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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 361

post #5401 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post

at this stage WayTooCrazy i'm thinking this is a problem with your source or amp, not the cable at all
I'd probably agree, but I'm using my new uDac as a source and have used other headphones with no problem, as well as the same K240 headphones with my 'working' cable and it has no problems either. I'm attempting to do a 'litz' braid with 2xground and 2xsignal for the audio, and then I'm going to run the Mic separate. I'm just not sure why this is an issue, when I used the Canare StarQuad with great success to achieve my dual signal cable. Could it be the Redco and Mogami aren't isolated enough in their cable that they bleed audio if I run too many signals through it?
post #5402 of 8529
Folks, I apologize if this is a little off-topic. I'm new to this tech and DIY sub-culture and I've heard this term used frequently. Would someone explain balanced to me in the context of cabling?
post #5403 of 8529
Here you go. A good and thorough explanation.
post #5404 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediaogre View Post
Folks, I apologize if this is a little off-topic. I'm new to this tech and DIY sub-culture and I've heard this term used frequently. Would someone explain balanced to me in the context of cabling?
Balanced has very little if anything to do with cabling, its about how signals are sent to the headphones. SE or single ended, has two channels (L+ and R+) with a ground for each channel (L- and R-). The signals go through L+ and R+ and a ground signal is sent through L- and R-. The ground signal is supposed to be as close as possible to a "zero" or some referred value from the design of an amplifier. For example, if you have an amp with a dedicated earth ground, it should be zero, but if you have a portable amp, your amp's design may set "ground" to say 0.1 volt or whatever other voltage may be easiest to work with.

On a balanced set up, you have 4 channels (L+,L-, R+, R-). The signals still go through L+ and R+ like in the SE setup, BUT the crucial difference is that the exact same signal but inverted is sent through L- and R-. So lets take for example a binary code of 1101101001010.
R+ = 1101101001010
R- = 0010010110101

and another signal would go through L+ and L- in the same way. The idea is if any noise disrupts R+, it would disrupt R- just as well. Since the signals are inverted with respect to one another, when they get to the headphone, the noise in R+ will cancel with the noise in R-. So the cables will pick up noise, but it will get rejected in how the signal is transmitted to the headphones. In addition since the signals are inverted with respect to each other, you end up hearing the difference between the signals and you end up getting some inherent amplification from a balanced configuration.

Quote:
i'd like to see that, even insanely tight braids dont cross at 90 degrees (more like 75-80), close but no cigar. I would never use starquad either. if I cant run 2 twisted pairs in parallel and shield them from each other I tend to twist them VERY lightly, like once every 20-30cm the wires this way do not cross at all, but they do go parallel every now and then, which has its own effect, but is IMO the lesser of the 2 evils. all exposed wire cables are a trade off, you can trade one effect for slightly more of another. of course sometimes I o indeed do a round braid if practicality dictates this, but its not ideal
I think we're talking about two things here. You're stating that the braids cross as 75-80 degrees, I think you're talking about the point where the two wires criss cross with one another. What I'm referring two with the signals being perpendicular is something like in this picture:
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...les/KSC_04.jpg

Take a look at the black and take a look at the clear wires. Those are perpendicular to one another. In fact if you "debraid" the wires and allow the black wires and clear wires to go back together separately, what you get are two wires that are twisted together. So the "perfect solution" to the issue of two sets of two wires twisted tightly is actually a round quad-litz braid. In a quad litz braid you have 2 sets of wires, twisted tightly and connected together perpendicularly so that any interference from one channel will cancel out due to the nature of electromagnetic fields.

The angle you referred would be the angle between the signal and ground, which still exists in the twisted wiring method and any and all forms of starquad. If you take a look, starquad is very bad because the angle is very small (approx 15 degrees) so the signal and ground wires have more "contact" with one another. Versus say a VERY tight braid, you get a little bit more like 50 degrees. Then with a round quad litz braid, you get as you say something around 70 degrees. As far as I'm concerned, the round quad litz braid offers the best in terms of any geometry available out there with the exception of induction (starquads will always result in the least induction in wires because they will reduce the wire's diameter by the most).
post #5405 of 8529

I STUPID!!!

I fixed my issue, it was on the XLR end... I wired it incorrectly... so I found a document that shows me the wiring setup (which I apparently looked at before), and fixed my problem... here's the cable.
post #5406 of 8529
How exactly did you wire the cable? At this point I'm now curious to see if your description of bleeding was actually just having the channels mixed up or if its something else entirely.
post #5407 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdupiano View Post
How exactly did you wire the cable? At this point I'm now curious to see if your description of bleeding was actually just having the channels mixed up or if its something else entirely.
Well, being the COMPLETE NOOB that I am, I wired the Mini-XLR with Pins 1 & 2 as Left and Right, and Pin 3 as Ground. I didn't realize that Pin 1 was Ground with 2 & 3 being signal wires. Once I did that , all was well. What I was getting was sound all the time in Left & Right at different volumes when I faded from Left to Right in WinAmp. I could not isolate either channel completely. I ended up buying 25ft of Redco and then 50ft of Mogami, 5 Mini-XLR and 6 sets of Stereo and Mono Neutrik mini din plugs trying to get rid of this issue... and it was all mine from the start... so not that I have spare plugs and wire... I'm gonna make up a bunch of these...
post #5408 of 8529
Well after a few months of reading this thred i thought i would actually contribute.

Here are some of the cables i've done. All for my 702's


This is the first one i made with much help from LingLing.

USES:
Mogami 2534
Viablue 3.5mm
Redco mini XLR
Black Techflex w/ white tracer



Second one
USES:
Mogami 2524
Pailiccs 3.5mm
Switchraft mini XLR
Nylon multifilament sleeving



Third One
USES:
Mogami 2534
Neutrik 3.5mm
Neutrik tiny XLR
Viablue neon sleeving





Fourth One- My favorite and the one I primarily use
USES:
Mogami 2534
Viablue 3.5mm
Neutrik tiny XLR
Nylon multifilament sleeving



post #5409 of 8529
Nice work!

Where did you buy the Viablue sleeving?
post #5410 of 8529
Thanks.

I got the viablue sleeving and 3.5mm plug at av-outlet.

they seem to have the best prices and is the only place i have seen viablue sleeving.
post #5411 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farnsworth View Post
Thanks.

I got the viablue sleeving and 3.5mm plug at av-outlet.

they seem to have the best prices and is the only place i have seen viablue sleeving.
I have recently purchased the same sleeving + the red one and am so anxious, especially now that i've seen you result, to get my Canare starquad and finally start making a cable.
post #5412 of 8529





post #5413 of 8529


just another mogami cable
post #5414 of 8529
That cable looks great momo! Where can I get that sleeving?
post #5415 of 8529
off Neotech NEVD-2001
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