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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 794

post #11896 of 14144
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad and Quiet View Post

 

 

Nice! You can buy them somewhere?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Netforce View Post

http://www.yewaudio.com/apps/webstore/

 

Looks amazing smily_headphones1.gif

 

Yup, exactly.

 

I actually bought the wood blanks myself and sent them to Clint.  He turned them and got them back to me (I actually had the amazing luck of going from pen blanks to connectors in less than a week, though I imagine that's not common at all).

 

I picked out the ones I wanted from here:  http://www.woodturningz.com/Wood_Pen_Blanks.aspx

 

Ended up sending 5 blanks to him, though I'm not sure how many he used.  I told him to keep whatever he didn't use.  Picking out the right wood was definitely half the fun.  Made sure I got exactly what I wanted.

post #11897 of 14144
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidzoo View Post

I picked out the ones I wanted from here:  http://www.woodturningz.com/Wood_Pen_Blanks.aspx

 

Ended up sending 5 blanks to him, though I'm not sure how many he used.  I told him to keep whatever he didn't use.  Picking out the right wood was definitely half the fun.  Made sure I got exactly what I wanted.

 

Maker's Mark Barrel Blanks! Nice...

beerchug.gif

post #11898 of 14144

Those yew audio wooden plugs and y splitters look amazing.  Sooo, I saw some paracord at walmart on sale for $1, so I figured I'd resleeve my DIY Scorpion cable.  It was a royal pain, this was also my first time using paracord.  I ended up having to unbraid my 4 wire cable, and the 4 wires unbraided barely fit in the 550 paracord...don't know if it was because it was walmart $1 paracord or what lol.  I had the whole thing sleeved but the part where it splits into 2 wires looked too small so I unsoldered it again, and took the sleeving off.  I had some micro black paracord, but no way the wire was going to go through the sleeve.  At any rate this gave me a little practice for when I get my D7000.

 

post #11899 of 14144

Looks good.

 

My plan is to sleeve individual wires with Type 1 Paracord (Accessory Cord), then do a 4 wire braid.  Based on some quick measurements, it should just fit into the connector housing (which I had Clint drill out a bit).

 

I'd love to try an 8 wire braid to keep the same number of wires when I redo my Grados, but I have no idea how, and I know that the wires wouldn't fit in the connector if they are sleeved.

post #11900 of 14144

Moon Audio Black Dragon 12' headphone extension

Neutrik locking jack - Viablue 1/4" plug

Now I can sit on the couch!

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8726765056/

 

Double Helix Nucleotide RCA splitter

Switchcraft plugs n jacks

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8725645373/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8726765404/

 

Grado SR225 Cable Moon Audio Blue Dragon

Viablue 1/4" - Clear heatshrink

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8725645837/

 

Nucleotide Interconnects

Viablue Solderless RCA's

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8617361703/

 

Had a big problem (blew a speaker driver) with the solderless rca's and I was hoping

someone might have some pointers on how to properly ground

these plugs.  The signal conductor has a nice set screw that

creates a solid connection.  The ground on the other hand...

well I'm kind of at a loss... any recommendations?  The pic

below illustrates how the plug has slits for grounding... I'm

just not sure how to create a solid connection in them with

small wire like the nucleotide.  Help!
 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8726765280/

post #11901 of 14144
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidzoo View Post

Looks good.

 

My plan is to sleeve individual wires with Type 1 Paracord (Accessory Cord), then do a 4 wire braid.  Based on some quick measurements, it should just fit into the connector housing (which I had Clint drill out a bit).

 

I'd love to try an 8 wire braid to keep the same number of wires when I redo my Grados, but I have no idea how, and I know that the wires wouldn't fit in the connector if they are sleeved.

 

8 will fit if you drill out the of the connector enough.  You could also cut the connector shell just short of the threads to have something to attach the wood sleeve to if that is easier for you. 

post #11902 of 14144
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

 

8 will fit if you drill out the of the connector enough.  You could also cut the connector shell just short of the threads to have something to attach the wood sleeve to if that is easier for you. 

The shell is already glued into the sleeve.

 

I'm sure 8 would fit if they weren't sleeved, so that may be the way I go.  It all depends on if I want to keep the 8 strand core when I make the cable removable, which as of right now is my goal.

post #11903 of 14144
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbeers View Post

Moon Audio Black Dragon 12' headphone extension

Neutrik locking jack - Viablue 1/4" plug

Now I can sit on the couch!

