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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 10

post #136 of 8527
HD555 DIY Custom Cable

22 awg Silver Plated Copper, teflon dielectric, military spec
WBT 4% Silver Solder
Neutrik Gold Plated Mini
Litz Braided
Stock HD555 Gold Pins

--Illah

post #137 of 8527
Nice HD600 mod. Makes me want to do mine.

Highflying9 How good are the Neutrik Prof connectors? I'm contemplating buying thoes from a local store or importing a set of WBTs from THLAudio.
post #138 of 8527
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illah
HD555 DIY Custom Cable

22 awg Silver Plated Copper, teflon dielectric, military spec
WBT 4% Silver Solder
Neutrik Gold Plated Mini
Litz Braided
Stock HD555 Gold Pins

--Illah


hey it looks good!
I'm a 515/555 look fan
How do the cable work with the headphones ?
post #139 of 8527
Quote:
Originally Posted by boodi
hey it looks good!
I'm a 515/555 look fan
How do the cable work with the headphones ?
Definetely improved the sound, it's clearer and more detailed. It opened up the sound a bit. It didn't give more bass/treble or anything, but it did add a bit more 'life' to the sound (hope that makes sense, I'm still new to audiophile lingo ).

Considering many feel the 555/595 are so close in sound, the upgraded cable may have made this into a mini-595!

--Illah
post #140 of 8527
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garbz
Nice HD600 mod. Makes me want to do mine.

Highflying9 How good are the Neutrik Prof connectors? I'm contemplating buying thoes from a local store or importing a set of WBTs from THLAudio.
The ProFis are very solid and easy to use, as far as sonic improvements the only RCA I've ever found to make a difference is the Eichmann bullet plugs, although I haven't tried WBTs yet. I made the ProFi interconnects to plug into a sub $200 amp so they don't have to be reference quality.
post #141 of 8527
Quote:
Originally Posted by MD1032
Figured I'd add my Cat5 cable here:



(I paid 4 bucks a piece for those darn plugs...stupid Radio Shack)



It works perfectly so far! It's great to have a short cable around.
An update: make sure you keep your wires seperated from electrical contact with one another within the jack!

Today I took my amp and MD player to the game (I play in the Marching Band) and to my horror, my cable that I constructed a while back didn't work in the left channel! I was a little faulty when I first made it, but jiggling one of the ends fixed it.

Well this particulat end was kind of a struggle for me. I ended up soldering the ground wire twice because the first time it refused to mkae contact, so the CAT5 cable's blue casing kind of melted where I had the clips on the ground part of the plug clipped to the cable. Well it turns out that some part of this clip was making contact with the left channel, grounding it and obviously giving me nothing. I had to unclip the clip part, just wrap a big piece of electrical tape around the whole junk of blue casing and WHAM! fixed! I also put new tape in between the ground and left and right channels, just in case.

In conclusion, make sure you keep these suckers seperated, and tape well! Now no amount of jiggling makes the cable stop working, to my pleasure.

Happy DIY'ing! I like this cable very much, it works perfectly.
post #142 of 8527
half the cat 5 cables i made ended up chopped up and in the bin. seems the solid core doesn't like to be thrown around the way i throw it around, static applications only from now on!!
post #143 of 8527
Thread Starter 
2.5' RCA CABLES
Sleeve: 14 ga. Teflon
Conductor: 24 ga. Pure Silver .9999
Config: TriBraid (one empty)
Termination: Eichmann Bullet Plugs
Approximate Materials Cost: $60/pr.

I made these to look similar to my Bogdan Silver Princesses

1 METER RCA CABLES
Sleeve: 18 ga. Teflon
Conductor: 24 ga. Pure Silver .9999
Config: TriBraid (one empty)
Termination: Eichmann Bullet Plugs
Approximate Materials Cost: $65/pr.
post #144 of 8527
Quote:
Originally Posted by MD1032
In conclusion, make sure you keep these suckers seperated, and tape well! Now no amount of jiggling makes the cable stop working, to my pleasure.
I always use epoxy. Filling in epoxy all over inside the plug helps. The connection will not get loosened and the resistance against any mechanical shocks is much better. This prevents any oxidation as well.

Of course you can't fix it after that. You really need to do it right once.
post #145 of 8527
Very nice work on those rca cables highflyin9! I was wondering where do you buy your Eichmann bullets. Here in Sweden they cost about 65 bucks for two pairs, which I think is quite a lot. So it’s probably worth importing.

Nice work guys it’s really inspiring
post #146 of 8527
Thread Starter 
Hey nissenos, I got my most recent batch of them from HeadFier Jboele, but I believe he has sold all of them already. You may want to try MoonAudio, they should be ~$35 USD for a set of 4. Just a word of warning, if you are new to cablemaking the Eichmanns can be somewhat difficult to work with so here are some reminders:
1. They melt easily so you need to act quickly when soldering so the pins don't come out of place.
2. Build up layers of heatshrink underneath the RCA so the collarscrew has something to hold onto
3. The last layer of heatshrink that goes over the plug (the size is 1/4 i believe) has to come from the back of the plug, it won't slip over the plug from the front because of the sizing. Take this into account before soldering the second plug.
post #147 of 8527
Quote:
Originally Posted by silmaauki
I always use epoxy. Filling in epoxy all over inside the plug helps. The connection will not get loosened and the resistance against any mechanical shocks is much better. This prevents any oxidation as well.

Of course you can't fix it after that. You really need to do it right once.
Wow...you know what? I thought about doing that. Now I might just do it. It would be secure as HECK. Thanks for the tip.
post #148 of 8527
Testing RG-179 mini coax for interconnect. I braided the cable with 4x RG-179. The RG-179 is mini coax for high fequency signal normally use in telecom industry. The conductor is silver plated cooper. Looks like the silver layer is quite thick, I hardly see the cooper part. I think the insulator (jacket) is either PTFE of PVC, and I found to be very good, can stand the heat of soldering iron very well, didn't melt of change form.









post #149 of 8527
Very Clean bpribadi!!! I like it, I like it A lot.
post #150 of 8527
Yes let us know how they sound!
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