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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 791

post #11851 of 14057

No problem, there you go, have fun!

 

Here is the 4 strand braid technique.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLjs_MeGNpo

 

Here is the 8 strands braid round. Actually really easy because the lenght was less than 2 meters!

Splitting in two 4 strand braid braid like the above link and my HD650 cord.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfFM_NJzg-g

 

it's my interconnect for my Meridian explorer. I know it's not shielded, but its really short.

post #11852 of 14057

Ty  telecaster

One last question,when you twist 2 wires how do you make them stay that way ?

In short,what is the technique for twisting wires?

ty in advance! :)

post #11853 of 14057
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMessiaH View Post

One last question,when you twist 2 wires how do you make them stay that way ?

 

Avoid rotating the wires on their axis when you twist them around each other. If you rotate them towards each other, the cable will try to kink up, if you rotate them away from each other (which is what usually happens, eg, if you were to pinch the ends of the wire between thumb and forefinger and twist your wrist) the cable will try to unwind.

post #11854 of 14057
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardgedee View Post

 

Avoid rotating the wires on their axis when you twist them around each other. If you rotate them towards each other, the cable will try to kink up, if you rotate them away from each other (which is what usually happens, eg, if you were to pinch the ends of the wire between thumb and forefinger and twist your wrist) the cable will try to unwind.

so what,i just grab bout wires whit some ting and twist?

 

p.s. sorry my english isn't exactly  perfect :)


Edited by MetalMessiaH - 5/1/13 at 7:22am
post #11855 of 14057

I use a 22 AWG wire litz copper. It is very supple and keep shape kind of easily. When I do my braid, you will feel the stiffness of your braiding technique. I advise you try it on a short cable sample as I did. That way I easily saw that I prefer the 4 strand to the 8 for my headphone cable. Also for my headphone I didn't braid as tight as on my interconnect because I wanted a looser feel.

The answer is you will feel it and you will have to tight your braid.

 

I haven't rotate anything it's useless. Just braid along and you will see for yourself.

 

Those are my first two cable braided ever! It's not difficult, well except the horrid 4 meter long braid which is a night mare!


Edited by telecaster - 5/1/13 at 8:31am
post #11856 of 14057

I am new to the this community and trying to make an balance cable for my HD800 headphones for my upcoming HDVD800 amps. So, it has be to 4-pin xlr, and I do not want to re-terminate my stock cables.

 

I have already got the HD800 connectors and been tested working with 26AWG wires. I also got the 4-pin xlr connectors. I have decided using normal dual 2-pair silver painted OF copper wires since I am not a strong believer of cables.(I do not have super expensive headphones with super expensive amps as well as super expensive power and interconnects cable. And no I do not have -80dB gold ears, so I normally cannot hear the sonic difference as a direct result of changing wires.)  Here are some problems  I am facing and hoping to get some help:

 

1. What is the good heat shrink for the terminator side?

2. What things should I considered when I am picking the the sleeves a part from cool looking. (factory spec wise)

3. Viablue is too big for headphone cable Y-splitter, is there any other sub-20 dollar cool looking ones on the market? (heat shrink seems to be a bit too simple looking~~)

 

 

Thanks for your help, much appreciate

post #11857 of 14057
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanHell View Post

I am new to the this community and trying to make an balance cable for my HD800 headphones for my upcoming HDVD800 amps. So, it has be to 4-pin xlr, and I do not want to re-terminate my stock cables.

 

I have already got the HD800 connectors and been tested working with 26AWG wires. I also got the 4-pin xlr connectors. I have decided using normal dual 2-pair silver painted OF copper wires since I am not a strong believer of cables.(I do not have super expensive headphones with super expensive amps as well as super expensive power and interconnects cable. And no I do not have -80dB gold ears, so I normally cannot hear the sonic difference as a direct result of changing wires.)  Here are some problems  I am facing and hoping to get some help:

 

1. What is the good heat shrink for the terminator side?

2. What things should I considered when I am picking the the sleeves a part from cool looking. (factory spec wise)

3. Viablue is too big for headphone cable Y-splitter, is there any other sub-20 dollar cool looking ones on the market? (heat shrink seems to be a bit too simple looking~~)

 

 

Thanks for your help, much appreciate

 

1.  I like 3 to 1 ratio heatshrink as it gives you more range of use and is a little stiffer and more durable when shrunk.  Some 3/8" 3 to 1 heatshrink should work well.  If you have access to it, you can also use a little hot glue to seal the back of the HD800 for added strain relief.  Depending on which XLR you got, you may not need any heatshrink other than for aesthetic value.

2.  You want something soft and quiet so that when you move around or the cable brushes against things, you don't pick up mechanical noise.  The silve plated wire is probably in teflon or kapton which will be prone to picking up noise.  Nylon multifilament will be ideal.  

