Now you know you just want to touch a soldering iron to a set of $450 WBT RCA Plugs...
I would just sit and stare at them all night.
Thinking why, why did you spend so much money on them...
And maybe how, how to sell it to someone else at little cost..
Silver 3.5mm - 3.5mm interconnect, Toxic Cables silver cable, Cardas silver solder, Sennheiser branded jacks:
It kinda sticks out a little, but in coat pockets it's fine. Couldn't use L jacks anyway as they would block the volume control. I'm happy with it the way it is :) (sounds awesome)
After a while with Moon cables that I found too much rigid and annoying, I decided to make my own headphone cables!
I finally gathered all the pieces, sat down and realised the below pieces.
My balanced RSA cable - 28 AWG 7N Pure UP-OCC Stranded Silver Plated Copper Custom Wire
My 4 foot CIEM cable - 26 AWG 7N Pure Cryo Stranded Silver + Copper Type 2 Litz Custom Wire
I love the dual color of the copper (2/5) together with the silver (3/5) ;)
This is a very flexible cable, simply made with no separator other than heat sink.
Everything is sold with Mundorf Supreme Silver/Gold solder. Epoxy glue is filled up in both connectors and RSA plug to increase the strength and make sure the cables do not pop out.
The rig: CLAS -dB with RSA 71b Amp and Heir Audio 4A CIEM :)
I prefer straight jacks over the L shaped. I know I could use epoxy but I prefer using the housing that comes with the jacks.
Another cable (made for a fellow head-fier CaptZ, for his AKG K501 that he will recable)
It is 14ft long, copper cable from Toxic Cables, sheathed in nylon, housing from a neutrik L jack as the y-split, also a jack from Toxic cables.
Here's a cable I made for someone to use with their B&W P7's. That 2.5mm jack was the slimmest I could find, but it's a 4 pole. It was a pain keeping it thin enough to fit into the P7's wire channel that is behind their ear pads. He sent me a template of the size the cable needs to be to still fit in there. It should be arriving at his house today so we will see if it still works. I think it should.
I had to use a grinder at my job to take the threading off the 2.5mm connector to slim it up even more. I ended up just soldering both the mic and ground soldering points to the ground wire to make sure it worked with the 2.5mm 3-pole chassis. I still have my fingers crossed.