yeah i am going to make this as well but also want to know what to use for the input pot
David Gilmore i think used this schematic but it might be dip16amphttp://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dip...&.dnm=39fd.jpg
and in it he used the same setup as the spec sheet for the TPA6120a but for Rs instead of the 50 he used 100
i was looking at the panasonic evj pot or an alps rk27 pot
should i use a 10k or 50k pot? will the Rs value change for either of these?
what is the DC offset of the dip16amp setup used? is an input cap necessary? if the dc offset is too high could it be solved by changing the gain instead in order to avoid bass roll off and phase distortion?
as far as parts i figure vishays/dales from mouser
pot from digikey
neutrik 1/4" gold plated vertical jacks (anyone recommend a source or a different type of 1/4" jack?)
goldplated dip16 from mouser
i am looking for metallized polypropelyne or regular polypropelyne. whats a good brand and source for these?
i plan on using these with grado rs1s so i figure i need a lower gain and higher current
on a side note has anyone tried mounting an amp in a tube type setup?
input [ [ ] | ] output
------------>>>> [ **** <<<<--------------
input [_________[__]__|________] output
please pardon the horrible diagram.....
but basically i am suggesting mounting the amp and battery cells in the base of the tube and nead the end mount the pot on the same axis as the tube
have the amp be made of two tubes - base side with amp and input and and end cap with the output but since the pot is mounted on the same axis as the amp the end cap would serve as the volume knob
some sort of coupling would have to be devised to prevent the two caps from pulling apart
| // /
in addition there would be problems internally with twist for the 3 connectors going from the amp to the output jack on the end cap....
the connections could be incorporated into the outside of the coupling joint as outline above by having 3 rings (L,R,G) on the bottom and end caps and a tight fit plus a conductive grease....... it would work kind of like the bottom cap was a jack and the end cap was the plug or vice versa.....
perhaps you could even use a 1/4" jack at the end of the pot shaft so that when you push in a 1/4" plug it terminates at tip of the pot shaft then you just "key" the tip of a 1/4" plug so it fits into the pot shaft tip and turns it when you turn the end cap
i know that sounds convoluted but i will try to make a diagram for you all in illustrator