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= HiFiMAN HE-560 Impressions & Discussion Thread = - Page 26

post #376 of 17297
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerg View Post
 

Experience. ;) 

 

Edit: and logic.

 

Edit 2: YGPM.


ROFL Jerg, honestly all of these mods you are going to do will cause hifiman to create revisions of the 'phone.

post #377 of 17297
Quote:

Originally Posted by jerg View Post

 

The quick and dirty explanation is that I realized that the plastic baffle ring (which the earpad mounting tabs slot into) which is supposed to be conducting very low frequencies, makes terrible contact with the drivers due to a bunch of driver screws propping it up at various spots; simply adding strips of thick creatology adhesive-backed felt all along the outer perimetres of the driver, so that the baffle ring sits onto it but screws in securely as well, boosts the contact between the baffle and the driver immensely.

 

(What i spent most of the last 3 hours on, for anyone who cares, was I tediously carved out holes on the baffle rings to let the driver screws through, before doing what I described above).


Hmm... I'm interested to see your findings with that mod on the HE500. Are you pulling the plastic ring away from the driver and putting the felt between the driver and ring? It comes apart without damaging anything?

Is there enough room to put felt between the outside edge of the plastic ring and driver so that those two are making more contact with the wood? I would think that would further increase bass with resonance to the wood. (I'm talking about where your thumb is)


 

And it seems like there's felt already between the ring and driver, no?

post #378 of 17297
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerg View Post
 

If you have a hand drill with a small drill-bit (~4mm diametre) then you could make short work of the additional holes for the screw protrusions; otherwise don't bother unless your pseudo-OCD gets triggered.

 

Without having seen what I'm getting into, I'm thinking I can trim the felt enough to create the openings for the screws.  Did you measure and cut a full ring of felt to fit on the baffle, and then cut the screw holes in the ring?  Kinda sounds like it.  I was thinking of pieces cut to fit the spaces between the screw holes, and then just trimming a small portion to create the space for the screws.  Again, I'm flying blind here, so perhaps I'll discard that idea when I open them up.

post #379 of 17297
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundsgoodtome View Post
 


Hmm... I'm interested to see your findings with that mod on the HE500. Are you pulling the plastic ring away from the driver and putting the felt between the driver and ring? It comes apart without damaging anything?

Is there enough room to put felt between the outside edge of the plastic ring and driver so that those two are making more contact with the wood? I would think that would further increase bass with resonance to the wood. (I'm talking about where your thumb is)


 

And it seems like there's felt already between the ring and driver, no?

 

Red arrows are where there are hidden or partially hidden silver screw protrusions from the actual driver assembly sandwich; they push up the baffle ring at all those spots; blue arrow shows how there is basically air between the baffle and the driver pretty much all the way around, except small stretches where the black screws bolt down the baffle.

 

What I did was carve out holes to let ALL those silver driver screw nubs pass the baffle unhindered, and then add thick felt all the way on the driver (with the baffle taken off), put and screw the baffle back on, and voila, proper low end conduction. No more half-measures.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

Without having seen what I'm getting into, I'm thinking I can trim the felt enough to create the openings for the screws.  Did you measure and cut a full ring of felt to fit on the baffle, and then cut the screw holes in the ring?  Kinda sounds like it.  I was thinking of pieces cut to fit the spaces between the screw holes, and then just trimming a small portion to create the space for the screws.  Again, I'm flying blind here, so perhaps I'll discard that idea when I open them up.

 

I did it the ghetto way and just eyeballed and cut out bits to fit between the screws / screw holes on the driver, that worked fine enough. Sure you can do it more perfectly (maybe I will too in the future, when my hands are no longer cramped from carving out holes in the plastic).


Edited by jerg - 3/28/14 at 9:56pm
post #380 of 17297
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerg View Post
 

 

Red arrows are where there are hidden or partially hidden silver screw protrusions from the actual driver assembly sandwich; they push up the baffle ring at all those spots; blue arrow shows how there is basically air between the baffle and the driver pretty much all the way around, except small stretches where the black screws bolt down the baffle.

 

What I did was carve out holes to let ALL those silver driver screw nubs pass the baffle unhindered, and then add thick felt all the way on the driver (with the baffle taken off), put and screw the baffle back on, and voila, proper low end conduction. No more half-measures.

