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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 900

post #13486 of 15041
He's avoiding answering. Didn't we just have a talk about committing? Lol.
post #13487 of 15041
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post

He's avoiding answering. Didn't we just have a talk about committing? Lol.

:beerchug:

post #13488 of 15041

coming up: my hd-800 cable. easiest part was soldering the wires to the pins. rest of the build was a pita. but, i think it turned out pretty well...

post #13489 of 15041

My Hardwired HD800 with 4-pin XLR & 6.3mm adapter. :o2smile:

 

 

 

Thick oxygen free copper all the way! No silver or fancy solder or other BS. :cool:

post #13490 of 15041

I see lots of mention of mogami cable, what about canare?

post #13491 of 15041

Nice job....nice cable!  Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder helps prevent oxidation, so it is worth the little bit extra cost!

post #13492 of 15041
Quote:
Originally Posted by slokenafk View Post

I see lots of mention of mogami cable, what about canare?

They are practically identical. Just very minor differences.
post #13493 of 15041
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post


They are practically identical. Just very minor differences.


+1, the main difference I see is the spiraled shield on Mogami which is a little bit easier to work with, compared to the braided shield on Canare which requires just a bit more time and care.

post #13494 of 15041

I like Canare because their braided shield resists twisting and permanent twists in the cable better, but Mogami et al. that use served shields are about 10x easier to work with because you don't have to unbraid the shield. Otherwise they're practically identical wires. Both excellent quality manufactures.

post #13495 of 15041
Quote:
Originally Posted by cute View Post
 

Nice job....nice cable!  Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder helps prevent oxidation, so it is worth the little bit extra cost!

 

I personally find oxidation on solder joints to be a very minor problem, if anything it's oxidation on bare copper wires that you want to worry about. Because that will happen. And in that case I like liquid electrial tape, with some practise you can even make it look nice.

 

About Mogami vs Canare, they're both very good. Quality when you hold it in your hand feels the same. Can't go wrong with either. I think Canare is about half the price of Mogami, don't know why really, so that might be a deciding factor.


Edited by TwoEars - 4/29/14 at 10:59am
post #13496 of 15041

Silver solder is far superior. It does nothing to the sound but holds up considerably better. Try doing 2 solders, 1 with silver and 1 with normal 60/40 and keep pulling at them. The 60/40 will fail much quicker then the silver will. I did multi test on this and every time the silver won hands down. I was able to have the 60/40 wire fail 3 times before the silver did. The silver only failed because the contact did. These test were done on a cheapie broken pair of headphones. 

post #13497 of 15041

my hd800 cable: BTG silver plated copper in litz braid. plussound y split. neutrik 4-pin xlr. 

 

soldering was actually quite easy. hardest part was ensuring all the heatshrink lengths were the right size and making sure i had them on the wires before attaching the housing to the pins. very light, very compact, and sounds pretty good.

 

 

 

post #13498 of 15041
Quote:
Originally Posted by Folex View Post
 

Silver solder is far superior. It does nothing to the sound but holds up considerably better. Try doing 2 solders, 1 with silver and 1 with normal 60/40 and keep pulling at them. The 60/40 will fail much quicker then the silver will. I did multi test on this and every time the silver won hands down. I was able to have the 60/40 wire fail 3 times before the silver did. The silver only failed because the contact did. These test were done on a cheapie broken pair of headphones. 


+1 on the silver solder.

 

I'd also add that the negative comment about silver or "fancy" solder doesn't take into account other important aspects such as the quality and effectiveness of the integral flux.

 

Something like WBT is not "fancy" and therefore expensive, it contains an extremely effective halogen-free flux that is gentle on precious metal surfaces, makes working with it a charm, and a low melting point means it doesn't need a ridiculously hot iron, it flows quite well. WBT also isn't some new-fangled audiophile thing, it's been around quite a long time now.

 

That's not to say there aren't various other good "old school" solders, there are. But some of the more expensive options like WBT, Oyaide, or Mundorf are really great stuff and shouldn't be knocked based on someone thinking they are "fancy". Try them and you will not be disappointed.

post #13499 of 15041

My comment about fancy solder was largely ironic anyways. Didn't realize it was such a hot topic! (no pun intended) :wink_face:

 

But honestly - I'm fine with standard 60/40. I know how to work it, never had any problems. Don't really see the need to change.

post #13500 of 15041
Same here, been a board level consumer electronics technician since the 70's and I have used nothing but Kester 60/40 rosin core. Many years and zillions of solder connections later I've never had a problem with it either. Anyone who has ever replaced all the ram on Commodore 64's know what I'm talking about... biggrin.gif
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