DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 210

I know. The Mogami 2534 sounded so much better than the cheapo mini-rca I used before. The biggest difference was in the presentation. It 'opened up'. Instead of a wall of sound, nuances appeared.

I few questions from a audio nub.

I recently ordered some audio techica ath-m30s and my only legitimate complaint about them (before using them) is that the cable is very long (11 ft) and uncoiled. So this might be a problem at work for obvious reasons.

I was thinking I would do this

1) reterminate the existing cord to around 2-4 inches and end in a female 1/8". or male if thats easier.
2) either order or make 2 cords (both male-male). One long uncoiled one and one shorted coiled one for work. Maybe I would use the existing 10ft or so of the original cord to make one.

then I could use one for work and one for home.

I went through a lot of pages in this thread and couldn't find anything on it.

Also, about all these ipod-male diy cables I''ve seen posted. What are these? They go into the ipod usb output and output audio as if it was coming from the top headphone output? They seem really useful for me if they are what I think they are.

They do not go to the iPod USB connections. The dock connector has pins right off the DAC, only degraded from noise and capacitance along the way to the bottom of the player. This is just wired to a stereo jack to go to a headphone amp. This way, the internal amp is bypassed.

My second/third Apogee Duet breakout cable. Made two of these: one for recording one for play back. They look identical. I kept the total length short (I bought a long firewire cable).

Wire is 24 guage solid core UPOCC. The Sub-D 9-pin is from RadioShack and this time it has a metal hood. The RCA's are Cardas SRCA.

Heat shrink from Fry's. Cardas solder from parts express (about a year ago they had a good price, believe it or not).

The omnipresent glare of my first try (Canare starquad) is gone. I like these cables. I like working with solid core. I had fun making these.

Now I've got to get to work recording some vinyl and VHS hi-fi.





I filed down (with dremmel) the sub-d hood's metal lip so its flush with the connector. Unlike my first attempt, these are now solid.

Looks good Ingwe!

Lots of nice looking cables on this page as well.

Mogami 2534 + hd600 connectors.

Made a balanced cable for my Emu soundcard to my B22 amp. Its Canare star quad in a multifilament sleeve terminated with Neutrik jacks and RCAs.

Cable by.. Actually, I'd prefer not to say; it's 4x22awg, insulated with ers paper and some form of cotton string in between the strand, twisted very tightly. Not as flexable as I'd like, but the sound, wow. Rich, full, and smooth. Much more critical of bad recordings, but it truely shines with a great recording.

And a neutrik np3tb plug. Which is a joy to work with.

update: Better pictures!

Looks real nice qusp

Glamorous smudge

Thanks for the kind words guys

I like it too... I also LUV my Nikon; I had seen those fingerprints LOL (especially in the 6MP photo) they magically appeared when I set the white balance and black point in Photoshop. It's nice to know that all those years spent as a graphic designer and compositor didn't go to waste (i'm a chef these days) More to come i'm building some today and tomorrow.

Less "microphonic" and shorter and lighter headphone cable for my AKGs, with tubing from The Chucks Connection. Kind of stiff, using 2 pair from a cat 5e cable...good excuse to try it again .
P.S.S. It's less loud than the stock one, but still quite "microphonic." The shoelace rubs on clothes and table top making noise that is far more muted than the stock cable, but it makes it more often. Removing the shoelace helps only mildly, so it looks like the next try needs to use loosely braided uber-flexible cables, instead of category cheapness.
Also, having experimented a bit, I won't be buying Neutrik NYS again (I got Switchcraft and Neutrik connectors). The Switchcraft mini tip connection isn't ideal (post, no hole/hook), but the mini and RCAs are far easier to use, don't seem to get nicked up much from banging around with other connector bits, and connect almost too securely. IMO, the shield/ground crimp point is worth the extra cost, all by itself.

The mini-XLRs are royal PITAs--well designed, but, still, PITAs. I would have loved for them to have a metal rear body. The rear body portion will not go on all the way, as the tabs from the shield insert scrape at it (it has a lip to push the shield insert and female connector end forward, but it cannot be hand-torqued flush), requiring some ugly plier work to bend them around a bit, so that they can fit flush.

P.S. as you might guess, I don't moonlight as a photographer .

I redid the shrink on my HD600 cable.

I just built a simple IC for the FiiO....Neutrik plugs (gifted to me by Pavel-FallenAngel ), heatshrink and some spare Canare Starquad. Found out that I don't really like the Neutrik plugs, as I had to drill the opening to 1/4" to fit the Starquad. The finish also seems to be easily scratched, and due to the smaller size of it, there's very little room to work with. I can now see why Switchcraft commands such a high price for their minis. It's more durable and has a lot more 'heft'...plus looks better...if only I could find a reliable cheap Canadian source......













Brendan

Let's take a step back for a second.

We've all heard of the 47ohm resistor mod for the Altec Lansing IM716, right?

I present to you, the 164 ohm im716.