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8726765056/

 

Double Helix Nucleotide RCA splitter

Switchcraft plugs n jacks

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8725645373/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8726765404/

 

Grado SR225 Cable Moon Audio Blue Dragon

Viablue 1/4" - Clear heatshrink

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8725645837/

 

Nucleotide Interconnects

Viablue Solderless RCA's

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8617361703/

 

Had a big problem (blew a speaker driver) with the solderless rca's and I was hoping

someone might have some pointers on how to properly ground

these plugs.  The signal conductor has a nice set screw that

creates a solid connection.  The ground on the other hand...

well I'm kind of at a loss... any recommendations?  The pic

below illustrates how the plug has slits for grounding... I'm

just not sure how to create a solid connection in them with

small wire like the nucleotide.  Help!
 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93185688@N04/8726765280/

Solder to the body of the plug.  Takes a lot of heat though, so preheat and add solder to the body and touch the Nucleotide when you have everything hot enough.  If you are dextrous and careful enough, you can bend one of the body ribs down a little bit to create a dent to solder to.  It won't take as much heat since it is a slimmer piece of metal.

post #11904 of 14144

hey fraggler thanks for the info - was hoping to avoid solder since the

solderless idea does sound cool for swapping cables / sleeves etc... but

it was def something I was considering.  Are these types of solderless

plugs meant for coax cable?  Just bend the shield back and maybe

it would make a more solid ground connection?  I'd be more willing to

go the coax route with these plugs if that would improve the situation as

opposed to soldering... whatchya think?  Whats the best technique for

making a solid ground with the coax if thats what its meant for?  Thnx again

I appreciate your help!
 

post #11905 of 14144
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbeers View Post

hey fraggler thanks for the info - was hoping to avoid solder since the

solderless idea does sound cool for swapping cables / sleeves etc... but

it was def something I was considering.  Are these types of solderless

plugs meant for coax cable?  Just bend the shield back and maybe

it would make a more solid ground connection?  I'd be more willing to

go the coax route with these plugs if that would improve the situation as

opposed to soldering... whatchya think?  Whats the best technique for

making a solid ground with the coax if thats what its meant for?  Thnx again

I appreciate your help!
 

If you use coax connectors and coax cable, then you shouldn't have to worry too much.  I haven't looked much into solderless designs, but there should be some that also have a solderless spot for ground if you would like to stick with braided cables.  To be honest, I am surprised Viablue didn't give you a place to ground unless they were intended for coax cable that was thick.  If you want to stick to OCC wire, but are going coax, Neotech makes some good looking cable for pretty reasonable prices.  Neotech makes a lot of the wires you see available for DIY cable makers.

 

One option you could try is to strip more of the insulation off and wrap the ground wire around one of the ribs.  Maybe a touch of hotglue to secure it a little, but is still removeable if needed. 

post #11906 of 14144

8 wire Toxic Cables hybrid cable #2, the flat braid annoyed me, so I went with the 4 wire round braid, but just kept 2 wires in each braid.  It's a lot more flexible and doesn't look too terrible.  

 

 

post #11907 of 14144

New cable for the Mad Dogs. Neutrik connectors and copper cable from BTG-Audio. 

 

 

post #11908 of 14144

I was curious if someone could give me a good recommendation on some wire for a specific purpose. I'm looking to make another cable for my LP2s specifically for DJing. I Need a recommendation on something that is SUPER flexible AND cheap. Since I'm not looking to do any critical listening I just need some guidance on wire that is more flexible then audiophile friendly. What do you guys think?

post #11909 of 14144
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

Terrible cellphone picture of an example of using a barrel from a 3.5mm plug for a Y split cover:

 

 


This is a very nice looking cable.

I just have one more question about the Y-splitter:

 

How can I get it fix on the cable buy using some nice 3.5 mm jack shell.

I have done my sleeve my headphone end and now I have join my 2 cables together. Is there any good instructions on how to do the Y split in a nice looking way?

 

Thanks

post #11910 of 14144

Anyone have any tricks on sleeving something like Canare L-4E5C (the 4 cores, anyway) with type 1 paracord?  I was trying to sleeve some 5 foot lengths over the weekend and I could get it most of the way on before it started snagging.

 

Maybe I should use the 26AWG Mogami W2893 instead.  The smaller diameter might help.

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