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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 168

post #2506 of 8529
hey vixr what kinda braid is that? square?
post #2507 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnothingpoetic View Post




The wood cups (cocobolo) for the ms1 is being made by someone right now.
Hmm... did you layer the techflex? If so, do you have any idea how the microphonics of the layered techflex compare to just multifilament?
post #2508 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by drizek View Post
Check out seller navships on ebay for wire.

Make sure that the wire at your work is actually real teflon, they label a lot of cheaper quality material as being Teflon when it really doesn't have the same properties as the real thing.
Beware, FEP gets the teflon branding but want you really want is PTFE, which is the true teflon.
post #2509 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by threEchelon View Post
Beware, FEP gets the teflon branding but want you really want is PTFE, which is the true teflon.
thanks for the heads up, i'll make sure i check that.

assuming it's all good though, what gauge would i want to use for my ic? would three strands of 24 gauge be good for a mini-mini? and should i try and hunt down some 28 gauge for headphones, or would 30 be good?

i wrote down the digikey # for the electrolytic caps we have there, they're panasonic fm caps i'll probably use some of those for my pimeta, save a few bucks.
post #2510 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by threEchelon View Post
Hmm... did you layer the techflex? If so, do you have any idea how the microphonics of the layered techflex compare to just multifilament?
I didn't layer anything. I used heat shrink for the cable running from the drivers, then it goes to cotton sleeving (from a shoe), then cuts off early and I used techflex for the rest of it. I connected the techflex with the cotton sleeving with some heat shrink.

btw sorry for the color, I know it's off.
post #2511 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soymilk View Post
thanks for the heads up, i'll make sure i check that.

assuming it's all good though, what gauge would i want to use for my ic? would three strands of 24 gauge be good for a mini-mini? and should i try and hunt down some 28 gauge for headphones, or would 30 be good?

i wrote down the digikey # for the electrolytic caps we have there, they're panasonic fm caps i'll probably use some of those for my pimeta, save a few bucks.

I like 26 or 28awg for headphones, and 20-22awg for cables. If you want something a little larger you can use 18awg for cables.

just for reference cardas headphone cable has 4 24awg conductors
post #2512 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soymilk View Post
assuming it's all good though, what gauge would i want to use for my ic? would three strands of 24 gauge be good for a mini-mini? and should i try and hunt down some 28 gauge for headphones, or would 30 be good?
Solid core wire is generally accepted as sounding better than stranded (and non-litz) wire. 28 and 30 AWG are excellent gauges for both headphones cables and interconnects.
post #2513 of 8529
o, 30's good? maybe its just cuz everyones pictures are so big, it seemed to me like everyone was using thicker than 30.
post #2514 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soymilk View Post
o, 30's good? maybe its just cuz everyones pictures are so big, it seemed to me like everyone was using thicker than 30.
They are. Head-fi DIYer's are a fan of bigger is better, which is not the case in cables. Things are a lot different outside the head-fi community.
post #2515 of 8529
hmm, i guess i'll try taking some of 30 and 24 first (if i can't find other gauges) and do a braid w/ the number of strands i need and see how it feels. if i do headphones though they'll have 6, so a 6 stranded braid of 24 gauge is probably gonna be too thick. they'll have 6 cuz there'll be a mic, too.

is wiring up a mic the same as wiring a driver (one cable for signal / one cable for ground)? how does it get terminated? do you attach the signal to left and leave right blank? i'm curious because i plan on sticking my ksc75 drivers into a gaming headset's housing, but this headset has all of the wires coming out of the left ear bundled together, so if i recable it, i'm going to have to recable the mic, too.
post #2516 of 8529
6 of 24 is way too thick. Definitely go for 30 or 28 if you can find it.
post #2517 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by drizek View Post
6 of 24 is way too thick. Definitely go for 30 or 28 if you can find it.
ya thats what i was thinking.
post #2518 of 8529
Does anyone from sweden (or anywhere) know a swedish web shop where I can buy cables thin enough for recabling headphones, etc, that is about 26-28 AWG, or 0,1-0,07 mm2 or something like that. I know Clas ohlson has but i can figure out from the price and quality of theirs that the wires won't work very well with headphones, I think it would ruin the sound quality. Well, come up with suggestions, anything is welcome!
post #2519 of 8529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lpe_91 View Post
Does anyone from sweden (or anywhere) know a swedish web shop where I can buy cables thin enough for recabling headphones, etc, that is about 26-28 AWG, or 0,1-0,07 mm2 or something like that. I know Clas ohlson has but i can figure out from the price and quality of theirs that the wires won't work very well with headphones, I think it would ruin the sound quality. Well, come up with suggestions, anything is welcome!
Elfa has teflon coated silverplated copper that I use for my wiring. Havent tried it on headphones though. just search for "PTFE-isolerad kopplingstråd" and you will find it. Its available from AWG32 to AWG16.
post #2520 of 8529

Neutrik RCA to RCA 99.999% Solid Copper


Switchcraft Right Angled Mini to Mini with 99.999% Solid Silver [I know these are over done but ]
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