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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 787

post #11791 of 13940
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdogw View Post

Do any of you know a good place to learn how to make cables? Like a guide of some sort? Also if any of you can point me in the right direction, I want to recable my superlux hd681 but have no idea how to choose cables or anything.

 

You can check the wiki section for help on different connectors and terminating them.  While this thread is SUPPOSED TO BE A GALLERY, it is chock full of people sharing how they built stuff.  I know it takes a while, but if you search for what you want to know, you will find enough info to make your headspin (and to make a great cable).  It is better to do it this way because if you just follow the advice of just one or two people, you will end up with a cable that they like, and not necessarily what you like.  Take the time to learn and enjoy the process.

 

To help you out just a little bit, avoid teflon wires if you want to avoid a stiff cable that picks up mechanical noise easily.  Silver plated copper is great if you can find it in polyethylene, but otherwise is better off in interconnects and internal wiring.  Stick to gauges between 22 and 28, with 26 and 24 being the most commonly used.  Mogami or Canare wires stripped out of their starquad cables are great starter wires available at very reasonable costs.  Beyond that, you have BTG Audio (Mogami wire), and then a whole slew of guys that have nice OCC wire in multiple configurations:  Doublehelix Cables, Toxic Cables, Plussounds, etc.  Personally, I think Jena wire and ALO wires are ridiculously overpriced and should be avoided unless you really want to hook up 18ga wires to your headphones.  Personally, I would focus more on making a good looking cable with the ergonomics that you want, especially considering the headphone ($300 worth of silver won't turn your headphones into something they are not).

 

I have posted links to braiding techniques multiple times, you should be able to find them pretty easily.  

 

Good luck, have fun, and post pictures.

post #11792 of 13940
Quote:
Originally Posted by cssarrow View Post

Very nice Kama, proud of you.

Thank you. Next in line is a mini to mini interconnect with much nicer cable.
post #11793 of 13940

I have this terrible habit of forgetting to put on the strain relief before soldering my cables. Then I have to go and desolder the ends to put the relief on.So today I was making a speaker banana to XLR4 adapter, constantly telling myself to not forget the strain relief. Cut up the wires, sleeved them, stripped, tinned, blah blah blah. Put the strain relief on, did a braid, soldered them up, beautiful!

 

Checked all the connections on my multimeter; good to go. Took my work upstairs and plugged it into the amp, tried to plug in my headphone... well that's odd, the barrels don't fit. Did I use the wrong barrel? or did I not seat it in far enough? Did I...

 

Oh sunova...

 

I've got an XLR male on the end. *headdesk*

post #11794 of 13940
Quote:
Originally Posted by cssarrow View Post

http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2012/11/pure-silver-mini-to-mini-cable.html

 

Great, can't wait to see your work.

Know what parts you are going to use yet?

 

Yes. I'm going to stick with the neutrik connectors; One right-angled and one regular since I have them on hand already.  I am considering using some Viablue connectors, but we'll see. 

 

The cable i'll be using is from PlusSound audio in Los Angeles. They have a newer DIY copper cable with 75 strands. I ordered some with blue teflon and some with red. Going to do a quad braid with the new colors. Hopefully it looks as good as I picture it in my head. 

 

I was going to use pure silver wire but I thought I might as well get some more practice first and to be totally honest I really wanted the color wires.  L3000.gif

post #11795 of 13940

So I bought Nylon Multifiliment sleeving, but I can't get my ********* wire into it, and its getting on my nerves. The wire keeps getting like stuck I guess. I haven't been able to get it all the way through yet, and its been like 30 minutes. Any ideas?
 

post #11796 of 13940

A while back I started using mico paracord, and ran into the same problem. What I do is sand the end of the wire down with a sanding sponge (sandpaper would work as well) to get rid of the wire sticking out past the insulation. I also sand around the edges of the insulation so it will slide through smoothly, but I find that the biggest problem is the wire strands that catch on the soft nylon, so be sure to sand them down flush with the insulation.


Edited by funch - 4/18/13 at 4:32pm
post #11797 of 13940
Make the end of your wire round so it won't catch. Tape, fold it over, heatshrink etc...

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post #11798 of 13940
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchGFX View Post

So I bought Nylon Multifiliment sleeving, but I can't get my ********* wire into it, and its getting on my nerves. The wire keeps getting like stuck I guess. I haven't been able to get it all the way through yet, and its been like 30 minutes. Any ideas?
 

Hold the end of the wire that inside the sleeve, about 4" from the tip, then then push the wire while at the same time pulling the sleeve over the wire, if that makes sense.

http://www.toxic-cables.co.uk                  PREPARE TO BE INTOXICATED

 

 

Reply
post #11799 of 13940

Check this:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdckzRWFijM

 

Around 9:45 into the video he goes over a good method for sleeving.  Note this is for PC power wires, but the principle should be the same.

post #11800 of 13940

The best thing can be to fold the tip of the wire over double so the strands don't catch. If the sleeve is too snug for that, wrap the tip of wire in some plumber's teflon tape (which should be a standard part of your toolkit anyway). If you're pushing a few strands through the same sleeve, teflon tape is a good way to keep them together, too.

post #11801 of 13940
I ended up doing what I did with The poly techflex, kinda like what toxic said, thanks for help all smily_headphones1.gif and pardon my French
post #11802 of 13940
Quote:
Originally Posted by funch View Post

A while back I started using mico paracord, and ran into the same problem. What I do is sand the end of the wire down with a sanding sponge (sandpaper would work as well) to get rid of the wire sticking out past the insulation. I also sand around the edges of the insulation so it will slide through smoothly, but I find that the biggest problem is the wire strands that catch on the soft nylon, so be sure to sand them down flush with the insulation.

 

I went to the hardware store and picked up some 18 gauge bare solid copper wire, fairly stiff so 18 gauge.  I cut six to eight inches, strip the wire and tin, then solder the 18 gauge wire to the wire you want to sleeve.  I use a hemostat in my vise to hold the copper wire, or you could use you spare hands.  Trick is to use just a little solder and liquid flux, used for stained glass.  If you keep it aligned until cold just make sure theri are no sharp edges to the wire, if you did a good job tinning both the wire and the solid copper, and no solder blobs, you can use that to feed the sleeving on the wire!  Takes a little practice........if you have a rough cut on the 18 ga, just sand it smooth on the end.

 

Hope this helps! 

post #11803 of 13940

I just got my Toxic Cables wire in today, and I got off early so I made this cable.  Yes it is the lowly Creative Arvana Live, but for around $50 for the can, and $50 worth of cable I made today it sounds fantastic-very Denon D2000 like. Toxic Cables 24AWG, 6 feet.  I love the Toxic Cables wire, especially the Scorpion.  Think I'll make a custom cable for my TF10 next..

 

 

 


Edited by KimChee - 4/18/13 at 6:30pm
post #11804 of 13940

 

Sony XBA 4 Recable

 

Cardas 4x24 awg Cable

Vermouth Rhodium 3.5 Plug

75 Ohm Dale Resistor for Impedance

6mm clear heatshrink for the plug

4mm clear heatshrink for 4 twist cables

3mm clear heatshrink for 2 twist cables


Edited by audiofreakie - 4/18/13 at 10:32pm
post #11805 of 13940
I am going to attempt to make a LOD for a DIYmod, but had a quick Q. In terms of soldering the cap to the connector pins, does the positive lead go there and the negative lead to the wires which eventually terminate at the 3.5 mm jack? Any help would be greatly appreciated smily_headphones1.gif
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