 

 

I did it the ghetto way and just eyeballed and cut out bits to fit between the screws / screw holes on the driver, that worked fine enough. Sure you can do it more perfectly (maybe I will too in the future, when my hands are no longer cramped from carving out holes in the plastic).


Gotcha! Man you're making the guys building this at Hifiman look bad. Lol

And you need to get a basic dremel kit man.

post #381 of 17297
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerg View Post
 

 

Red arrows are where there are hidden or partially hidden silver screw protrusions from the actual driver assembly sandwich; they push up the baffle ring at all those spots; blue arrow shows how there is basically air between the baffle and the driver pretty much all the way around, except small stretches where the black screws bolt down the baffle.

 

What I did was carve out holes to let ALL those silver driver screw nubs pass the baffle unhindered, and then add thick felt all the way on the driver (with the baffle taken off), put and screw the baffle back on, and voila, proper low end conduction. No more half-measures.

 

 

I did it the ghetto way and just eyeballed and cut out bits to fit between the screws / screw holes on the driver, that worked fine enough. Sure you can do it more perfectly (maybe I will too in the future, when my hands are no longer cramped from carving out holes in the plastic).

 

If the HE-500s are like that (and I guess they must be), then I can see it's more complicated than I was imagining.  I wasn't thinking holes in the plastic, but your pic clearly illustrates the unevenness you mentioned.  So the holes you cut in the plastic (baffle) ameliorate that problem, and the felt fills the gap.  Definitely something better handled during production.  I'll have to think about it now.


If you didn't use a drill, how did you cut the holes?

 

Sorry for dragging this OT.

post #382 of 17297

What about blue-tack putty, instead of felt?

 

If it's good enough to fix a Stax O2 Mk2 to seal the bass port...

post #383 of 17297
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

If the HE-500s are like that (and I guess they must be), then I can see it's more complicated than I was imagining.  I wasn't thinking holes in the plastic, but your pic clearly illustrates the unevenness you mentioned.  So the holes you cut in the plastic (baffle) ameliorate that problem, and the felt fills the gap.  Definitely something better handled during production.  I'll have to think about it now.


If you didn't use a drill, how did you cut the holes?

 

Sorry for dragging this OT.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict View Post
 

What about blue-tack putty, instead of felt?

 

If it's good enough to fix a Stax O2 Mk2 to seal the bass port...

 

That might work better actually, if you don't do the extra step in drilling holes for the silver screws to pass through, since the putty will spread itself evenly regardless of unevenness in the spacing. I just have adhesive-backed felt on hand (used that for the Fuzzor mod).


Edited by jerg - 3/28/14 at 10:17pm
post #384 of 17297

Jerg HE-700 (Dr. Fang mod)....this is what we are heading towards.

post #385 of 17297
wonder if any last minute tweaking will be done based on reviews or if production is already being ramped up.
post #386 of 17297
This is more than likely going to cause further revisions, which is just unfortunate, as it's gonna make people feel like they shouldn't ever buy the first model of headphones Hifiman puts out.

So much R&D and they can't seem to get these seemingly simple things right.

While I didn't feel the re-grilling mod did much of anything, these are things they also should've tried to improve, but instead were left just the same as before.

Hopefully some of these fixes will be utilized in the 400i from the get go.

They really should just hire Jerg...
Edited by Mad Lust Envy - 3/28/14 at 11:21pm
post #387 of 17297
Thread Starter 

I'm beginning to feel the transient speed of these cans. I thought HE400/500 articulated complex / fast music well, but these are lightning fast.

post #388 of 17297
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerg View Post
 

I might contact Dr. Fang about it...seems like a minor design oversight that could be easily adjusted for a lot of improvement (especially for subbass-head customers, which seems to be about 80% of Head-fiers).

Please DO contact Dr. Fang about this and let us know his response.

post #389 of 17297
FYI all older models including the he6 are built in the same fashion.
post #390 of 17297

It's pretty surprising how Hifiman never seems to realize that a SOLID driver with everything in FULL contact with it will of course provide the best conduction of low freq...

Is this something that should be done with the HE-500? What kinds of things should we be careful of?

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