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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 387

post #5791 of 13839
Quote:
Originally Posted by markkr View Post

WOW am I confused on wire... I have read all the way back to the mid-200's (pages)...

 

I would like to build some mini-RCA, and mini-mini, and mini-iPod LOD cables. If I order cable from "navships" on eBay, which gauge should I buy and how much in length (I'd like to make a mini-hobby out of this).

 

HELP!


24AWG should work well for most audio applications, but 26 or 28AWG would work very well for LODs, mini-mini and mini-RCAs too.

Just to keep things simple I use 24AWG for almost everything, but slimmer wires might be easier to work with, especially on LODs.

post #5792 of 13839

x2 on 24AWG (or 0.5mm 24.5AWG) I use it for 95% of all cables I make, 26AWG is another favorite, with those 2 you can make pretty much anything you like except maybe speaker cables unless yo use multiple runs

post #5793 of 13839

oh and limpitglitch, you are incorrect about the 75R coax, 75R coax is talking about characteristic impedance, not the impedance of the individual wires. Characteristic impedance is more about the distance between the conductors, shield and the dielectric than the resistance of the wires. think about it, how could something maintain 75R series impedance regardless of its length? 75R coax will work just fine as an analogue interconnect, it will not attenuate the signal. sure there might be better things to use, but I just had to clear that up.

 

if you test 75R coax with a multimeter you will not get 75R. Characteristic impedance is about stopping reflections

post #5794 of 13839

Thanks for clearing that up.

I had in fact been wondering about that apparent problem, but couldn't make any sense of it.

post #5795 of 13839

no problem, its convoluted for the professionals, no surprise it was vexing you. generally a SPDIF transmission line will also be terminated at the beginning and end with a resistor of 50R or 75R (110R for balanced AES) so this sets the impedance, then the cable must do its best to maintain this to keep jitter and reflections to a minimum, but its nigh impossible to do as long as an RCA connector and solder is involved anyway. the conductor and shield must maintain a constant and proportionate distance the length of the cable and BNC (preferably solderless) is about the only way to do it. there are mini BNC terminations that can do it also, both signal and ground must extend all the way to the connection at the other end uniformly and RCA prevents this from being physically possible. You can get close with eichmann RCA, but it will almost never be perfect, especially with solder involved. best way to achieve it is with a transformer.

 

anyway any further is OT

post #5796 of 13839

a little help pls.. is this pic correct? im not sure about the ground and mic, pls enlighten me..

 

86752746.jpg

post #5797 of 13839

I cant be sure, but it would make more sense for the ground to be the last one and the mic 3rd from the left. there are many other companies that make 4 conductor mini jacks, so a search of a datasheet of one of them would tell you.

post #5798 of 13839

It is often depending on the manufacturer. There is not 'one' standard for a four pin 3.5mm jack.

 

Also the fourth or third pin can be used for video.

 

Any pin-connection schedule should always say which product.

 

You best use this lead

http://pinouts.ru/connector/4_pin_3.5mm_2.5mm_plug_connector.shtml

 

So would you indicate (pin 4 = mic) is indeed for the iPhone

 

Rgds

 

Hans

post #5799 of 13839

i think i did it

 

smallhw.jpg

post #5800 of 13839

THANK YOU!!
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by limpidglitch View Post




24AWG should work well for most audio applications, but 26 or 28AWG would work very well for LODs, mini-mini and mini-RCAs too.

Just to keep things simple I use 24AWG for almost everything, but slimmer wires might be easier to work with, especially on LODs.

post #5801 of 13839

 


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Edited by Francisco - 5/26/10 at 12:41pm
post #5802 of 13839

These are my modded DT880 600s. Main reason for modding them were these cups that were not that nice when I got them (former owner did a duel entry mod).

 

P1040894.jpg?t=1274954889

 

So I used epoxy to fill the holes. Then a lot of sanding and finally I painted them. Cable is Mogami in nylon with Neutrik connectors. The XLRs are there for when I have fitted my buffalo with XLR output.

 

What's under the hood is my first try at NoXter's DT880 closeback mod. I taped the cups closed with only a small breathing hole and then stuffed the cups with felt. I am still waiting for my DT770 pads to arrive.

 

Anyways the end result (here shown with Jmoney pads):

P1040909.jpg?t=1274954652

 

P1040912.jpg?t=1274954651

post #5803 of 13839

nice work mate!! hope you got a good deal on them to start with, that dual entry 'mod' leaves a bit to be desired.....

 

@ Fransisco, you do realize those exposed connectors are going to cause noises whenever you brush against yourself or something that has even a slight electrical charge?? cool idea, but I would at the very least cover the solder joints with some epoxy or nail polish


Edited by qusp - 5/27/10 at 3:22am
post #5804 of 13839

Francisco thats a great idea! but as qusp said maybe you should cover them with something?


Edited by tamu - 5/27/10 at 9:01am
post #5805 of 13839

I only know a bit more than the basics about electricity and electronics, these were my first interconnects and I was actually expecting that sort of interferences. However, after a week of daily use that's not what I've found, everything has been running smoothly.

 

Thank you for your words and for your tips, I'll take them in account and put them to work in the future.

 

Note: The red wires are made of copper with enamel insulation.

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