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[DIY] Takstar Pro 80 - Removable cable mod. - Page 3

post #31 of 41
Thread Starter 
Sorry guys. But WTF is going on in those pictures?
post #32 of 41
Great thread. I'll give this a try on my new Pro80's (and probably HI2050 as well if I succeed) when I get the time.
post #33 of 41
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter123 View Post

Great thread. I'll give this a try on my new Pro80's (and probably HI2050 as well if I succeed) when I get the time.

 

Thanks mate! It's a good project which, like the HM pad mod, makes the Pro 80 much more convinient to use!

post #34 of 41

Did anyone try to make the removable cable mod with a miniXLR connector instead of the 3.5mm TRS?

post #35 of 41
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal Rockwell View Post

Did anyone try to make the removable cable mod with a miniXLR connector instead of the 3.5mm TRS?

Not sure, but its definitely doable.
post #36 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJScope View Post


Not sure, but its definitely doable.

 

I did it but I had to modify the baffle so the socket will fit inside the cup. I'm afraid that modifying the baffle caused a channel imbalance. I'm curious if anyone else succeeded modding the PRO 80 without altering the baffle or did altered it but didn't causing imbalance.


Edited by Hal Rockwell - 10/8/15 at 4:26am
post #37 of 41

I've modded two pairs of Takstars now, HI2050 and the Pro 80s both were fairly straight forward. Both sets have been converted to 4 pole mini XLR and I've created new cables for each with interchangeable ends - mini XLR, 3.5mm stereo - in case I decide to get a balanced amp in the future. To avoid cutting I used sugru to secure the socket in the ear cup rather than the nut that came with the XLR. The cable is 26 AWG silver plate PTFE insulated.

 

Here's some pics, compared to the DT990s I did, these are far more robust. The picture of the 990s shows the interchangeable end piece.

 

 

 

post #38 of 41
Thread Starter 

Looks great!

post #39 of 41

Thanks for a very helpful article which allowed me to repair my sons Hyperx cloud II headphones with inbuilt mic.

The solution of fitting the socket into the headphones themselves is a far better option than trying to solder a new 4 pole jack to a dodgy cable as the choice of components is superior when it comes to the socket (I used a Lumberg 1502 02 4 pole socket) & the soldering process is less fiddly & part of the old cable can be used to create the new link wires. Then I just used a flat type 4 pole to 4 pole 3.5mm male to male cable in red to complete the repair because if if the jack connections are  faulty you can just send it back to the supplier for a refund or replacement & if it wears out you fit a new one.

post #40 of 41
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by n-peckdd View Post
 

Thanks for a very helpful article which allowed me to repair my sons Hyperx cloud II headphones with inbuilt mic.

The solution of fitting the socket into the headphones themselves is a far better option than trying to solder a new 4 pole jack to a dodgy cable as the choice of components is superior when it comes to the socket (I used a Lumberg 1502 02 4 pole socket) & the soldering process is less fiddly & part of the old cable can be used to create the new link wires. Then I just used a flat type 4 pole to 4 pole 3.5mm male to male cable in red to complete the repair because if if the jack connections are  faulty you can just send it back to the supplier for a refund or replacement & if it wears out you fit a new one.

 

That's a good chassis socket. You can also get similar 4P ones with silver or gold plated contacts. I use this plug in my I/O audio switch.

post #41 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by n-peckdd View Post

Thanks for a very helpful article which allowed me to repair my sons Hyperx cloud II headphones with inbuilt mic.



The solution of fitting the socket into the headphones themselves is a far better option than trying to solder a new 4 pole jack to a dodgy cable as the choice of components is superior when it comes to the socket (I used a Lumberg 1502 02 4 pole socket) & the soldering process is less fiddly & part of the old cable can be used to create the new link wires. Then I just used a flat type 4 pole to 4 pole 3.5mm male to male cable in red to complete the repair because if if the jack connections are  faulty you can just send it back to the supplier for a refund or replacement & if it wears out you fit a new one.


 



I have the HyperX Cloud II and I would like to mod them to make the cable removable.
Do you remember which wire goes where on the socket (if they were color coded)?
If I connect the wires the wrong way, is there a chance of me ruining the headset?
Any tips you can give me?
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