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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 320

post #4786 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by scootermafia View Post
I think it's time to graduate to some Jena 18g...
$125 for 25 ft, vs less than $25 for 25ft of W2534... hmm...
post #4787 of 8529
Thanks, Gents!
post #4788 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by LingLing1337 View Post
$125 for 25 ft, vs less than $25 for 25ft of W2534... hmm...
Overpriced a little? Yes. But there's no comparison between the two. If Jena wasn't such an awful company, I'd still be using their wire. It really is in another class both in sound and workability. UP-OCC is as good but near impossible to find stranded in the specs most people need.
post #4789 of 8529
Double Helix Cables sells bulk wire for $2.50 for a foot (down to $2.00 a foot if you buy 300ft+). ALO and Whiplash audio also sell bulk stranded OCC, but at steeper rates.
post #4790 of 8529
I'm aware but there is very little variation within that market. Whiplash Audio sells Cryoparts wire and DHC's wire is oddly similar to that same TwCu from Cryoparts. ALO is the only one that offers the wire in an awg outside ~24awg but at $6, it's nearly the same price as buying from Jena. I loved the old Vampire CCC 22awg, as 22awg is the ideal awg for me, but it's hard to track down at reasonable prices these days.
post #4791 of 8529
And a recable!

AKG K81DJ


Mogami W2893
Switchcraft right angle mini (SOOOOOO much easier to use than the Neutrik's)
3/16" Nylon multifilament to the Y
1/8" Nylon multifilament on each twisted pair to the cups
1/2" 3 to 1 Heatshrink (with a little hot glue) for the Y split
Hot glue securing the wires inside the cup

Forgot to use heatshrink as a strain relief where the wires come out of the cups. Anyone have an idea on how to add something to prevent fraying without desoldering my connections and melting down all the hot glue? I could hot glue around the wire and fill in the holes, but that will make it a beotch to recable again, like I most likely will. Plus, it will take away from the clean look I worked pretty hard to get.

Anyways, critique away (nicely)!
post #4792 of 8529
Looks nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
Forgot to use heatshrink as a strain relief where the wires come out of the cups. Anyone have an idea on how to add something to prevent fraying without desoldering my connections and melting down all the hot glue? I could hot glue around the wire and fill in the holes, but that will make it a beotch to recable again, like I most likely will. Plus, it will take away from the clean look I worked pretty hard to get.
I doubt you'll have any problems with fraying, if by fraying you mean from wear.

se
post #4793 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
And a recable!

AKG K81DJ
[cut]

Mogami W2893
Switchcraft right angle mini (SOOOOOO much easier to use than the Neutrik's)
3/16" Nylon multifilament to the Y
1/8" Nylon multifilament on each twisted pair to the cups
1/2" 3 to 1 Heatshrink (with a little hot glue) for the Y split
Hot glue securing the wires inside the cup

Forgot to use heatshrink as a strain relief where the wires come out of the cups. Anyone have an idea on how to add something to prevent fraying without desoldering my connections and melting down all the hot glue? I could hot glue around the wire and fill in the holes, but that will make it a beotch to recable again, like I most likely will. Plus, it will take away from the clean look I worked pretty hard to get.

Anyways, critique away (nicely)!
Nice cable mang! I imagine it looks even nicer in person. But if you thought the Switchcraft was easy to work with, I don't even want to know the horror that must be a Neutrik right angle.
post #4794 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by LingLing1337 View Post
Nice cable mang! I imagine it looks even nicer in person. But if you thought the Switchcraft was easy to work with, I don't even want to know the horror that must be a Neutrik right angle.
The Neutrik comes in 5 pieces, and impossible for me to describe in words how much a pain it was to put them all together after soldering. With the Switchcraft, it is just two pieces like a straight plug. Plus it has a slightly bigger barrel so more room for me to work in.

Thanks for the positive comments folks! I can't believe how much fun I am having.
post #4795 of 8529
Yep, I used the Switchcraft, it's not bad at all, it just takes a bit more thought when stripping/cut the conductors.

Why in God's name would Neutrik make their right angle plug 5 pieces? Can you post pics so we can get an idea of this atrocity?

FraGGler, I know what you mean about having fun. Aside from milling/turning custom cups and painting, it really is the best way to customize your phones. There are so many options to show your creativity.
post #4796 of 8529
The Neutriks are easy to use, they're just limited to certain awg sizes. This can be worked around though if you absolutely need bigger awg but I don't see what the big deal is. I prefer the compactness of the Neutrik to the oversized Switchcraft.

http://www.neutrik.com/client/neutri..._944738487.pdf
post #4797 of 8529
I agree that they are more compact and in certain applications are better. As a beginner, I was completely dismayed that I had to not only solder in such as small space, but I had to do it neatly enough to bend over, fit the plastic cap on, plus fit the two metal pieces together tight enough to screw the body on. Plus the strain relief was too small to allow the Mogami W2893 I was using to pass through. Please don't forget that I just started soldering for the first time in my life a couple weeks ago so ease of use is a big deal for me and probably anyone just starting out. After having done 5 of the Neutriks now, I am certainly better, but still don't like working with them.

Lingling, check out the pdf that Skyline posted. It gives an indication of all the pieces. All of mine are in use right now, so all I have are completed ones (see a page or so back for my mini to minis).
post #4798 of 8529
Hey FraGGleR, I saw you made a '3 foot mini to RCA' I'm looking to make the same thing and I was just wondering how the RCA plugs that you used were. Were they easy to work with? The only plugs i've worked with are RA Switchcraft 3.5mm plugs.
post #4799 of 8529
Well, they are the only RCA's I have ever used so I can't say if they are easier to use or not compared to others, however, I found them easy to work with. The only thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the ground since there isn't a hole to use as an anchor. I haven't had any problems yet, but my personal one doesn't get moved. The one I recently made will be the true test of how durable my cables are as my buddy has a tendency to inadvertantly test that characteristic of his posessions. BTW, daleproaudio.com has the Neutriks I use for about as low a price that I have seen with free shipping. They also have a great price on Switchcrafts basic RCA as well if you prefer to stick with them.
post #4800 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrozenGecko View Post
Hey FraGGleR, I saw you made a '3 foot mini to RCA' I'm looking to make the same thing and I was just wondering how the RCA plugs that you used were. Were they easy to work with? The only plugs i've worked with are RA Switchcraft 3.5mm plugs.
Hey man, if you order from Redco, check out their RRCA. I made a 3.5 jack-> RCA and a 3.5-> RCA with them, and the look great and are easy to work with. Highly recommended.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, most RCAs should be quite easy to work with, since they use two large contacts in stead of 3 smaller ones. I haven't used an RCA or mono 1/4" that's been hard to work with.
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