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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 812

post #12166 of 14188

if I were to strip the conductors from a mogami w2893, what size sleeve would i need to sleeve each individual conductor so I could braid it with a 4 strand flat braid.

post #12167 of 14188

I just wanna say...

I really don't think anyone can hear the difference between copper and silver wire. If you hear a difference it's probably something other than the material (different gauge, length, sheilding, etc).  I think copper is something like 9% less conductive than silver.

post #12168 of 14188
Don't let them hear you say that in a few other forums where the cable actually has an audible direction... rolleyes.gif They are very serious about what they hear... biggrin.gif

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
post #12169 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Don't let them hear you say that in a few other forums where the cable actually has an audible direction... rolleyes.gif They are very serious about what they hear... biggrin.gif

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2


Pardon my ignorance, but what is an "audible direction?"
 

 

Some more thoughts:

- digital cables can be made out of whatever. There is no such thing as better quality 1s and 0s. Especially on short runs. I have no idea why I am seeing $500 spdif cables for sale. It makes absolutely no sense. Even if you're going to do a long run, the worst thing that will happen is packet loss, which will be recovered anyway, and instead of a 500$ cable you can probably just buy some decent cable and a couple ferrite beads for like 30$. I think people need to be aware that there's a lot of snake oil out there.

 

For me, a DIY cable that costs 100$ in material would not be for better sound, but just something that looks beautiful and will last forever. there's something nice about things that are made better than they need to be made. That being said, If you are about to pull the trigger on a $200 cable but there is literally anything else in your entire signal chain you could stand to spend money it - it's probably a better choice than the cable. I estimate even spikes would make more of a difference than a cable (assuming the stock cable is not, for some reason, the cheapest thing ever conceived since the dawn of man).

I'll close with this little gem (pun intended):

http://www.machinadynamica.com/machina31.htm


Edited by pixeltarian - 6/25/13 at 9:53pm
post #12170 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixeltarian View Post

I just wanna say...

I really don't think anyone can hear the difference between copper and silver wire. If you hear a difference it's probably something other than the material (different gauge, length, sheilding, etc).  I think copper is something like 9% less conductive than silver.

 

Different impedance will lead to volume mismatch and potential frequency changes if the drivers do not have a flat impedance curve. Capacitance in the cables can also cause rolloff. Crosstalk may also be affected. And the difference is more like 5% between silver and copper. 

 

Whether any of this is audible... *shrug*

 

I've done some trials with silver vs copper vs steel cables. At first I was able to reliably differentiate steel, but once I realized that the higher impedance wire was causing a volume drop I fixed my levels and after that I couldn't tell the difference. 


Edited by Armaegis - 6/25/13 at 10:04pm
post #12171 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

 

Different impedance will lead to volume mismatch and potential frequency changes if the drivers do not have a flat impedance curve. Capacitance in the cables can also cause rolloff. Crosstalk may also be an issue, but likely not an audible one. 

 

And the difference is more like 5% between silver and copper. 


I want to coin the phrase "If it ain't audible, it ain't an issue."

volume mismatch? what is it mismatching? You mean as per channel? If so, that shouldn't happen if both channels have the same construction. If the entire signal is "mismatched" there's always a volume knob? I don't think being at perfect unity gain is important in the arena of listening to music. Unless I'm not understanding you properly.

 

If a 200 million dollar recording studio captures sounds using an XLR that consists of 2 neutriks $4 a pop, and a cable that costs 50 cents per foot, I don't see any reason to buy an XLR connector that costs 50 bucks a pop, and cable that costs $4 per foot. Studios spare no expense. If it made an impact - we'd see these insanely expensive cables in recording studios. Even the engineer who is mixing the song is listening on run-of-the-mill neutrik+belden balanced cables. Does anyone believe he/she is missing out because there is copper in those cables instead of silver?

If you have thousands of dollars to spend on interconnect cables and that's what you want to do - more power to you. However, if a difference exists... again it's so slight that you'd have to have very good ears, be listening for the difference, and in some sort of Ninjutsu focusing trance to detect it. If you hear a difference in a big way, I'd say there was something wrong with the old cables, or it's your mind wanting to validate the need to buy expensive cables. To me it would make more sense to buy pure silver connectors and replace them every week than to get a non corrosive gold connector that is %35(ish) less conductive than silver. I mean it wouldn't really make sense, but it would make MORE sense than a $700 interconnect. 


Edited by pixeltarian - 6/25/13 at 10:23pm
post #12172 of 14188

Not to rain on the parade, but there are plenty of sections in the sound science area to discuss whether or not your cable can produce double rainbows or not. 

 

We wouldn't want our precious thread to get hammered. 

post #12173 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixeltarian View Post


volume mismatch? what is it mismatching? You mean as per channel? 

