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$110 Tube Hybrid Amp Group Buy - Page 3

post #31 of 280
payment made
post #32 of 280
Doob: YGPP

JV.
post #33 of 280
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all those who made prompt payments.

I would like to finalize the list by tomorrow morning (that would be tomorrow evening for y'all in the West ) so please let me know (or just PayPal me) if you're still interested!
post #34 of 280
doobooloo: Please get a schematic of the amp and post it in this thread once you get the kits. I am interested in replacing some of the parts. Also, could you get some case measurements when you get it(internal)? I would like to know how big of parts I can use.

Thanks again.

JV.
post #35 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
doobooloo: Please get a schematic of the amp and post it in this thread once you get the kits. I am interested in replacing some of the parts. Also, could you get some case measurements when you get it(internal)? I would like to know how big of parts I can use.
Will do so. I need to start planning for some upgrades as well...
post #36 of 280
doob I'm interested in amp + upgrade .. maybe i can have the amp shipped to you and upgraded ( pm me about upgrades you plan on this amp please )

anyway keep the listing open till tomorrrow I'll likely be in the group
post #37 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by boodi
doob I'm interested in amp + upgrade .. maybe i can have the amp shipped to you and upgraded ( pm me about upgrades you plan on this amp please )

anyway keep the listing open till tomorrrow I'll likely be in the group
Well, virtually anything can be upgraded, but I'm thinking of the following:

1. Use better caps (film first, then electrolytic)
2. Use pure silver wire where it matters
3. Replace front, rear, and top covers with custom acrylic panels
4. Tuberoll...

The reason why I am thinking of #3 is that people have mentioned that the amp gets rather hot during operation. So, I thought that using a ventilated top panel made of acrylic would solve this problem AND show off the tube glow. However, the top panel on the HP-100A is actually the BOTTOM panel, so when this is done the front and rear panels would be upside-down. So, I would need to create custom panels for the front and rear as well...

The thing is, I am not sure how much all these upgrades would mean to the amp. The amp is ~$100, and the upgrades can EASILY go over that. A stepped attenuator can cost upto twice the amp's price, and even replacing the RCA jacks can cost more than the amp depending on what jacks to use. So probably only the really high cost-benefit ratio mods - better film caps and silver internal wiring - will be done.

If you're serious about this option then I can arrange it for you, and of course, do the upgrade according to your specs. For now, you need to purchase the kit version of the amp if you're serious so that I can get the final list of buyers done. I am not sure if I can take two of these heavy kits back home given how much of everything else I also have, so I may have to ship yours to my friend's place in Philly first, build it in September when I return to the US, and then do the mods/build the amp, and ship it to you from Philly. So shipping charges may be incurred twice, but of course shipping from the US will "only" be like $15 bucks by ground.

Let me know if you're still interested!
post #38 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by doobooloo
Well, virtually anything can be upgraded, but I'm thinking of the following:

1. Use better caps (film first, then electrolytic)
2. Use pure silver wire where it matters
3. Replace front, rear, and top covers with custom acrylic panels
4. Tuberoll...

The reason why I am thinking of #3 is that people have mentioned that the amp gets rather hot during operation. So, I thought that using a ventilated top panel made of acrylic would solve this problem AND show off the tube glow. However, the top panel on the HP-100A is actually the BOTTOM panel, so when this is done the front and rear panels would be upside-down. So, I would need to create custom panels for the front and rear as well...

The thing is, I am not sure how much all these upgrades would mean to the amp. The amp is ~$100, and the upgrades can EASILY go over that. A stepped attenuator can cost upto twice the amp's price, and even replacing the RCA jacks can cost more than the amp depending on what jacks to use. So probably only the really high cost-benefit ratio mods - better film caps and silver internal wiring - will be done.

If you're serious about this option then I can arrange it for you, and of course, do the upgrade according to your specs. For now, you need to purchase the kit version of the amp if you're serious so that I can get the final list of buyers done. I am not sure if I can take two of these heavy kits back home given how much of everything else I also have, so I may have to ship yours to my friend's place in Philly first, build it in September when I return to the US, and then do the mods/build the amp, and ship it to you from Philly. So shipping charges may be incurred twice, but of course shipping from the US will "only" be like $15 bucks by ground.

Let me know if you're still interested!
thanks doob for this answer ..but wop too much time to wait september ..

ok i'll search around a little bit about his sound sign. then back to you in pm with my interest
thanks
post #39 of 280
wouldnt acrylic melt?
post #40 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
thanks doob for this answer ..but wop too much time to wait september ..

ok i'll search around a little bit about his sound sign. then back to you in pm with my interest
thanks
OK! Sounds good!


Quote:
wouldnt acrylic melt?
Do tubes get THAT hot? And since it's not in direct contact with the tubes and it's ventilated, I presumed it would be OK. The melting point of cast acrylic is ~270F (~130C) and that of extruded is slightly lower... hmm, actually that isn't that high.

How hot do tubes get anyway? Sorry, I'm a complete toob noob boob (and yes, once my nickname was boob, but that's another story for another day...)
post #41 of 280
i sincerely suspect acrylic melting too
post #42 of 280
Thread Starter 
Well I'll do several experiments with different materials. I think some sort of wire mesh could also work - although with that dust may pose to be a problem. If acrylic doesn't work, I'll find out something...
post #43 of 280
For the price plus shipping count me in. I need the 110 volt version assembled.
post #44 of 280
Thread Starter 
Clarification on the whole tube issue... Sorry I didn't read the original description carefully. What the three types are (as I read it now) are:

1. Kit with Russia 6H23 tubes: 880 RMB
2. Assembled with Russia 6H23 tubes: 960 RMB
3. Assembled with Russia 6922 tubes: 1100 RMB

It's not that only the most expensive type has Russian tubes. They all do, but just different types. Sorry about this misunderstanding - I hope this won't be a big problem to all of you that made payments already.

This answers a commonly asked question: the 6922 tubes probably sound better than the 6H23 tubes since they charge more for it. A very simplified generalization, but with my limited knowledge of tubes that's the best I can do for now.

Please let me know if you have any questions regarding this new information. Thanks!
post #45 of 280
So far the mods I am thinking about:

Replace filtered AC inlet with Rhodium Furutech

Replace ALPS Blue Velvet with Black Beauty(this thing is sooooo much nicer, but also a lot bigger)

Hopefully replace film caps with Wima Black Box

Replace all electrolytics(Black Gate, Nichicon Muse, Cerefine, Pana FC)

All signal wiring done with 23AWG Cardas solid silver wire

Replace CD input with Audio Note AN-CS RCA jacks

Possibly replace resistors with Holco's

TUBEROLL!(obviously)

On the first page of this thread mekanoplastik a link with more pics of the amp. It seems someone replaced the film caps with Multi Caps.


The only things I am worried about for modding is if my Black Beauty, and electrolytics will fit.

Oh, and BOOBooloo I would like the 110V version.(I can't remember if I already asked)

Thanks,

JV.
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