my choise, as for the amps you have a bunch in the PartsExpress page, and in Apex Jr (this guy sometimes show up with really good stuff)
post #88 of 89
Thread Starter 
Current Sub
Current Amp
Dimensions are 17.25 x 17.25 x 17.5 with a 24.5 inch long 4 5/16th diameter port

I'd rather upgrade the driver, but if its the amp thats holding me back let me know!
post #89 of 89
Here is a good example of the Adire in action, and compared with other drivers of the market, they have evne a video...I'm a fan of those guys, at the time I got mine it was one of the best drivers available for that price....

Here for 20.00 more you almost double the power, nice amp, be prepared for a good box OK?

But if you do not have the extra cash to blow, the Part Express one, is a very good choice, but why not the Dayton Titanic instead it is 12" also....just double check it....
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