 

 

The steel cable had a significantly higher impedance compared to the copper and silver, which resulted in the steel cable being slightly quieter when swapping around and creating a perceived difference in sound. Once I volume matched, I could no longer reliably tell the difference.

 

The copper vs steel had no difference in produced volume, and I was not able to tell them apart. 

post #12174 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post

Not to rain on the parade, but there are plenty of sections in the sound science area to discuss whether or not your cable can produce double rainbows or not. 

 

We wouldn't want our precious thread to get hammered. 

 


I was just kinda worried about anyone who might think about building a cable before spending the money on something that would make more of an impact.

 

You are right though. Commencing shutting up.

post #12175 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixeltarian View Post

I don't see anything for Yarbo one way or the other.

 

Second thing's second. Anyone know of a good place to buy twisted headphone wire with braided jacket?

If I were to braid my own wire, I only need 3 wires, correct? and what awg is best for headphones?

I'm going to be modding my MDR-7506 cans to have  a headphone jack and a couple cable lengths to plug into it, depending on what I'm doing.

 

I'm not sure the retention screw for a panel mount jack will fit where the cable out is I think maybe the "Philmore 504kb" is possibly the smallest/best candidate . Maybe it's time to try sugru...

 

I would use 4 wires to braid your own.  That way you have a ground wire for both channels (even if they are soldered together on both ends).

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdogw View Post

if I were to strip the conductors from a mogami w2893, what size sleeve would i need to sleeve each individual conductor so I could braid it with a 4 strand flat braid.

 

Depends on what you wanted to sleeve it with.  Type I Paracord works nicely for those wires (I just used some and the wires from some w2893 for a project, easy to sleeve if you're patient).

post #12176 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidzoo View Post

 

Depends on what you wanted to sleeve it with.  Type I Paracord works nicely for those wires (I just used some and the wires from some w2893 for a project, easy to sleeve if you're patient).

I was going to sleeve it with techflex so that all my stuff will be coming from markertek. I cant find paracord from markertek.

post #12177 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdogw View Post

I was going to sleeve it with techflex so that all my stuff will be coming from markertek. I cant find paracord from markertek.

Type 1 Paracord is 1/16" in diameter, if that helps.

 

Techflex might be a bit microphonic, I'm not sure.  I've only ever used it on interconnects and not on headphone cord for myself.  I did use it over a braid on some headphones I fixed for my son and he hasn't complained; but he's also 10 and might not know that something was wrong.

 

It might be cheaper to order from Supply Captain from the link I posted above.  They're super fast for shipping (even when the item is out of stock, I've never waited more than 3 days before my item shipped, and never more than a week before it was in my hands).  The closest Techflex I could see at Markertek you would have to buy in 100 ft spools for almost $30 (vs $8 for 100 ft of type 1 paracord from the link above, and there are a LOT more color choices in Paracord).

post #12178 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdogw View Post

I was going to sleeve it with techflex so that all my stuff will be coming from markertek. I cant find paracord from markertek.

If you want to sleeve individual wires, your only real option is type 1 microparacord from supplycaptain.com or 5staredc on ebay.  I have tried the individual sleeving with the smallest diameter techflex and it was stiff, thick, and awful feeling.  This was just on an interconnect.  Wouldn't touch it for a headphone cable.  I dislike techflex very much as an outer sleeving on headphone cables.  It is quite useful to give body to a wire, however.  Some rounded techflex over a starquad, then covered with something nicer like nylon multifilament works very nicely to even out the shape of a cable.

post #12179 of 14188

I recently bought the vsonic VSD1 and the best way to wear the is over the earpiece in the right ear and the right earpiece in the left ear. Now i am looking for some kind of plug/adaptar to swaps the channels. If it does not exists can i make it myself? 

 

I was thinking of using a male 3,5 mm and a female 3,5 and connect them in a way that it will change the left and right channel. Only problem is how to i know wich one is left or right at the female plug.

post #12180 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by PakoBoy View Post

I recently bought the vsonic VSD1 and the best way to wear the is over the earpiece in the right ear and the right earpiece in the left ear. Now i am looking for some kind of plug/adaptar to swaps the channels. If it does not exists can i make it myself? 

 

I was thinking of using a male 3,5 mm and a female 3,5 and connect them in a way that it will change the left and right channel. Only problem is how to i know wich one is left or right at the female plug.

Typically:

 

Tip - Left

Ring - Right

Sleeve - Ground

 

So, you would wire your female to male:

 

Female Tip to Male Ring

Female Ring to Male Tip

Sleeve to Sleeve

 

Typically the tip is the farthest forward solder point on the internals of the connector.  On most you can tell that it's connected to the center of the plug.

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