Well i guess i have been comparing it to my HD800 so maybe i'm not used to switching back to my AD's with its closed in sound. I'm running it with a Beresford bushmaster DAC.
yeah i have given up on those little rubber things, they are harder to keep even then the glass itself. with or without them the glass slides easily on all 4 of my units. I have been trying to figure out an alternative such as a o-ring to go around the sleeve around the tubes that fills the space with the holes but unfortunately the thinnes orings i could find were 1.5mm and i need about .75mm to fit right. might try lightly sanding down the o-rings on a bar of metal. if they fit i think they would be a perfect solution since they also would not easily get lost and they would absolutely keep the glass from moving at all and at the same time be centered on the base. Would be real nice of the holes in the glass were sized to the collars in the base.
Interesting. I actually just spent a bit of time earlier this evening comparing the stock EH tubes with the Sylvania JAN 5814A's, and the sound signature was dramatically different. You aren't using the Sylvania 12AU7's are you?
Thanks for the impressions on the Mullards. I probably will purchase a set of Gold Lion's later this weekend and should get them at some point next week. My curiosity is getting the better of me.
I have one of the earliest TPs (SN041400XTP, shipped in 1st week of May), yeah, less than 10 and I don't have that much quality issues as some have reported here. Maybe I just got the perfect unit.
Yeah, the glass would move quite a bit if you put too much force on it. But if you leave it on its own and place it on a fairly level surface, I don't think it would move or slide on its own. The protruded brim of the tube slot provides robust restraint for the glass from sliding or from falling over.
So you don't have to worry about it. Even if you don't put the non-slip pads, the glass will be going nowhere.
Check the first full review on the new WA7d and WA7tp by Brain at Audio-Head.com
From what I could grasp, the base denomination is 12AU7. Because the tubes can be switched, the advertisements on ebay include all the derivate denominations that are compatible. Compatible, yes, but not identical. The 5814A for example is a special version, military grade that requires more power (gets hotter) than stock tube 12AU7. The more current required by the 5814A (175mA instead of 150mA) brings better dynamics. And yet, it also depends on the brand, there are many GEs on ebay but Sylvania and Telefunken seem to be the best ones (see website below). If you say that the 6189W sounds like the stock tube, they may be close in construction quality.
See: http://www.audiotubes.com/12au7.htm (Short cut and paste from the site below)
12AU7 / 12AU7A: The common USA version of this tube. RCA, GE, and Sylvania actually made most of these tubes, regardless of brand on the label.
ECC82: This is the European version of the 12AU7, and is identical to it. The brands in demand are Telefunken, Amperex, and Mullard.
6189 / E82CC: This can be both a military spec tube and a premium industrial tube. Often, the military versions will be marked 12AU7WA in addition to having 6189 etched in the glass.These are excellent step up tubes in the 12AU7 family, when you can find them! Look for super rare triple mica versions from Mazda, Siemens, and Mullard, some with silver plates. Among the best 12AU7 tubes ever made.
5814: This is a military spec tube. These are all low microphonic thanks to their rigid mica supports. Older versions have a third mica spacer near the top. These "triple mica" versions are in great demand today. These vintage tubes have just started to become a hot item, as NOS stocks of the West Europe types become harder to find. These tubes can withstand many on-off cycles and mechanical shock without a problem.
Personally, I have been wondering about the triple mica version of the Sylvania 5814A. But I am not willing to pay $100+ on the pair so the base Sylvania 5814A will have to do (ebay, yeah me too). However, if you guys got any of the triple mica Sylvania 5814A to test with the wa7tp, please, leave a comment about your impressions.
Note: I think finding the best pairing (<5% matching or grade "platinum" by some ebay sellers) will have a profound effect on the sound quality. I read that the major issue with the wa7 could be a mismatched in stereo channel or tubes. Sure, it may not be related with the PSU but I am a perfectionist anyway.
My WA7tp died on me yesterday and I was really crushed like what someone feels when a child does not open his eyes after shaking him to wake up. It was really heartbreaking.
I tried every possible solution within the realm of what I am allowed to do to make it work again like replacing the fuse and replacing the power cable. I have not moved them before they failed to work so I know the interconnects were fine.
After exhausting the last possible solution and not seeing them light up is disheartening. I just stared there thinking what it was that I ever did wrong: I have kept them some distance away from other heat sources to give them enough space to breathe. The AC was open 24/7. I have not used them for more than 3 hours in any one session. And I have not used them for more than 40 hours since I got them
I emailed jack about it and he told me that the spare fuse could also be faulty. I told him that I would look for a fuse in the market today and report back any development.
Has any of you guys had the same problem? I do hope that it's only the fuse. Since we are already in the child analogy, I don't want to send it for repairs because it feels like I would be sending a child to surgery and return as handicap, never whole again.
Yes I did check that although I have been using it for some days without problems and I was certain nobody else touched the it.
Turns out I was just extremely unlucky because the spare fuse that came along with the WA7tp was defective. For high quality fuses like this, the quality control reliability would be around 99.95%. And for me to have received a defective unit is something we can call a stroke of unluck. What are the odds really? I hope they check the fuse next time if it works because it's so hard to look for a fuse that is not normally used in everyday appliances.
I don't remember even getting a spare fuse with mine... is it in the fuse box or something?
I am still waiting on 1 of the 2 short DC power cords I ordered. Seems they forgot to throw one in the box.