3.  Depending on how thick your wires are, you can check out qables.com for their Y-splits.  Other than that you can use the barrels of other connectors, beads, etc.  

post #11858 of 14057
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

1.  I like 3 to 1 ratio heatshrink as it gives you more range of use and is a little stiffer and more durable when shrunk.  Some 3/8" 3 to 1 heatshrink should work well.  If you have access to it, you can also use a little hot glue to seal the back of the HD800 for added strain relief.  Depending on which XLR you got, you may not need any heatshrink other than for aesthetic value.
2.  You want something soft and quiet so that when you move around or the cable brushes against things, you don't pick up mechanical noise.  The silve plated wire is probably in teflon or kapton which will be prone to picking up noise.  Nylon multifilament will be ideal.  
3.  Depending on how thick your wires are, you can check out qables.com for their Y-splits.  Other than that you can use the barrels of other connectors, beads, etc.  

What size nylon multifilament do you usually use?

Also, I've seen beads used but honestly I'm missing exactly how it works as a splitter since it's a single hole, please expound.
post #11859 of 14057
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post


What size nylon multifilament do you usually use?

Also, I've seen beads used but honestly I'm missing exactly how it works as a splitter since it's a single hole, please expound.

Depends on the wire, how many wires, type of braid.  3/16" goes over the standard 24awg in polyethylene wires from Doublehelixcables, Toxic Cables, Plussounds, etc.  Should handle any 4 wire round braid in that gauge.

 

Most of the options aren't a true splitter in the sense that they go one hole to two.  More just to keep the split tidy.  I typically just use some heatshrink.

 

I forgot to add that if you want a wooden Y split cover, check out Yew Audio.  

post #11860 of 14057

Terrible cellphone picture of an example of using a barrel from a 3.5mm plug for a Y split cover:

 

 

post #11861 of 14057
Nice Fraggler looks classy!
post #11862 of 14057
Quote:
Originally Posted by telecaster View Post

I'll post pictures when I'm home guys. The hassle is when the the long wires get entangled... I don't how it is with your wire but with mine it was a nightmare To free the nods. Also I lost track several times and to find back your pattern one has to explodes his brain!

actually I wanted to make the 8 strands round spiral pattern but when I tried it it was too stiff for my taste and the four strand didn't fit te tiny cardas hd650 plugs.

 

I put the coil of each individual strand in a small ziplock bag (e.g 4, or 8 bags), rather than keeping them loose. So I don't have to deal with the ends. Just feed out a foot or so, shuffle the bags around, and repeat. 

post #11863 of 14057

post #11864 of 14057
I've searched here and can't seem to find a solution, so I am just going to ask for recomendations from those in the know!
 
The stock cable on my Ultrasones was the most annoying cable I have ever seen on a headphone. The bends where they fold it back and forth on itself for packaging will not come out, no how no way.
 
It's annoying like those cheap Yellow / Orange AC extension cords, the ones that are really nice when you first get them but after a couple of weeks use they get all twisted up under the jacket and are impossible to use or unwind. You just need to take a hatchet and chop them up into tiny little pieces to vent your frustration, which I have done in the past. angry_face.gif
 
I have since removed the cable from my Ultrasones and have replaced it with a 3.5mm socket which works great with any mini to mini cable.
I would like to convert my DT880's to a mini xlr with the socket in the cup itself, all of that part is no problem, I am now in search of a good wire to use.
 
Since I live in Eastern Canada local wire shops are few and far between, the only one I know of here is Anixter which carries a Belden Star Quad, but I have not been there to look at this wire or any other type they might have. (Is anyone familiar with the Belden wire?) 
 
Since there are so many choices of wire and insulation type, I'll get right to the point of what I am looking for.
 
Flexibility is my main criteria, I would like this cable to act like a piece of cotton cord or heavy string. I know it can not have the exact same physics as cotton cord does but I'd like to get as close to that as possible. (falls straight with very little memory)
 
1. What AWG and strand count would you suggest is the most flexible?
2. Does silver plated copper or just regular copper make any difference? (Only to do with flexibility, nothing about the sound.)
3. What type of insulation is the most flexible?
 
My old Sony headphones had this nylon type sheathing over a rubber core that had flat enameled wire that was woven with fibers, you know the copper / red /green stuff all twisted together.
I don't know what that wire is called, but is that wire available and would it be a better choice even though it would have to be sheathed?
 
In the end I would like to have a 4 wire loose braid to the mini XLR jack, so if I can find a wire with a black or clear insulation that would be perfect and I would not have to sheath them.
 
4. Does the sheathing type aid or hinder with flexibility? If so what is the most flexible type of sheath to use?
 
Sorry for the winded post with too many questions, but I have searched and can't seem to find a solution. If I am "Out to Lunch" with my expectations then please let me know. redface.gif
 
Thanks for taking the time to read through this and for any recomendations you all might have.
beerchug.gif
post #11865 of 14057

I'm actually going to be doing something similar to my DT770s here in the next few weeks (I hope, depends on when I get the plugs in).

 

I'm going to be using Canare star quad, stripped down to the 4 inner cores (which I think are 23 AWG, probably not the best wire to use) and sleeved with Type 1 paracord.

 

If I decide that the Canare is too big, I'll buy some Mogami W2893 (26 AWG cores).

 

I would stay around 26 AWG for the wires.  That seems to be the most commonly recommended AWG.

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