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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 833

post #12481 of 15099

I'll post a picture later tonight. Honestly, I'm extremely confused.

post #12482 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

I'll post a picture later tonight. Honestly, I'm extremely confused.

Post it and I can tell you exactly where everything should go don't worry.  

post #12483 of 15099

Anyone have experience with this stripper? http://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-kurve-wire-stripper-cutter-150-solid-and-stranded-wire/918727

 

I went to the store today and their computer said they had them in stock, but they couldn't find them confused.gif

 

 

Random pic for the thread, some short RCAs done with magnet wire twisted together:

twisted magnet wire teflon tubing

post #12484 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Anyone have experience with this stripper? http://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-kurve-wire-stripper-cutter-150-solid-and-stranded-wire/918727

 

Ya thats the one I have.  Very well built. 

post #12485 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Anyone have experience with this stripper? http://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-kurve-wire-stripper-cutter-150-solid-and-stranded-wire/918727

 

I went to the store today and their computer said they had them in stock, but they couldn't find them confused.gif

 

 

 

As a previous Home Depot employee most associates are clueless sometimes even if you find a good one the product you need isn't where it should be.

 

Anyways I have the larger gauge version of those strippers and as long as you are careful with them they perform well. 

 

I would recommend taking 2 cuts with them, do one cut then rotate 90 degrees and do a second cut, then move down a gauge and slide the insulator off, or loosen your grip when sliding the insulator off. This prevents pulling out and cutting the individual strands.

post #12486 of 15099

Bah, guess I'll head back to the store and yell at them to sift through their boxes until they find it. The guy who helped me looked at the sheet beside the shelf and said it wasn't even listed for display confused.gif

post #12487 of 15099

I have a thought and a comment with regards to the 2.5mm connection on the cup of the Sennheiser HD-558.  I believe from seeing the headphones a few times, the jack to fit up into the opening on the cup has to be pretty slender to fit.  If not, you might be faced with having to enlarge the opening a bit to allow your new cable end to fit properly.  This is also why Sennheiser could be using a molded end on the 2.5mm cable connector as it would be much slimmer to fit up in the the opening.  Again, just a thought and wanted to give you something to think about before you build the cable and realize you have another hurdle.

post #12488 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

I have a thought and a comment with regards to the 2.5mm connection on the cup of the Sennheiser HD-558.  I believe from seeing the headphones a few times, the jack to fit up into the opening on the cup has to be pretty slender to fit.  If not, you might be faced with having to enlarge the opening a bit to allow your new cable end to fit properly.  This is also why Sennheiser could be using a molded end on the 2.5mm cable connector as it would be much slimmer to fit up in the the opening.  Again, just a thought and wanted to give you something to think about before you build the cable and realize you have another hurdle.

Its actually very, very slim. I'll post pictures of it in an hour or two.

post #12489 of 15099

 

There it is.

post #12490 of 15099

In another thread about CIEMS. It was posted that some people where interested in custom cable with an inline mute option for members of the Head-fi community with CIEMs.  

 

I've been looking at possible options/solutions that would work, but haven't found anything that I like. The idea is that they want something very fast, a quick toggle, instead of having to put out their rig and unlock it, mute it, talk, then unmute and lock again. It's not something I worry about with my particular setup, but others do. 

 

It would have to be something and light weight and sleek if possible. No one wants a huge toggle switch hanging in the middle of their cable. 

I thought about using a sub-mini switch and making a light, small wood enclosure, but that still seems ostentatious. 

 

Any ideas would be welcome. 

 

 

Side Note: going to finish my "for the lawlz" 8-braid interconnect tonight. I'll post pics when it's done to help keep the thread on topic. 

post #12491 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

 

There it is.

The shield or ground is the part with the strain relief tabs. In the little black plastic area you have Tip & Ring, the Right signal wire solders in the little space closest to the threads, Left solders in the other one.
You need a fine tip and make sure you don't hold the iron there too long as the plastic inside the jack itself will melt and deform or short.

I clamp the plug end very lightly in a metal vise, then I tin the Tip & Ring solder points. Have your wire pre measured and tinned as well, then just solder the Left and Right signal wires onto the solder points.

The vise I use acts as a heatsink while I solder, but prolonged heat will melt the plastic on the plug part. I have a pair of locking forceps that work as well.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
post #12492 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

There it is.

The shield or ground is the part with the strain relief tabs. In the little black plastic area you have Tip & Ring, the Right signal wire solders in the little space closest to the threads, Left solders in the other one.
You need a fine tip and make sure you don't hold the iron there too long as the plastic inside the jack itself will melt and deform or short.

I clamp the plug end very lightly in a metal vise, then I tin the Tip & Ring solder points. Have your wire pre measured and tinned as well, then just solder the Left and Right signal wires onto the solder points.

The vise I use acts as a heatsink while I solder, but prolonged heat will melt the plastic on the plug part. I have a pair of locking forceps that work as well.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

"Closest to the threads"? Sorry man. I'm confused with your use of words:(. Just tell me this, and I can take it from here, those 2 metal parts, surronded by black, which is the left/right?

post #12493 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

"Closest to the threads"? Sorry man. I'm confused with your use of words:(. Just tell me this, and I can take it from here, those 2 metal parts, surronded by black, which is the left/right?


Sorry don't mean to confuse, have a look at this.

post #12494 of 15099
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

"Closest to the threads"? Sorry man. I'm confused with your use of words:(. Just tell me this, and I can take it from here, those 2 metal parts, surronded by black, which is the left/right?


Sorry don't mean to confuse, have a look at this.

Thanks so much for the help man. Really appreciate it:)

post #12495 of 15099

I believe this is how the plug should be wired.  I'll look it up to confirm, too.

 

 

Edited post: Removed the image of the 2.5mm Canare TRS jack.  I don't want to provide false information on the TRS connectors.


Edited by wje - 8/2/13 at 2:08pm
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