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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 911

post #13651 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post
 

 

 

 

This belongs in the other thread. But I'll respond quickly. Going to post a video showing this eventually, but you guys are doing it wrong. 

Push in the shielding on one side so that the braid expands in a bulb-like fashion. Once it's loose at that end you can simply pull it down, (in the same direction that you pushed to loosen it),  and it slides right off the other side. Takes less than 20 seconds. Length really doesn't matter that much in the process. 

Best way.


Edited by Toxic Cables - 5/19/14 at 3:15pm

http://www.toxic-cables.co.uk                  PREPARE TO BE INTOXICATED

 

 

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post #13652 of 13943

Nothing fancy at all. I bought the Bose AE2 on eBay with the 2.5mm connector broken off inside the headphone's 2.5mm chassis. I just took that chassis out and straight cabled it with Mogami w2893>Pailiccs 3.5mm connector. I needed something simple for when I'm outside working on the cars or whatever it may be without worrying about damaging my nice headphones. 

 

 

 

post #13653 of 13943
'bout as small as I can get for an interconnect
works great


post #13654 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by Assy McGhee View Post

'bout as small as I can get for an interconnect
works great
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



 

Well done, me likes! How´s the sound? What cables are that?

post #13655 of 13943
Thanks
Sound is great
The cable is taken from Mogami 2799
post #13656 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by Assy McGhee View Post

'bout as small as I can get for an interconnect
works great


Sexy stuff!

post #13657 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post
 

 

 

 

This belongs in the other thread. But I'll respond quickly. Going to post a video showing this eventually, but you guys are doing it wrong. 

Push in the shielding on one side so that the braid expands in a bulb-like fashion. Once it's loose at that end you can simply pull it down, (in the same direction that you pushed to loosen it),  and it slides right off the other side. Takes less than 20 seconds. Length really doesn't matter that much in the process. 

 

But in doing this don't you just not use the shielding at all? Isn't the whole point of shielding to use as the ground so you can use 2 wires for the signal?

post #13658 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmoe View Post
 

 

But in doing this don't you just not use the shielding at all? Isn't the whole point of shielding to use as the ground so you can use 2 wires for the signal?

Canare star quad L-4E5C, (and others that are similar), have 4 total wires inside. Yes, removing the shielding means I don't plan on using it at all. I use 1 wire for each L & R signals and 2 wires for ground. Occasionally, I'll even remove a wire and just have the 3 for a slightly smaller footprint. Really no reason to run multiple wires to the same point. It's just more potential for issues, but that's my opinion. Anytime I run more than the absolutely necessary number of wires, it's purely for aesthetics. 

Shielding is heavy, and I have no issues with EMI or RFI in any of the places I've lived. While shielding absolutely has its purpose, I really have no use for it 95% of the time. 

post #13659 of 13943

Yes I get what you're saying but that means you can't use the cable to do balanced recables either. That's why I prefer Cardas for example, with a non-braided shielding, it really makes things easier to seperate the shielding into 2 strands so you can use it for grounding and keep the signal cables for their intended use.

post #13660 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmoe View Post
 

Yes I get what you're saying but that means you can't use the cable to do balanced recables either. That's why I prefer Cardas for example, with a non-braided shielding, it really makes things easier to seperate the shielding into 2 strands so you can use it for grounding and keep the signal cables for their intended use.

 

I have 4 wires. How is it that you don't think someone could do a balanced connection? L+, R+, L-, R-  = 4 wires. 

post #13661 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post
 

 

I have 4 wires. How is it that you don't think someone could do a balanced connection? L+, R+, L-, R-  = 4 wires. 

 

But no ground?

post #13662 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmoe View Post

But no ground?

The L- and R- are grounds in a balanced setup. The L+ and R+ are signal.
post #13663 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmoe View Post
 

 

But no ground?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post


The L- and R- are grounds in a balanced setup. The L+ and R+ are signal.

kamakahah is right. the L- and R- are the grounds in a 4-pin setup. not sure what you are worried about, elmoe...

post #13664 of 13943

From nikongod in another thread:

 

Quote:
 

The 4-pin XLR has a perfect place to hook up a shield in the shell of the plug. 

Since it is not common to hook up pin 1 on 3pinXLR headphone outputs - grounding to pin1 is the same as not grounding! 

 

The third wire (pin 1) is not supposed to play the role of a shield, it is supposed to send a ground reference from device to device. The shell of the plug is supposed to play the role of the shield. 

 

A **Wire** does basically nothing to shield against RF. you need a braided metal, or wrapped foil shield to stop RF. At that point, yes, you ground one end. 

 

Are you surprised to hear that I would argue in favor of shielding? I love the idea of shielding cables, even output cables (gasp). The problem is that not everyone hooks up pin 1 on a 3pinXLR when used as a headphone output. The odds of you finding pin 1 hooked up are FAR lower than the odds of you finding the shell of the plug grounded to the chassis. So hook the shield to the shell of the 4-pin plug and be done with it.

 

So it seems to me that if you want to build a proper 4 pin XLR balanced cable, you need the shield grounded to the shell...

post #13665 of 13943
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmoe View Post
 

From nikongod in another thread:

 

 

So it seems to me that if you want to build a proper 4 pin XLR balanced cable, you need the shield grounded to the shell...

You don't need to.  Most cables and amps don't have it hooked up anyway.  

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