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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 901

post #13501 of 15065

Thanks for all the replies. I was going to just strip the 4 wires out of the cable and then work from there. Is there anything wrong with going about it this way?

post #13502 of 15065

Maybe you've posted it further back but what are you trying to do exactly?

 

The hardest part about making cables is usally to make everything line in in terms of lenght, and to put that connector end cap on the cable BEFORE you solder on the connector. :rolleyes:

post #13503 of 15065
No no. Ive made several cables. Someone mentioned working with the shielding in the canare cables. I usually just use them for the inside 4 wires and toss the shielding. Im wondering if what im doing is wrong or something.

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post #13504 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by slokenafk View Post

No no. Ive made several cables. Someone mentioned working with the shielding in the canare cables. I usually just use them for the inside 4 wires and toss the shielding. Im wondering if what im doing is wrong or something.

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Nothing wrong with that. Just loosen one end of the shield and you can slide the whole thing off my pushing the loose end down the cable. Saves ages of time compared to unbraiding the shielding.
post #13505 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoEars View Post

Maybe you've posted it further back but what are you trying to do exactly?

The hardest part about making cables is usally to make everything line in in terms of lenght, and to put that connector end cap on the cable BEFORE you solder on the connector. rolleyes.gif

No matter how many cables I make, I still forget on occasion.
post #13506 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post


No matter how many cables I make, I still forget on occasion.

me, too. in fact, i just did that the other night. got so excited to finally put the xlr connector on the cable that i forgot to put the butt end first...had to desolder and start all over. the hd800 cable i just made was a puzzle in making sure i had all the right lengths of heatshrink, correct colors, and the end cap that screws onto the connector. that was harder than doing the actual soldering. 

post #13507 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Same here, been a board level consumer electronics technician since the 70's and I have used nothing but Kester 60/40 rosin core. Many years and zillions of solder connections later I've never had a problem with it either. Anyone who has ever replaced all the ram on Commodore 64's know what I'm talking about... biggrin.gif
Kester 60/40 is definitely good stuff, if that's what you've used and had good results with, it makes sense to stay with it, no disrespect to 60/40 users intended.
Various silver solders are quite good too, Cardas and WBT included.
These days it's "PC" to use a lead free solder, I have the Mundorf Supreme version that is 9% silver, and even has a little bit of both gold and copper in it, but I haven't brought myself to use it yet because the leaded version of WBT is so darned good.
post #13508 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyFresh View Post


Kester 60/40 is definitely good stuff, if that's what you've used and had good results with, it makes sense to stay with it, no disrespect to 60/40 users intended.
Various silver solders are quite good too, Cardas and WBT included.
These days it's "PC" to use a lead free solder, I have the Mundorf Supreme version that is 9% silver, and even has a little bit of both gold and copper in it, but I haven't brought myself to use it yet because the leaded version of WBT is so darned good.

 

I'd definitely go with 37/63 as it's a eutectic ratio for lead and tin for obvious reasons - eutectic simply means that both elements melt at the same temperature at this ratio.

post #13509 of 15065

If you can keep the parts motionless during cooling it's a moot point. I've had some GRS third hands for awhile now and hey rock for holding pieces in place. Couldn't have done the Lemos for my T70 recable half as easily without them.

post #13510 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65535 View Post
 

If you can keep the parts motionless during cooling it's a moot point. I've had some GRS third hands for awhile now and hey rock for holding pieces in place. Couldn't have done the Lemos for my T70 recable half as easily without them.


I also have a GRS, I use their Double Third Hand Soldering Station. Definitely a big help in proper soldering and cable construction, as you said, it rocks.

 

In this picture I am repairing a Pangea P-100 regulator board, pieces of the removed disintegrated fried ceramic capacitor are visible on the soldering board base of the GRS.

 

GRS 3rd hands holding Pangea P-100 regulator board during repair of fried capacitor.

 

I use the WBT-0800 solder due to it's very low melting point of 356° F, which limits overheating stress on the iron and tip, extending their life span. Makes things a little bit faster too. WBT also has excellent flux and easy workability/flow characteristics, even a beginner can use it with no trouble.

 

Sorry if this is a bit off the gallery thread topic.


Edited by MikeyFresh - 4/30/14 at 6:26am
post #13511 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by FallenAngel View Post
 

 

I'd definitely go with 37/63 as it's a eutectic ratio for lead and tin for obvious reasons - eutectic simply means that both elements melt at the same temperature at this ratio.


That's a great point, and there are tri-eutectic (tin/silver/copper) and quad-eutectic (tin/lead/silver/copper) versions that have the same melting/solidification characteristics. Cardas is excellent for the relatively low price per gram.


Edited by MikeyFresh - 4/30/14 at 6:25am
post #13512 of 15065

Not much of a good price when compared to more readily available solders, and it's just marketing fluff. We build high precision sensing equipment at work, 60/40 is great for all we do.

post #13513 of 15065
I've only used kester 60/40 for all my projects and have never had any problems.
post #13514 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65535 View Post
 

Not much of a good price when compared to more readily available solders, and it's just marketing fluff. We build high precision sensing equipment at work, 60/40 is great for all we do.


But not everyone has the third hands tool, or is a veteran pro at soldering.

 

For them a 63/37, or tri/quad eutectic may prove easier to work with, or easier to get the desired result.

 

It's not expensive in small amounts. For most people that will end up being a lifetime supply, granted you do EASILY see the price difference on a big roll, but typically only professionals or hard core enthusiasts buy that large amount.

 

But I understand why the Kester 44 crowd likes it, or why if you've had good results with 60/40 that you'd stay with it. There's room for other formulations too however, I know if you tried WBT 0800 you'd like it, maybe excepting the price, because there isn't anything else not to like about it.

post #13515 of 15065
This is the gallery thread. Good topic to discuss but we should take it to an appropriate thread.
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